Parts Catalog Accessories Catalog How To Articles Tech Forums
Call Pelican Parts at 888-280-7799
Shopping Cart Cart | Project List | Order Status | Help




Go Back   PeachParts Mercedes ShopForum > Technical Information and Support > Diesel Discussion

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
  #1  
Old 02-03-2013, 10:14 PM
ROLLGUY's Avatar
ROLLGUY
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 4,658
Gen. II-616/ 617 Sanden style A/C Compressor Mounting Kit For Sale + Install Inst.

Generation II-616/ 617 Sanden style A/C Compressor Mounting Kit For Sale + Installation Instructions.


The price is $180.00 + $20.00 Priority Mail S/H (insurance included).
The kit comes with the main mounting bracket, belt, tension adjusting brackets, oil cooler lines mounting bracket, and all necessary fasteners.
I can only accept CA$H as payment sent to my P.O. Box with delivery confirmation and insurance.
Please private message to order and/or go to:Gen 2 Sanden/617 kit- Want list started

In addition to this kit, you will need a Sanden style compressor, hoses (made by air conditioning shop), and the system evacuated and charged.
Also, please use this thread for all installation questions.
The following posts will have detailed instructions and photos.
Reply With Quote
  #2  
Old 02-04-2013, 01:00 AM
ROLLGUY's Avatar
ROLLGUY
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 4,658
Installation instructions

Here are the instructions for installing the bracket, compressor and tension adjustment parts. Sorry for the crummy photos. They were not taken with the parts on an engine, but you get the idea (I may replace them with the plate mounted on an engine if I get a chance).
The first thing to do is remove the old R4 compressor and aluminum mounting bracket.
You will need to retain one long compressor bolt, and the dual oil cooler hose strap, as they will be re-used.
Mount the plate on the engine using one long bolt (used) and one washer and lock nut (provided), and three 8mm bolts and lock washers.
Install all four fasteners before tightening them fully.

Next, install the tension adjusting brackets, adjusting screw, and spacer as shown. Place the washer against the aluminum:

Next, mount the compressor on the outboard side of the tabs with the nuts facing towards each other (again, with the washers against the aluminum):

Install the slotted adjusting bracket to the plate with the short bolt. The finished product should look like this:

Be sure to tighten the top two bolts just snug so the compressor can swing. After installing the belt, tighten the long adjusting screw so the belt has the proper tension, and then tighten the jamb nut. You can now tighten all the bolts.
Install the oil cooler line bracket in the power steering pump bracket using the two factory bolts. Re-use the dual hose strap and tighten the bolt (provided):
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 02-04-2013, 08:22 AM
BenzDieselTuner's Avatar
Gro▀meister, OBK #7
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Southwestern Germany / Southwest Florida
Posts: 301
i believe a customer of mine will be buying that kit from you......he has been looking for exactly that kit, to replace his clunky compressor with......time for a real reliable compressor...
__________________
-Justin

I believe in extreme automotive perfection whenever possible.......there is no such thing as "It doesn't matter" !!!

1985 300 CDT - 287k miles

1980 240 D - 340k miles

With extras !!

http://facebook.com/BenzDieselTuner

http://facebook.com/SWFLAlternativeFuelsClub

http://facebook.com/SWFLBenzClub

http://SWFLBenzClub.com
Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old 02-18-2013, 12:04 PM
daw_two's Avatar
diesel enthusiast
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Germantown, TN
Posts: 5,432
Hey ROLLGUY ---

Can you tell me which Sanden compressor you have in this picture?

Thanks for the great post showing how to do the mounting!!!





Quote:
Originally Posted by ROLLGUY View Post
Here are the instructions for installing the bracket, compressor and tension adjustment parts. Sorry for the crummy photos. They were not taken with the parts on an engine, but you get the idea (I may replace them with the plate mounted on an engine if I get a chance).
The first thing to do is remove the old R4 compressor and aluminum mounting bracket.
You will need to retain one long compressor bolt, and the dual oil cooler hose strap, as they will be re-used.
Mount the plate on the engine using one long bolt (used) and one washer and lock nut (provided), and three 8mm bolts and lock washers.
Install all four fasteners before tightening them fully.

Next, install the tension adjusting brackets, adjusting screw, and spacer as shown. Place the washer against the aluminum:

Next, mount the compressor on the outboard side of the tabs with the nuts facing towards each other (again, with the washers against the aluminum):

Install the slotted adjusting bracket to the plate with the short bolt. The finished product should look like this:

Be sure to tighten the top two bolts just snug so the compressor can swing. After installing the belt, tighten the long adjusting screw so the belt has the proper tension, and then tighten the jamb nut. You can now tighten all the bolts.
Install the oil cooler line bracket in the power steering pump bracket using the two factory bolts. Re-use the dual hose strap and tighten the bolt (provided):
__________________
daw_two
Germantown, TN

Links:
Current Car --- 05/2012 1984 300D Light Ivory, Red interior
Cluster Needles Paint
New Old Stock (NOS) parts

Past:
3/2008 1986 300SDL "Coda"
04/2010 1965 190D(c) "Ben"
& many more
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old 02-19-2013, 12:21 AM
ROLLGUY's Avatar
ROLLGUY
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 4,658
Quote:
Originally Posted by daw_two View Post
Hey ROLLGUY ---

Can you tell me which Sanden compressor you have in this picture?

