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  #1  
Old 10-09-2012, 12:00 PM
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Car wanders slightly while driving

Hi guys,

What can cause a W124 to wander just slightly when driving straight at about say 60 mph, I can feel the slight tug in the steering wheel as the car wanders.

Currently I have all 3 new tie rods and a refurbed idler arm. All is tight - I have lmforder BJs in a box that I need to install as I can hear them creak sometimes. Looking for the tool or going to ask a machine shop to make me some adapters from pieces of pipe. Or if anyone here has something fabbed up I'll be willing to buy/borrow

In the rear I pried the links and only the upper link that points to the centre of the car slightly gave way, I looked at the subframe bushing washers and they are not touching the frame but If I use a long lever I can move the subframe downwards a little. There is no tire wear in the rear though.

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  #2  
Old 10-09-2012, 12:25 PM
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My 201 had a lot of front end "suggestibility" on the freeway until I had the front lower control arms replaced. My old arms bushings were rough. I would suggest thats probably your next step. Either replace the arms or the bushings. I did the arms because I got new metal, new bushings and a new ball joints. It was about $150 per arm plus $140 to install each.
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  #3  
Old 10-09-2012, 12:36 PM
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Hi Zulfi,

Ordinarily I'd say that the rear links were getting worn, but when I had that I did not feel any front wheel tugging. I replaced a single rear link (wish I had the part number, but it was the easiest to get to) and that helped a lot.

I also got improved stability after changing rear diff mounts. That was done by my indy, not me.

Rgds,
Chris W.
'95 E300D, 378K
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  #4  
Old 10-09-2012, 01:00 PM
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The tug I say is not a yank or pull, its the little inputs from the road wheels that you can feel in the steering as the steering in a 124 has 1 inch (measured at rim) freeplay in it. The slight input bumps are felt from right to left while the car wanders very slightly if you hold the wheel in the freeplay zone.

Almost as if the wheels are going left and right on their own. I still remain in lane though. The car gets planted solid on the road when I turn into a bend.

I did once try to wrestle the LCA bushings with a long bar when I had the oil changed at a shop (I had a bad back) - they refused to move.
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  #5  
Old 10-09-2012, 02:04 PM
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How many miles are on the car?

Mine was a more distinct pull. When a semi truck would come a rumbling down the lane next to me I would have to correct the steering as the wind would whip the 190.

I still vote control arm bushings or possibly ball joints.
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  #6  
Old 10-09-2012, 02:08 PM
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118,000 miles

The tie rods I replaced were genuine MB star marked parts - they had completely rotted out boots, the BJs also have rotted boots hence now worn out. Good thing this site sells em for 18 a pop (genuine lemforder)

gonna change out the ball joints - then check
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  #7  
Old 10-09-2012, 02:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zulfiqar View Post
118,000 miles

The tie rods I replaced were genuine MB star marked parts - they had completely rotted out boots, the BJs also have rotted boots hence now worn out. Good thing this site sells em for 18 a pop (genuine lemforder)

gonna change out the ball joints - then check
Hmm, my 190E had 230k on it. I'm not exactly sure of the life span of a control arm bushing. You could be entirely right, it could be the ball joints.

You car is almost 20 years old though, the rubber might not be doing so well.
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82 300SD 145k
89 420SEL 210k
89 560SEL 118k
90 300SE 262k RIP 5/25/2010
90 560SEL 154k
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  #8  
Old 10-09-2012, 02:17 PM
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Do you think the way I checked the bushings were correct, I literally yanked the prybar lodged behind the control arm and the arm would not budge, As it Im trying to move steel.
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  #9  
Old 10-09-2012, 10:28 PM
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mine is doing this exact same thing...
I'm now thinking it's in the steering box. it feels like slight play in the center of the steering. so either it's gearbox play or steering shaft rag joint damage...
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  #10  
Old 10-09-2012, 11:35 PM
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Number one cause of drifting/pulling are TIRES. I have encountered this many times. My 2001 Mustang used to wander and follow ruts in the road with General G-Max tires and this went totally away with the Dunlop Direzza's I had installed.

