Installing a Sanden compressor on a 617- looking at all options - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

ROLLGUY · #1 07-04-2012, 10:24 PM

With my recent hassle with the new CompressorWorks R4 I purchased Installing a CompressorWorks R4 into a W123
I am going to install a Sanden style compressor. I am not happy with the price for a mounting kit Klima A/C Compressor Upgrade Kit (W123 Turbodiesel Models) | Klima Design Works ($400), so I am going to make the brackets myself. If you or anyone you know has done this, we would like the link and/or photos. I would like to explore all options. I have a 617 and a Sanden core, so I can mock it up without crawling under the car. I am right in the middle of figuring out the best way to mount it. So far I have two options: (1) mount the compressor solid, and employ some sort of adjustable idler pulley. (2) mount one of the ears of the compressor so it pivots on that bolt, and make some sort of slot on the opposite side to make the adjustment (somewhat like the alternator adjustment on the 60's and 70's Chevy 8's). I will post some photos soon on what I have done so far.
Mach4 is also doing a similar job on his 617 powered R107. I am sure he will chime in here.....Rich

vstech · #2 07-04-2012, 10:37 PM

another member here that lives near me has an 89 TE and it's mostly stripped down. I noticed that the stock compressor is sanden like, but it has the same flange as the R4... and the bracket is in the same place as the R4 in the 617's... I'm not saying it's a match as I've not tried it yet, but it LOOKS like it could be a match. has anybody ever tried it?

ROLLGUY · #3 07-04-2012, 11:02 PM

Option (1)- Mounting the compressor solid and use an idler.
Here is the bracket I got:

Compressor, idler and bracket:

Option (2)- Mounting one ear to the block so the compressor can pivot. I have an alternator bracket that might work.
I used a long bolt and aluminum sleeve. One ear was already cut off the core that I had, and will need to be done to the one being used if this method is employed:

I believe that either way, the compressor needs to be mounted on the bottom somehow. I think I will notch a piece of flat stock and use three of the pan bolts (use longer ones and put nuts on top) to mount it to:

This is all just preliminary, so nothing is set in stone. I will also look at the feasibility of mounting the PS pump down low, and the compressor up high (tomorrow!).

DeliveryValve · #4 07-04-2012, 11:31 PM

My vote is to use an idler to tighten up the belt. It is a much better solution to have the compressor in a fixed position then having weak points with a swinging compressor. It would be great if you can make it work with the space limitations below.

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ROLLGUY · #5 07-04-2012, 11:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DeliveryValve

My vote is to use an idler to tighten up the belt. It is a much better solution to have the compressor in a fixed position then having weak points with a swinging compressor. It would be great if you can make it work with the space limitations below.

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I am leaning that way as well. However, there is very little room between the compressor pulley and the vacuum pump. Maybe an inch and a half. That just means that the belt will need to be just right, or a little on the short side. I may be able to find a smaller diameter pulley as well. However, this may all change tomorrow if I find I can relocate the PS pump down low, and the A/C up high......Rich

mach4 · #6 07-04-2012, 11:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ROLLGUY

However, this may all change tomorrow if I find I can relocate the PS pump down low, and the A/C up high......Rich

That would be terrific if a solution could be found for swapping positions.

Since you've got a free standing engine, can you take some reference pictures of the block particularly directly head on and directly from the side in the area that the compressor might go. That would help those of us who don't have such a platform to visualize a little better what we've got to work with on the block.

DeliveryValve · #7 07-05-2012, 12:37 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ROLLGUY

I am leaning that way as well. However, there is very little room between the compressor pulley and the vacuum pump. Maybe an inch and a half. That just means that the belt will need to be just right, or a little on the short side. I may be able to find a smaller diameter pulley as well. However, this may all change tomorrow if I find I can relocate the PS pump down low, and the A/C up high......Rich

Yes I know there is not much room, I thought about extending the compressor out to the side as much as I can and using a stand alone idler from a late eighties or early nineties Honda Accord similar to this but in a V-belt pulley.

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mach4 · #8 07-04-2012, 11:46 PM

Here's the compressor I got today with the York-adapter style bracket. This came off an RX-7 and appears to be aftermarket. I believe I've seen RX-7/Sanden brackets somewhere.

Which is kind of an adaptation of this generic mount.

I don't have room on mine to use this kind of adapter, but I believe that other body configurations just might.

The other type that is readily available is this, which is obviously designed to work with an idler pulley of some sort. The Sanden just mounts solid to the bracket and belt tension is handled somewhere else.

Here is an idler wheel off of my dead 380SL engine. It's dirt simple and would likely work with any stout flat plate bracket as it just tightens down and is held with friction. At this point I don't recall what mounting points are available on the front of the engine, so maybe the idler would have to be part of the main Sanden bracket.

I don't think the oil pan can be used as a mounting point. Just too much vibration, weight and stress.

ROLLGUY · #9 07-04-2012, 11:56 PM

After looking at the photos of the brackets on the Klima site, I wonder if the stock aluminum R4 bracket is retained? If so, I was under the assumption that there is not enough room.....Rich

bricktron · #10 07-04-2012, 11:33 PM

rich, great info! i'm sure there will be interest if you can fabricate a good solution to this problem.

Air&Road · #11 07-05-2012, 11:43 AM

I'll try to remember to make a few pictures of the setup on one of my Euro 240D's when I get home.

colincoon · #12 07-05-2012, 09:57 PM

Wow, that looks really good!

I just rebuilt my AC with a brand new R4 last year and it's still cold, but I would buy one of these in a heartbeat even now considering that I'd be able to use a Sanden.

ROLLGUY · #13 07-05-2012, 10:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by colincoon

Wow, that looks really good!

I just rebuilt my AC with a brand new R4 last year and it's still cold, but I would buy one of these in a heartbeat even now considering that I'd be able to use a Sanden.

If (actually when) I get these made, they will probably sell for around $150 including the idler and bolts. All you would need to supply is the compressor and hoses. I still have not addressed the oil cooler hose mounting yet, but that will be done when I mount the plate in the car (maybe on Saturday).
The bracket will not be as nice looking as the one from Klima Design Works, but it is also NOT $400!

ROLLGUY · #14 07-05-2012, 10:34 PM

Here is the measurement of the compressor:

4" from the block (at the pivot hole for the R4) to the furthest part of the compressor.

Another thing that I need to find out, is if the Sanden can be run upside down (hose connections facing down). I am sure there won't be any room for the hoses with them facing up, as that is the exact spot that the cooler hoses go. I may need to invest in a "K" head with rear facing ports.

mach4 · #15 07-05-2012, 10:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ROLLGUY

Another thing that I need to find out, is if the Sanden can be run upside down (hose connections facing down). I am sure there won't be any room for the hoses with them facing up, as that is the exact spot that the cooler hoses go. I may need to invest in a "K" head with rear facing ports.

Sanden cannot be run upside down. They can be run up to 90 degrees from vertical as shown below.

If you go with the aircraft fittings for oil cooler like I did on the 380 project, you could just cut the hard lines off further back and run longer braided stainless lines that would be easy to route around the A/C lines.

For my application, based on your measurements, I don't think I'm going to have room. If I'm measuring correctly that will but me in contact with the subframe mount on the fender well. The 123 should be just fine though - lots more room.