Thanks for the great post showing how to do the mounting!!!
It's a U 4426. It has a pad type hose mounting, but it was only $10 at the swap meet and is new, so I bought it. I can always change the head to something usable.
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old 02-19-2013, 09:53 AM
daw_two's Avatar
diesel enthusiast
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Germantown, TN
Posts: 5,432
Quote:
Originally Posted by ROLLGUY View Post
It's a U 4426. It has a pad type hose mounting, but it was only $10 at the swap meet and is new, so I bought it. I can always change the head to something usable.
Thanks! What type of hose connection is preferred?
__________________
daw_two
Germantown, TN

Links:
Current Car --- 05/2012 1984 300D Light Ivory, Red interior
Cluster Needles Paint
New Old Stock (NOS) parts

Past:
3/2008 1986 300SDL "Coda"
04/2010 1965 190D(c) "Ben"
& many more
Reply With Quote
  #7  
Old 02-19-2013, 10:15 AM
ROLLGUY's Avatar
ROLLGUY
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 4,658
Quote:
Originally Posted by daw_two View Post
Thanks! What type of hose connection is preferred?
O ring
Reply With Quote
  #8  
Old 03-29-2013, 03:42 PM
ROLLGUY's Avatar
ROLLGUY
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 4,658
Everyone that has purchased a kit please read!

Although the testing of the Gen 1 bracket on my SD has been successful and without issues, the Gen 2 bracket has had some issues that I need those of you that have one to be aware of. A while back, I noticed some rattling from the engine bay and found a broken bolt on the top mounting tab of the compressor. I replaced it, and a few weeks later, the nut was gone. Just yesterday I was showing someone the bracket, and I noticed that the nut on the long bolt (12mm) was gone. I mistakenly have been using/providing nylon locking nuts with the kit, but have found that they are backing out and/or breaking (most likely because of heat). I am going to supply all metal lock nuts with the kits from now on. If you have a kit and have not installed it yet, I suggest you (1) PM me your address and I will send you replacements, or (2) go to your local fastener supplier and purchase them. For the Gen 1 kit you will need 4- 3/8 24 all metal lock nuts, and the Gen 2 takes 8- 3/8 all metal lock nuts, and one M12 lock nut. Actually, the only place the Gen 2 really needs them is on the long bolt (M12), and the two compressor to plate bolts. If you would like me to send you the nuts, please send me a private message with your address and which bracket you have, and I would be happy to send them. If you choose to just buy them, I am ok with that as well. Even though you may not have the nut problems I have been having, it is a good idea to replace them anyway. Thanks in advance for your understanding, Rich
Reply With Quote
  #9  
Old 03-29-2013, 11:14 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Out in the Boonies of Hot, Dry, Dusty, Windy Nevada
Posts: 9,585
Thanks for the up date Rich. I`ll just go to the hardware store for them.


Charlie
__________________
there were three HP ratings on the OM616...

1) Not much power
2) Even less power
3) Not nearly enough power!! 240D w/auto




Anyone that thinks a 240D is slow drives too fast.

80 240D Naturally Exasperated, 4-Spd 388k DD 150mph spedo 3:58 Diff

We are advised to NOT judge ALL Muslims by the actions of a few lunatics, but we are encouraged to judge ALL gun owners by the actions of a few lunatics. Funny how that works
Reply With Quote
  #10  
Old 04-04-2013, 12:39 AM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Sacramento, CA
Posts: 1,906
Rich,
Haven't installed mine yet (son has car). I don't mind going to Ace for the lock nuts, but unsure what to get. By "all metal lock nut" do you mean the type that have deformed threads on one end, usually from swaged dimples in the nut, or do you mean a spring type lock washer? The deformed nuts might be hard to find in metric. Do you have an Ace Hardware PN or what tray to look in?
Reply With Quote
  #11  
Old 04-04-2013, 01:29 AM
ROLLGUY's Avatar
ROLLGUY
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 4,658
Quote:
Originally Posted by BillGrissom View Post
Rich,
Haven't installed mine yet (son has car). I don't mind going to Ace for the lock nuts, but unsure what to get. By "all metal lock nut" do you mean the type that have deformed threads on one end, usually from swaged dimples in the nut, or do you mean a spring type lock washer? The deformed nuts might be hard to find in metric. Do you have an Ace Hardware PN or what tray to look in?
Yes the deformed all metal lock nut. You will need the M12 and 8- 3/8 24 if you have the Gen 2, only 4- 3/8 24 nuts if you have Gen 1. You could get by with just using all metal lock nuts on the compressor to plate bolts, as the others are not subject to as much heat.
Reply With Quote
  #12  
Old 04-04-2013, 08:40 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Hendersonville, NC
Posts: 2
Rich,

I finally had my bracket installed yesterday. My mechanic was very impressed with your bracket. He seems to think that my "Sanden bracket problems" are over.