My 1978 300SD wandered a little with P205/60R14 Dunlop Citations, with a distinct pull to the right, which I could reverse by swapping the front tires left to right.

The wander stopped when I put the P215/60/14 Hankook Optimos on the car....Robert
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  #11  
Old 10-10-2012, 01:32 AM
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Prying on the rear links doesn't tell you anything. You can't replicate the road force and weight of the car on those links. So if you can move a link with a prybar, imagine how bad it is while driving?

But, if you can move the subframe down with a pry bar, your rear subframe bushings are toast. The ones in front of the wheel are the only ones that typically need replacement.

I'm chasing some suspension gremlins on my W124. Currently I have the same wander/drift and feeling of the front tires moving slightly with no input but the car is going straight. I have a firmer suspension with wide tires, so worn parts are way more pronounced.

I've replaced the following:

Eibach Springs
Bilstein Shocks
Tie rods, dampener
Front sway bar from TE and new bushings
Rear subframe bushings
Rear multi-links
New tires as of a few weeks ago

I feel like I still need to replace the following. Which is everything. So it damn well better drive PERFECT.

Idler arm bushing
Front control arm bushings and ball joints
Rear lower control arm bushings, and bushing in rear knuckle.

I found a picture from when I did my rear subframe bushings. This is what I saw when I took them out. A little corrosion going on, but the main thing is how the rubber cores are literally ripped out. Keep in mind these looked perfectly fine from the outside.

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Last edited by JohnM.; 10-10-2012 at 01:51 AM.
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  #12  
Old 10-10-2012, 12:33 PM
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Let me get round to installing new ball joints then I'll check the steering box and rag joint.

But I believe its best to get a set of new subframe bushings lined up for install too.
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2012 BMW X5 (Beef + Granite suspension model)

1995 E300D - The original humming machine (consumed by Flood 2017)
2000 E320 - The evolution (consumed by flood 2017)
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  #13  
Old 10-10-2012, 12:37 PM
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Here's what my rear subframe bushings looked like:
W201 Rear Subframe Bushing Photos
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Cruise Control not working? Send me PM or email (jamesdean59@gmail.com). I might be able to help out.
Check here for compatibility, diagnostics, and availability!

(4/11/2020: Hi Everyone! I am still taking orders and replying to emails/PMs/etc, I appreciate your patience in these crazy times. Stay safe and healthy!)


82 300SD 145k
89 420SEL 210k
89 560SEL 118k
90 300SE 262k RIP 5/25/2010
90 560SEL 154k
91 300D 2.5 Turbo. 241k
93 190E 3.0 235k
93 300E 195k
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  #14  
Old 10-10-2012, 03:06 PM
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At this point - what bushings? sounds more correct as your subframe bushings have torn up completely.
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2012 BMW X5 (Beef + Granite suspension model)

1995 E300D - The original humming machine (consumed by Flood 2017)
2000 E320 - The evolution (consumed by flood 2017)
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  #15  
Old 10-10-2012, 03:25 PM
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Here is my replaced what list:

Front/Rear Shocks (Bilstein B8 Sports)
Rear Subframe Bushings (Coreteco, Lemforder)
Front Control Arms (Lemforder, sport bushings)
Idler Arm Bushing

My steering is pretty good. The replacement of the front control arms really helped the front end not feel like it was being forced by the road in directions.

The rear end stuff helped when going over bumps. It no longer slams the entire car.

I found out one of my front shocks were COMPLETELY shot. The drivers side unit was dead, and was responsible for some pulling.

The only thing I have not replaced but am tempted to...is the steering box.

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Cruise Control not working? Send me PM or email (jamesdean59@gmail.com). I might be able to help out.
Check here for compatibility, diagnostics, and availability!

(4/11/2020: Hi Everyone! I am still taking orders and replying to emails/PMs/etc, I appreciate your patience in these crazy times. Stay safe and healthy!)


82 300SD 145k
89 420SEL 210k
89 560SEL 118k
90 300SE 262k RIP 5/25/2010
90 560SEL 154k
91 300D 2.5 Turbo. 241k
93 190E 3.0 235k
93 300E 195k
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