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#1
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Install an after-market trans cooler, and connect to it. This removes roughly 1/3 of the thermal load from the cooling system. .
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ASE Master Mechanic https://whunter.carrd.co/ Prototype R&D/testing: Thermal & Aerodynamic System Engineering (TASE) Senior vehicle instrumentation technician. Noise Vibration and Harshness (NVH). Dynamometer. Heat exchanger durability. HV-A/C Climate Control. Vehicle build. Fleet Durability Technical Quality Auditor. Automotive Technical Writer 1985 300SD 1983 300D 2003 Volvo V70 https://www.boldegoist.com/ |
#2
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I hope this isn't hijacking a thread, it's relevant after all. I have recently finished installing my newly assembled 3.0 603 in my '91 350SD. The block's cooling passages are perfectly clean, as is the #22 head. I installed a new Laso water pump, new Behr radiator, correct MB coolant and a new MB 80deg. thermostat. I have driven the car about 500 miles, and the ambient temp has not been above 70deg F. The running temp of the car has consistantly been about 90, and one time off the highway it climbed to 100. Point is, I can't think of anything else I can do to lower the operating temp. Am I missing anything? Thanks
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Chief 1991 350SD |
#3
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1987 300TD 309, xxx 2.8.2014 10,000 mile OCI Be careful of the toes you step on today, as they may be connected to the ass you have to kiss tomorrow. anonymous “Be who you are and say what you feel, because those who mind don’t matter, and those who matter won’t mind.” Dr. Seuss |
#4
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What you continue to miss is the fact that the engine will run perfectly fine at 110°C. and absolutely will not harm itself at that temperature.
The engine is probably fine all the way up to the boiling point of the coolant which is approx. 138C. with a 50/50 mix of Zerex G-05 and a pressure of 20.6 psi. Folks make much ado about nothing. The engine will only hurt itself if it runs without coolant flowing. I know of nobody on the forum, in the last 10 years, who actually overheated a 603 that had the proper concentration of coolant and a proper 140 cap. Everybody worries constantly, however. |
#5
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I have been watching the coolant level and adding until the level stabilized.
I suppose if there is ever a time to "worry" it is when putting a new engine into service. Objectively, the cooling system in the car is perfect, and an 80deg thermostat should operate at 80deg. I do have a lot of money and time tied up here, so I would like to understand and protect the investment. I'm still acclimating to the car, and if it is consistant at 90, so be it.
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Chief 1991 350SD |
#6
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That would be an incorrect conclusion. The figure of "80" indicates that this temperature is the point where the 'stat just begins to open. In reality, depending on many other variables, the system will operate between 80C.and 94C. At the point of 94C., the 'stat is fully open and the cooling system is operating at it's maximum capacity. Of course, as the coolant temperature climbs above 94C., the capacity is also increased, so it's a bit self-regulating once the 'stat is not in equation.
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#7
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The purpose of the thermostat is to "enforce" a minimum temperature. Considering that an 80 degree thermostat only begins to open at 80 degrees, and does not fully open until 94 degrees, the expectation of an 80 degree operating temperature is completely unreasonable.
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When cryptography is outlawed, bayl bhgynjf jvyy unir cevinpl. |
#8
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Chief 1991 350SD |
#9
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I believe this is mostly due to the fact our Mercedes have actual working temperature gauges that, when all is working properly, give quite accurate readings of engine/coolant temperature; whereas just about any newer car you'll drive has nothing more than an idiot light with a needle. I'm glad Mercedes installed a working gauge rather than a dummy, I like to know that my car is running at a given temp under given cirumstances.
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#10
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#11
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I think this thread should help ease his fears a bit. Your point about cooling system capacities and the thermostat's function is a good one. I have always noticed my 606 can swing between 85c-100c quite easily if it's hot out and the AC is running, but it doesn't seem to surpass 100c no matter what I do or what the ambient temps are. It just goes to show how well Mercedes did infact engineer our cooling systems and engines. 100c is an efficient and safe temp and you really have to try hard to get most of these rigs to exceed 100-110c once that thermostat is fully open. It just tends to freak people out when they see that gauge actually move, rather than sit "harmlessly" in the middle of the temp range as it does on most cars.
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#12
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Well...I don't accept the 110*C is OK thinking
First of all thanks for all the input......
Bottom line though... I agree running at 105 C to 110C or 230F may not kill the motor if incidental and gets to cool off say on a down hill run afterward. However clearly the system is taxed if it is continuously running above 100C – 105C, and sure is not the way it should be running all day. Add some extra hills and yes I’m getting concerned (Please drop the idiot inferences suggesting we play ostrich lol). See.. my goal in these hot environments is to have the motor running in a manner that when I hit a good grade I have the capacity start well below 100C & to run upwards or over 100C….not start there! Mercedes did install “Tropical Climate” set ups for other markets needing it to keep these jobs running in the 80C to 95C range…yes even with the AC on. Apparently not in the US Market 603 years. So in summary what I am searching for is a way to keep the motor cooler during these scorching months here in the South West Desert (as in other regions) where hot and dry is really hot and clearly not incidental (Yea I too have read the “bulletins” that say its ok to run it almost to the Red Zone but not in my car I don’t) Anyway I have to agree with Hunter here and work to get these temps down by helping the cooling system out with steps like taking the trans cooling function out of the circuit and handling it differently, etc. And that it is important to remember that at high mileage there is more friction / heat being generated by older parts (even rebuilt). Spoke with the folks at the MB Classic Center in Irvine today who agreed & shared several ideas and suggested I swing by tomorrow. I’ll share their thoughts with y’all asap. Thanks...Rob
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![]() 1986 300SDL 440,xxx |
#13
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I've posted my temperature data here. Hopefully some others will post and we can all learn what "normal" is. Brian: If my memory serves me correctly you have had 2-3 OM603s. What did your temp gauge read when you were hyper-miling at 62 mph? Yes I know your recent mileage thread was with an OM617, but I'm going to assume you drove the SDLs the same way.
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1987 300TD 309, xxx 2.8.2014 10,000 mile OCI Be careful of the toes you step on today, as they may be connected to the ass you have to kiss tomorrow. anonymous “Be who you are and say what you feel, because those who mind don’t matter, and those who matter won’t mind.” Dr. Seuss |
#14
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The 80 SL/SLC uses a 75C thermostat. It use to state it in the listing when looking up the part. now doesn`t show it.
Maybe this thermostat will help. Charlie
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there were three HP ratings on the OM616... 1) Not much power 2) Even less power 3) Not nearly enough power!! 240D w/auto Anyone that thinks a 240D is slow drives too fast. 80 240D Naturally Exasperated, 4-Spd 388k DD 150mph spedo 3:58 Diff We are advised to NOT judge ALL Muslims by the actions of a few lunatics, but we are encouraged to judge ALL gun owners by the actions of a few lunatics. Funny how that works |
#15
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A lower-rated thermostat is never the solution to an overheating condition, real or imagined.
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When cryptography is outlawed, bayl bhgynjf jvyy unir cevinpl. |
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