For those who don't know my story, approximately 3 years ago, I decided that I wanted a Sanden compressor on my 1985 W123. I found a guy on eBay who was selling 2 CD's describing how to install his custom made Sanden bracket and also how to install a parallel flow condenser on a W123. I did an internet search but could find no other source of this type of bracket. Rather than take a chance on having someone else screw up the installation, I decided to drive all the way from North Carolina to Arizona to have the installation done by the "W123 expert."

The parallel flow condenser worked out fine but after installing his custom bracket the expert informed me that one of the ears of the Sanden broke off but "it wouldn't be a problem since 3 bolts would be sufficient." Everything seemed fine after the installation and I made it back home with no issues. A/C was ice cold. Then, a few months later, I heard a rattle and took the car to my mechanic. It seemed that the expert's bracket broke and required re-welding. My mechanic stated that, in his opinion, the bracket design was poor. Over the last 3 years, I have made six trips to my shop to have this bracket re-welded. I hesitated to take the car on any long trips, since I had now way of knowing when a problem would occur.

Finally, I found Jim's bracket on this thread. I am hoping that my nightmare is finally over. I am going to try to attach some photos of the retired bracket. In hindsight, I feel that the broken ear my have contributed to the problem. It may have caused increased vibration.

Thanks again, Jim.
Attached Thumbnails
Gen. II-616/ 617 Sanden style A/C Compressor Mounting Kit For Sale + Install Inst.-mercbrack1.jpg   Gen. II-616/ 617 Sanden style A/C Compressor Mounting Kit For Sale + Install Inst.-mercbrack2.jpg   Gen. II-616/ 617 Sanden style A/C Compressor Mounting Kit For Sale + Install Inst.-mercbrack3.jpg   Gen. II-616/ 617 Sanden style A/C Compressor Mounting Kit For Sale + Install Inst.-mercbrack4.jpg  
Reply With Quote
  #13  
Old 04-12-2013, 12:32 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Sacramento, CA
Posts: 1,906
RollGuy's bracket looks well-made (haven't installed mine), but so does the other one in mountainmike47's photos, though the photos don't show how it looks installed on the engine. Broken Sanden ears is a common problem among hot rodders who use those compressors. Best to use a proven kit when you can. Nothing beats testing (my day job is a test engineer). RollGuy above found a slight problem in testing, with an easy fix, but left unfixed would likely result in similar rattling and broken parts. Loosening bolts and metal fatigue from vibration are hard to predict without testing.
Reply With Quote
  #14  
Old 04-12-2013, 10:00 PM
ROLLGUY's Avatar
ROLLGUY
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 4,658
Quote:
Originally Posted by BillGrissom View Post
RollGuy's bracket looks well-made (haven't installed mine), but so does the other one in mountainmike47's photos, though the photos don't show how it looks installed on the engine. Broken Sanden ears is a common problem among hot rodders who use those compressors. Best to use a proven kit when you can. Nothing beats testing (my day job is a test engineer). RollGuy above found a slight problem in testing, with an easy fix, but left unfixed would likely result in similar rattling and broken parts. Loosening bolts and metal fatigue from vibration are hard to predict without testing.
That is one reason I have updated the fasteners. I am also working on an additional bracket to help secure the lower part of the main bracket. The original engineers in Germany designed the fasteners and brackets on these engines to withstand intense vibration. Everyone knows that a Diesel engine will try to vibrate anything bolted to it, and the aftermarket Sanden bracket is no exception. I have tested the Gen 1 bracket (on my 300SD) for 2 seasons so far, and it still works great. The Sanden with the Gen2 bracket on my 240 has been installed for the past 6 months, and has had a few fastener problems (thus the reason for the updated fasteners), but seems to be fine now. I can only rely on others that have installed these kits to help with testing, in that they let me know right away of any problems that arise. I am more than happy to resolve any problems in an expedient manner. For my regular job, I rely on word of mouth to get more jobs. I want to do quality work so I can keep earning a living. I have been very busy for years, and am thankful that I still have plenty of work. The manufacturing of these aftermarket parts is no different. I want to make available the best and least expensive parts that I can. I have other ideas for parts in my head (trap-ox bypass pipe, radiator hose nipple guard etc), and hope to make them available one day as well....Rich
Reply With Quote
  #15  
Old 04-12-2013, 11:49 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Sacramento, CA
Posts: 1,906
I found the 12 mm coarse all-metal lock nut at Ace ($0.85), along with the 3/8"-24 nuts ($0.53 ea). They are in the pull-out trays. Didn't get the PN's since the guy grabbed them quickly. I didn't get the allen-head screws since wasn't sure that upgrade is required. I'll find out, assuming my son drives the car home.
Reply With Quote
Reply

Bookmarks

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On




All times are GMT -4. The time now is 08:22 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0
Copyright 2011 Pelican Parts - Posts may be archived for display on the Peach Parts or Pelican Parts Website -    DMCA Registered Agent Contact Page