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-   -   W210 Battery Charging (http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/318820-w210-battery-charging.html)

JHZR2 05-27-2012 05:05 PM

W210 Battery Charging
 
Hi,

Parents E300D seems to have a flaky battery. I'm going to put a standard, low-rate smart, microprocessor based battery charger.

What scares me is this:

http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j3...f/230e245b.jpg

Why would the w210 be so sensitive in terms of electronics that I'd need to pull the negative cable to charge the battery?

Does anyone maintenance charge their w210 without disconnecting it? Don't want to fry some obscure part.

My 2011 BMW charges the battery via an underhood lug like on the W210 without any issues.

Thanks!

Jeremy5848 05-27-2012 06:23 PM

I have a permanently-mounted smart charger on my '96 E300D; the cord comes out down behind the removable panel in the lower bumper surround along with the block heater cord. All I have to do is to plug it into an outlet any time I want to top up the battery. Has been on the car for several years without problems.

One thing to watch is that all of these "smart" chargers draw a little current. It isn't enough to harm the battery but if the car is put away for a significant portion of time (all winter, for example) than the charger needs to be either disconnected or connected to power, which you would probably do anyway.

If you are at all concerned about over-charging the battery, just put the charger on a timer so it only works a couple of hours a day.

Jeremy

spock505 11-28-2012 06:33 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jeremy5848 (Post 2944904)
I have a permanently-mounted smart charger on my '96 E300D; the cord comes out down behind the removable panel in the lower bumper surround along with the block heater cord. All I have to do is to plug it into an outlet any time I want to top up the battery. Has been on the car for several years without problems.

One thing to watch is that all of these "smart" chargers draw a little current. It isn't enough to harm the battery but if the car is put away for a significant portion of time (all winter, for example) than the charger needs to be either disconnected or connected to power, which you would probably do anyway.

If you are at all concerned about over-charging the battery, just put the charger on a timer so it only works a couple of hours a day.

Jeremy

Hello,

I am looking to install a block heater somewhere in the engine bay. Any advice on the best location would be appreciated along with the odd pic.

If you have similar info on the best route and removable panel as this could be an option too, what sort of waterproof connector do you use?

Cheers,

Jeremy5848 11-28-2012 01:01 PM

Block heater
 
The London area doesn't get that cold, do you really need to use a block heater?

Depending on which car you're talking about, it may already have a block heater. All OM60x engines exported to the USA got block heaters but I don't know about those shipped to the UK. The block heater in these engines is on the exhaust side of the block, along towards the rear of the engine. If there is no block heater there will be a plug that can be unscrewed (usually with difficulty) and a block heater installed.

The cord is run along the chassis, avoiding hot exhaust pipes, to the front of the car. A cap for the plug is available from electric shops but is not absolutely required. (The factory block heater is threaded so that the factory electric cord can screw into it, making a weatherproof seal at the heater itself.)

A last possibility is a heater that installs in the lower radiator hose. I had one of those in my 1985 300D-T. It isn't quite as efficient as the block-installed heater but easier to install in some engines.

Jeremy

Air&Road 11-28-2012 02:34 PM

The reason for the sticker is that they are worried about a voltage spike when connecting a charger that is already powered on or jumper cables. Permanently connecting a small smart charger will probably be okay.

spock505 11-28-2012 09:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jeremy5848 (Post 3057213)
The London area doesn't get that cold, do you really need to use a block heater?

Depending on which car you're talking about, it may already have a block heater. All OM60x engines exported to the USA got block heaters but I don't know about those shipped to the UK. The block heater in these engines is on the exhaust side of the block, along towards the rear of the engine. If there is no block heater there will be a plug that can be unscrewed (usually with difficulty) and a block heater installed.

The cord is run along the chassis, avoiding hot exhaust pipes, to the front of the car. A cap for the plug is available from electric shops but is not absolutely required. (The factory block heater is threaded so that the factory electric cord can screw into it, making a weatherproof seal at the heater itself.)

A last possibility is a heater that installs in the lower radiator hose. I had one of those in my 1985 300D-T. It isn't quite as efficient as the block-installed heater but easier to install in some engines.

Jeremy

Thanks for the reply.

