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Wagon Hatch Lock Cylinder Questions
So when I bought the 79 300TD, there was a key stuck in the rear hatch and had been for a few years. The rear hatch was inoperable (hasn't mattered to me as its been a garage queen so far). Today I managed to get the rear door open by taking off the panels from the inside and fiddling with the locking mechanism. I opened the door and took the lock out by unbolting all the trim. I had to cut part of the key with a grinder to isolate the cylinder from the trim.
The key and cylinder will not turn at all but I did get the "button" to move in and out. http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j1...s/IMAG0679.jpg Anyone know what the best plan of attack is? I already tried pulling it out with pliers. Sprayed Wd40 into every thing. There is a screw on the inside and it does move but it seems to stop at a certain point of withdrawing it with a screwdriver and I don't want to wreck the head. Would taking it to a locksmith be of any use? Could they extract it and get my lock functional? Thanks, Ryan |
Any ideas?
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Just take your title down to the MB dealer and order a new cylinder that matches your car.
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Have you tried getting the lock barrel out of the housing. You might have to shave down the key to get the outer sleeve off the barrel. I can't remember how it all comes apart, but I think all of the mechanism should be screwed onto the interior part of lock. Then you may be able to slide the barrel out. You must have one of the brass parts inside the lock that it jammed up and keeping the key from coming out.
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Kidding aside, a new cylinder shouldn't cost you that much. I think an ignition cylinder is on $50-60 bucks. Some might say just buy a new cylinder from one of the aftermarkets, but that will be a new key. Personally, I care to keep everything keyed to the original set, more value in that for me. |
One trick to rekeying a lock to a new key, is once the barrel is removed, you can insert the key of choice, then file down the brass inserts that move up and down. Once the ones that are sticking up with the new key are filed down to the cylinder the new key will allow the cylinder to rotate and work normally. I've done this with a couple locks over the years that we miss-matched.
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I'd personally try to grab a junkyard cylinder and tear it to pieces trying to figure out how to fix the one you have. I'll probably be down the same road soon. |
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WTF!!! are you serious? when did this go into effect? |
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Although I read my previous post and I think there might be some confusion. I'll try to state it more clearly. As far as I have been told you cannot get a new ignition cylinder that matches your VIN. You can get a new ignition cylinder (lets call it X) and keys for it, but all keys must be ordered with the cylinder. If you lose/break the keys you ordered you cannot then order any additional keys for the cylinder (X) because there is no way to order them. Ordering by VIN will only order keys for the original ignition cylinder that came with the car from the factory. The only solution if you have lost all keys for the new ignition cylinder (X) is to purchase yet another new ignition cylinder (Y) and DON'T LOSE THE KEYS. A CAUTION. I have not personally tried to order any of the above and am only passing on information from my usual parts counter guy. He's been a reliable source of accurate information in the past, but he could be wrong. |
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