![]() |
|
|
|
|
#1
|
||||
|
||||
Diesel Idle vibration
I read on the site that "adjusting the governor idle pin (aka rack idle pin) on the IP can do wonders for "idle shake."
Could you please tell me where the Governor Idle pin is located and what is IP? Thanks |
#2
|
|||
|
|||
IP is injector pump. Check your motor mounts for low idle vibration. Open the hood, start, and with your foot on the BRAKE, put in drive and give it some throttle. Do the same in reverse. If the motor twists up left or right excessively, your mounts probably need to be done. I'm in the process of getting mine done-waiting for my parts. Put the e-brake on for good measure.
__________________
1990 300D 2.5 1991 F350 7.3 Dually IDI 1997 F350 gasser dump 1980 H-D 93 inch Shovel 2000 SE Roadglide |
#3
|
||||
|
||||
Thanks
|
#4
|
||||
|
||||
does it only do it when hot? Becuase mine has a rocking motion that really sucks only when its hot. Rocks the entire car back and forth. Engine is very strong and healthy otherwise and I even installed bosio injectors to help the problem, didnt do a thing but didnt make it worse
__________________
![]() |
#5
|
||||
|
||||
This topic comes up enough (weekly?) that maybe we should have a sticky explaining all the causes and remedies of the shakes?
__________________
For Sale: 1982 MB 300TD 1995 Chevrolet Suburban 6.5TD Sold: 1980 IH Scout Traveler- Nissan SD33T Diesel |
#6
|
|||
|
|||
I look at it this way: it gives an unbeatable massage.
|
#7
|
||||
|
||||
Shaking can be caused by many things. Here is a list in no particular order:
1. Idle speed too low. Idle should be about 650RPM 2. Clogged air or fuel filters. 3. Valves that are out of adjustment. 4. A rack damper bolt that needs replacing or adjustment. 5. Bad motor mounts. 6. With a cold engine it can be caused by bad glow plugs, this usually goes away after the engine warms up. 7. Imbalanced injector pop pressure or bad spray patterns. 8. Imbalanced compression across cylinders. A mis-adjusted or bad rack damper bolt usually shows up as rough idle when the engine is hot. I'd start with checking your idle RPM, then replace filters, then adjust the valves. A couple cans of diesel purge will also clean up any build up in the IP and injectors and might also help the situation. Check your motor mounts as stated above, also look at them. Do they look collapsed or broken? If it's only happening on a cold engine they I'd check all your glow plugs. If none of this helps you'll need to rebuild the injectors at the very least, you might just get away with having them re-shimed so the pop pressures are all correct, but you may need new nozzles as well. Then if that still isn't the issue than it's likely that you have uneven compression across the cylinders, which there isn't much you can do about. Here is a photo of the rack damper bolt. ![]()
__________________
Andrew '04 Jetta TDI Wagon ![]() '82 300TD ~ Winnie ~ Sold '77 300D ~ Sold
|
#8
|
||||
|
||||
Quote:
A new Reack Damper/Governor Idle Pin will work better than an old one. However, if your Valves need adjusting, Injectors need rebuilding and your Motor and Trans mounts are shot the Idle Pin is not up to compensating for those items.
__________________
84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel |
![]() |
Bookmarks |
|
|