Yes, London does tend to stay a few degrees above the rest of the country, although I am in MK which is a bit further North.

The vehicle/engine in question is 1998 W210 300TD fitted with OM606 engine.

I'll have a look for the plug which you mention in the side of the block, that said I don't think I have seen the core type for sale here. A special part like that from MB would cost a fortune as possibly non standard here.

This is the after market unit which is more common here and fits into the smaller heater hoses. Having looked at the two hose running into the duo valave I am not sure which one would yield the best results?

From memory, there is one feed and valve to each side of the vehicle so need to splice in before the valve?


Kenlowe Hotstart HS4 2.7Kw 230v Engine Pre-Heater - YouTube

vstech 11-29-2012 12:31 AM

I'll bet the warning is there for kuckleheads that have 250Amp chargers as a CYA warning. high voltage can certainly damage resistance heaters, and sensitive electronics.
likely a smart charger will only put out alternator voltages... under 15v.
I mean, why put battery posts in the engine compartment if you can't hook anything up to them?
the battery is under the seat in that car, right? and, doesn't the radio and other electronics get reset if you disconnect the negative battery cable?

Jeremy5848 11-29-2012 12:50 AM

The radio needs to have its anti-theft code entered but the memory is non-volatile so you don't use your programmed stations. The other memories (seat position, etc.) are also non-volatile.

Heater-hose heaters can be used but the heater hoses are harder to access than a radiator hose. You should be able to get a radiator hose heater for less than 50 pounds sterling, perhaps much less. The only thing to watch for is the diameter of the radiator hose and the voltage rating of the heater. A plug to fit your mains electricity is even better.

Jeremy

spock505 11-29-2012 05:05 AM

Here's a pic of what's installed on the block at the moment.

http://i225.photobucket.com/albums/d...IMG_0477-1.jpg

Looking at the excellent 'How to' mine appears to be a plug?

http://www.peachparts.com/diy/om606blockheater/4.jpg

PeachPartsWiki: Block Heater Wiring

vstech 11-29-2012 07:51 AM

your pic is a tad to the right of the block heater location. that item in the pic is the block drain. if you look in the smaller pic, the lower right edge of the photo has the same drain.
however, the upper left edge of your pic, has the outline of something in it, and it's NOT a hex fitting, so likely you do not have the heater... tilt the camera up and to the left a bit, and take another shot...

spock505 11-29-2012 08:37 AM

Thanks, what about this?

http://i225.photobucket.com/albums/d...0/IMG_0480.jpg

Jeremy5848 11-29-2012 11:32 AM

That's probably it. Be careful unscrewing it. Use a tight 6-point socket, don't risk rounding it off. Once you're able to loosen it, use the other fitting to drain the block of coolant before removing the plug to install a block heater.

Jeremy

spock505 11-30-2012 02:33 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jeremy5848 (Post 3057793)
That's probably it. Be careful unscrewing it. Use a tight 6-point socket, don't risk rounding it off. Once you're able to loosen it, use the other fitting to drain the block of coolant before removing the plug to install a block heater.

Jeremy

It might be a non-starter (excuse the pun) MB in their parts catalogue are asking;

"Inchcape shows A6042000096 Pre Heater Parts for 230V line voltage £381.24"

I am surprised as the Scandinavian countries will have these as standard similar to the US.

spock505 11-30-2012 09:16 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by spock505 (Post 3058252)
It might be a non-starter (excuse the pun) MB in their parts catalogue are asking;

"Inchcape shows A6042000096 Pre Heater Parts for 230V line voltage £381.24"

I am surprised as the Scandinavian countries will have these as standard similar to the US.

My local MB dealer came back with a quote too $681 ahhmmm..

barry12345 11-30-2012 11:53 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Air&Road (Post 3057293)
The reason for the sticker is that they are worried about a voltage spike when connecting a charger that is already powered on or jumper cables. Permanently connecting a small smart charger will probably be okay.

Basically very accurate. If boosting to or from one of the modern cars there is a risk involved as well. Best to just let the other battery absorb enough charge to start it's car from the boost. You can disable electronics otherwise on occassion. Anyways it requires little to remove the negative cable for charging or boosting.


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