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#1
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*STRANDED* Lift pump died, can I bypass it with an electric unit?
I am stranded and I am supposed to be on the road, could I pick up an electric lift pump from a mc parts store and use it in the mean time?
Something low pressure like this? http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/AIX0/E8090.oap?ck=Search_N0515_1192519_2976&pt=N0515&ppt=C0025 Just for reference I have the later style bosch mechanical lift pump that has no hand primer, photo here: http://catalog.peachparts.com/searchitem.epc?lookfor=000+090+26+50&s_temp_transfer_key=_3AS16VALE I am open to getting it at pepboys, oriley, autozone. If anyone has any good recommendations if this will work. Thanks, Taylor
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'84 190D 2.2 OM601.911 144K |
#2
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as long as it can keep up I would hazard to say yes.
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hum..... 1987 300TD 311,000M Stolen. Presumed destroyed |
#3
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No one has tried it on your year and model.
Electric Fuel pump http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w123-e-ce-d-cd-td/1474392-electric-fuel-pump.html http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/260908-83-sd-primer-pump-issue-post2291021.html?posted=1#post2291021 From my notes don't know were I got this from: Electric Fuel Pump 14 psi is ok. I used the Carter pumps at Autozone.They have a 6psi,9 psi,and a 14 psi.I like the 14 better.I use it to push diesel or wvo. Carter pumps.I use the soleniod style becase I run wvo in the summer.A rotor and vane type would not last with grease or bio.Its a universal fuel pump,inline,the Carter.Faucets last one to 2 days.
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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel |
#4
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Is there a 616 or 617 lift pump that will work in a 601? There might be a member with a spare close to you.
Sixto 87 300D |
#5
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PSI of lift pump?
So, what is the PSI of the lift pump? 15psi?
I want to match my aux pump psi to the lift pump. The aux fuel pump I'm using now is only 6-9 psi. Thanks, Jeff
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1984 300SD 300,000 miles--two tank WVO setup 2.88 diff & 500SEL anti-squat rear end |
#6
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Quote:
On the Fuel Injection Pumps that have a Lift Pump with no Hand Primer the Fuel Pressure Relief/Overflow Valve is set up so that some Fuel always bleeds through an orifice and is supposed to take the Air with it through the orifice. That would mean that part of the pressure is also bleeding off. So with his particular Fuel System the amount of Flow may be more important the pressure. If his Lift Pump is no good an Electric Fuel Pump ought to at least get him started. After that it is a matter of test driving to fine out if there is a loss of performance. In theory an Electric Fuel Pump with a max pressure of 7 pounds is not supposed to be enough pressure for my 617.952. But, in that Benzworld thread I think that is what he used is Electric Pump on. In a previous post I posted a thread were some one rebuilt their newer style Lift Pump. I believe he said the kit was around $40-$49. But, to get out the Oulet Valve you need to at least partially grind off the Crimp that holds it in.
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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel |
#7
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Here's what I found in my Tech Data book.
I'm going to switch my aux fuel pump to a Airtex E8153 to bump it up to 15 psi for my 617. Hope this helps the OP with his 601. Jeff
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1984 300SD 300,000 miles--two tank WVO setup 2.88 diff & 500SEL anti-squat rear end |
#8
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Quote:
So in the manual they are worried about Flow not pressure. Some one can convert the 150cc delivered in 30 seconds to Gallons Per minute and that will tell you if and Electric Fuel Pump will deliver enough Flow to start the Engine. Since there is no specs for the Lift Pump flow at normal driving speeds the only way to know is to buy an Electric Fuel Pump and try it. In my 617 the only reason I can think of not to simply rebuild the Lift Pump (I have already done this; cheap and not hard to do) is the minor extra convenience when priming that an Electric Fuel Pump would give. The 617 type Lift/Fuel Supply Pumps have a different type of Valves in them and will apparently last 25+ years before needing to be rebuilt again. The Lift/Fuel Supply Pumps on the 60X Engines have Disc Vlalves similar to the ones inside the Vacuum Pump or on the Old Style Gasser Fuel Pumps before Fuel Injection came along. And, apparently the Disc Valves do not hold up as well.
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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel Last edited by Diesel911; 08-29-2011 at 12:18 PM. |
#9
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Except for fast priming I do not see the allure of having an Electric Fuel Pump (especially with the stock Alternator) on a 617.
Rebuilding the Fuel Supply/Lift Pump is cheap and easy and you know that the Pump is going to be adequate and reliable for the Job. And, your Lift Pump is most likely fixed for another 20 years. On the newer Models the rebuilding the Lift Pump is slightly more complicated due to the Outlet Valve crimped in a fitting and the Kit cost more but it is still a reliable fix. But, the newer model Lift Pumps do not seem to have the longevity of the 617 types. However, the Newer models have higher amp Alternators and there is no facility for priming the Fuel System. So on them an Electric Fuel Pump seems more useful and feasible. I am still most interested in hearing from the Original Poster!
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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel |
#10
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Quote:
I totally agree, it makes the most sense to just fix the stock fuel delivery system, but its interesting to debate emergency options
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This post brought to you by Carl's Jr. |
#11
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Quote:
I ended up connecting and Electric Fuel Pump (one of the cheapie pulse ones) just to bring the Fuel up from the Tank to the Fuel Injection Pump. There is no Hand Primer on the Volvo. So I was glad to have the Electric Fuel Pump on hand or I would have had to do a lot of Engine Cranking.
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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel |
#12
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Diesel 911
Thanks for the information. I know all about bleeding the air out of the system, and my engine has the newer style hand primer. I did not know the unit was a combination lift pump and primer, I thought it was just an oversized hand primer unit. Thanks again. Glenn
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2012 Mercedes ML350 Bluetec 102K (hers) 2005 Corvette 55K (fun car) 2002 VW Jetta TDI 238K (mine) 1998 Volvo S70 T5 Turbo 211K (kids) 1994 Ford F150 4WD 246K (firewood hauler) 1983 Mercedes 300D 384K (diesel commuter) |
#13
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Request update
Quote:
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#14
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Bypasses the mechanical lift pump with an electric one voids the potential of running the engine without electricity.
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1977 300d 70k--sold 08 1985 300TD 185k+ 1984 307d 126k--sold 8/03 1985 409d 65k--sold 06 1984 300SD 315k--daughter's car 1979 300SD 122k--sold 2/11 1999 Fuso FG Expedition Camper 1993 GMC Sierra 6.5 TD 4x4 1982 Bluebird Wanderlodge CAT 3208--Sold 2/13 |
#15
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One of the threads commented on the pulsation of the cheapie Electric Fuel Supply/Lift Pump.
Speaking on In-line Fuel Injection Pumps The Plungers in the Elements of the Fuel Injection Pump always have the same stroke. What Fuel inside of the Element that does not get Injected into the Engine gets expelled back out the Fuel Inlet/Feed Ports on the Element. The expelling of the Fuel can be so violent that it can in some cases erode a holes through Fuel Injection Pump Housings that are Aluminum. Some Fuel Injection Pumps with Aluminum Housings have Steel Plugs opposite the Feed Holes to slow down the erosion. What the above has to do with Electric Fuel Pumps is that the Pulsation of the Electric Fuel Pump tiny compared to what is going on inside of the In-line Fuel Injection Pump Housing.
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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel Last edited by whunter; 08-31-2011 at 10:22 PM. Reason: spelling |
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