I'll try to remember to make a few pictures of the setup on one of my Euro 240D's when I get home.

This is the one that I find most intriguing. It mounts tight to the block and uses an idler for belt tension.

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/...1&d=1341505515

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/...1&d=1341505528

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/...1&d=1341505528

I'm imagining it looking something like this installed.

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/...1&d=1341507044

The original one has the idler toward the "outside" which only provides 90 degrees or so of belt contact with the compressor, but moving it "inside" a bit increases that to 160 or so degrees of belt contact, presumably requiring less tension and better grip.

looking at the last post, having the belt pulled up to the vacuum pump; how about pushing it in like a timing belt down

Just a thought

Sal

76 300D
85 300D

I thought of that. It would work conceptually (see image), however I'm not sure how well that would work with a V-belt. That's the standard with a serpentine belt, but that's very flat. I suspect that the reason the V-belt idlers I've seen use the V part of the belt not the "outside" part of the belt is that it could flip. It would be better, I just don't know if it's done.


http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/...1&d=1341510002

Maybe someone knows for sure.

There are plenty of flat idlers available, so that sounds like a good idea.

I can see where the big hole goes (just below the VP), but not the other two. I can't see from the photo where those two holes would go on the front of the block.

I couldn't either. I just assumed they were hidden in the pics I had. So there's only one available on the front?

Yes, only the big hole that the long bolt goes through (pivot for R4). I just got back from Patton Steel and bought an 8"X8"X1/4 plate and some tabs. I will be starting the fab work after lunch. I will post photos....Rich

I think there is really no need to mount it tight to the block. The Sanden compressor is slim enough that it's basically the diameter of the pulley. With that said, you have about 2 inches of room between the pulley and frame rails to move it outward.


You can't do it that way with a V-Belt. The backside of a V-belt is not a wearing surface material. Plus the V-Belt is designed to bend one way. It will be compromised shortly after a few hundred of miles.



This is my mock up idler with the R4 still intact. Was thinking of mounting the idler bracket to the water pump bolts with the use of the smaller water pump pulley found on later 300SD 617.951 or mounting it on the new compressor bracket with the new room created by moving the compressor outward.

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/...1&d=1341528513



.

Evidently on the Turbo Engine blocks there is not hole like on N/A engine blocks as noted by charmalu

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/2275633-post21.html

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/2275648-post22.html


.

True enough on the 123 which is probably one of the main chassis that this project is destined for, however I've got a 617.952 in a R107 where the front mount of the upper control arm is in a different relative position from the 123 and the mounting bracket for the subframe likewise makes the space available for the compressor more restrictive. I'll need to be as tight as possible to the block in this case.

I wonder if it might be possible to drill and tap those holes. If the block casting hasn't changed substantially in that area between the NA and turbo blocks, this might be possible, which would open up other mounting options. Anyone got a junk block that would like to test the idea? Wouldn't be too cool to drill into an oil passage for example.

On my 116 I'm not even sure if the 2 holes in the front of the block are present. If they are they are covered by the tach pickup and some other stuff:

http://i711.photobucket.com/albums/w...f/IMG_2352.jpg

I couldn't find a d@mned thing up front to mount to :confused:

In this pic you can see the places where the "cradle" is bolted to the block:

http://i711.photobucket.com/albums/w...f/IMG_2371.jpg

One bolt goes through the lug that has a hole parallel to the crankshaft. It's the main mounting piont for the R4. The other bolt goes through the lug that has a machined surface which is parallel to the ground. It isn't used for anything on my 116. Maybe a locating surface for machining the block:confused:

Here it is on the bench:

http://i711.photobucket.com/albums/w...f/IMG_2359.jpg

http://i711.photobucket.com/albums/w...f/IMG_2357.jpg

It's not very elegant but I put an average of 500 miles a week on it. Sometimes 1500 miles/ week and it's been holding up for a year now.

I had some trouble with holding belt tension until Jim suggested this:

http://i711.photobucket.com/albums/w...f/SANY0037.jpg

That's a view from under the car looking at the bottom of the bracket.

I check the belt tension about every other day now (About 400 miles) and it's still holding solid.

If I were to do it again, with an engine on a stand :D I think I would begin with a plate that bolted to the block where the 3 R4 bracket bolts fasten. The 3 that screw straight into the block (perpendicular to the cylinder bores), Mock up some spacers on either side of the "main r4" lug (I used the original long spacer and cut it in half)

The "3 bolts" were a no-go for me because the pads are staggered and there was just no way I could get to them with the engine in the car. But it would be pretty easy with an engine on a stand.

Once you get those mounting points worked out with some heavy plate you can mock up the compressor where it needs to be (The pulley is gonna dictate the location) and start tack welding a solution. That's what I did.

It was like playing Jenga with a floor jack, some pieces of wood and a Sanden at times :o

If you're interested you can check this out:

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/301246-compressor-bracket.html

I tried to document what I was up to in case someone else ever did it.

And yea, in this 100 degree heat I'd say it was worth it ;)

Good luck and keep us posted!

Is there a possibility the alternator could be moved and the compressor mounted in it`s place as this picture shows the alternator mount?
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/...ions-ac-09.jpg


Charlie

Hold the phone! I got it figured out.
Here is the plate tacked ready to weld:
http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k1...7/100_1198.jpg
Compressor and idler mounted:
http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k1...7/100_1201.jpg
Front view:
http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k1...7/100_1208.jpg
http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k1...7/100_1200.jpg
Prototype plate ready to make a drawing and fixture:
http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k1...7/100_1203.jpg
http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k1...7/100_1210.jpg
A long bolt will go through the two sleeves and tighten the idler.
I will have some plates cut out, and the other parts cut. I will have a friend weld them for me, as I am not the best welder. I already have need of three of these, so I think I will start out with 10. I will sell the rest.

Wow, that looks great!

What vehicle was the bracket off of?

Nice work.