Gen. II-616/ 617 Sanden style A/C Compressor Mounting Kit For Sale + Install Inst. - Page 2 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

ROLLGUY · #1 06-03-2013, 07:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dieseldiehard

PM sent asking about hoses.
I have a Sanden.
I need to obtain the condenser so I sent an Email to ackits.com, they are very helpful and hopefully will find something suitable, I know they sold one to another Forum member so I would like to get the same size and I would rather use them than eBay.

As long as the condenser is NOT wider than 20", it should fit. A few inches are needed for the hoses to have room to connect. Most of the PF condensers available now are universal units that are made in China, so chances are you will be getting the exact same condenser, regardless of who you buy it from.

Pants · #2 11-20-2013, 02:02 PM

Rich,

Why was the PF condenser oriented with hose connections placed on the passenger side? Was there not enough room to route them more directly to the compressor & dryer on the driver's side (and thus without crossing over the engine)?
[QUOTE=ROLLGUY;3150684]I just got finished installing a parallel flow condenser and hose kit in my neighbors 300D. The 16X20 parallel flow condenser was purchased on ebay motors.

The rest of the hoses and compressor:

[URL="http://s84.photobucket.com/user/rollguy/media/Sanden%20617/100_1590.jpg.html"]

ROLLGUY · #3 11-20-2013, 02:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Pants

Rich,

Why was the PF condenser oriented with hose connections placed on the passenger side? Was there not enough room to route them more directly to the compressor & dryer on the driver's side (and thus without crossing over the engine)?

On a 123, the factory condenser connections are on the passenger side.
I could have put them on the other side, but I would have had to run the hose from the condenser to the drier from one side to the other. If I remounted the drier on the other side, I would have to run the high pressure hose (thin blue) to the driver side. So either way, a hose will need to cross from one side to the other. Fortunately for you and anyone else with a 126, everything is on the driver side (condenser connections, drier, compressor, evaporator connections).

bricktron · #4 06-03-2013, 03:36 PM

great work, rich. the more of the kit you can supply, the easier this mod sounds!

for a non-AC car, how many parts are needed inboard of the firewall? is an AC car's airbox and AC controls the extent of it?

ROLLGUY · #5 06-03-2013, 03:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bricktron

great work, rich. the more of the kit you can supply, the easier this mod sounds!

for a non-AC car, how many parts are needed inboard of the firewall? is an AC car's airbox and AC controls the extent of it?

I am not sure, as I have never seen a non-A/C 'Benz with a 616/617. I can only assume you would need an A/C equipped car as a donor for the parts.

bricktron · #6 06-03-2013, 09:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ROLLGUY

I am not sure, as I have never seen a non-A/C 'Benz with a 616/617. I can only assume you would need an A/C equipped car as a donor for the parts.

fair enough and thanks. this post by SurfRodder is the best explanation i have found so far: Add air conditioning to W123?

Doktor Bert · #7 06-03-2013, 08:03 PM

I'm on my third R4 compressor. The original went over 300,000 miles and receipts show it was replaced at ********e Montclair, California in the early 1990's. I resealed this one twice, but it never went out mechanically. It was smashed in my son's April 2006 wreck on SR 99 near Kingsburg.

The 'new' R4 was pulled from a W116 with a bad engine and resealed/inspected. It's been running now for about 60,000 miles.

I think the fact that I only run R-12 and precisely measure my oil and refrigerant has a lot to do with my compressor longevity.

When this one goes out, I may do the Sanden swap. The pieces look good...

HINT: If you need an R4, and cannot afford the Sanden, look for the 'service replacement' model easily found on Cadillacs in Pik-N-Pull. It is easy to flip the front bearing retainer and replace the front seal. You pull the front retainer and swap in the new seal with it on the bench, then use the seal protector and install the retainer back in place.

zeke · #8 06-23-2013, 03:51 AM

Can anyone tell me the correct belt size for a OM616? I asked Roll guy, but he has been out of pocket. Hoping to get the install finished tomorrow if I can get the right belt

bricktron · #9 06-23-2013, 10:54 AM

zeke: i cannot be sure, but here is what the pelican told me to order for a 617:
Belt - A/C - 13 X 925 Brand: Contitech (1985 Mercedes-Benz 300D Sedan)

DeliveryValve · #10 06-23-2013, 01:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by zeke

Can anyone tell me the correct belt size for a OM616? I asked Roll guy, but he has been out of pocket. Hoping to get the install finished tomorrow if I can get the right belt

See Rollguy's quote below

Quote:

Originally Posted by ROLLGUY

Along with the above fastener update, I have found that the belt that was sent with the kits is too long. The 15385 belts I had were for the Gen 1 kit. The proper belt is a 15375 (one inch shorter). If your adjustment screw is all the way out, your belt is too long. The photo below is with the long belt:
...

Rollguy uses a standard American belt sizing. If you were using a Contitech belt in MM, I believe or guess the belt size would be around 13 x 960 or 13 x 965.

zeke · #11 06-23-2013, 05:56 PM

Thanks, I missed that. I got the 15375 belt, but the suction hose seems too short to reach the compressor.....I guess I need to take it to a hydraulic shop and have them make it a little longer?

I have never had a hose fabricated before...do I take the hose and car in and they can measure and rebuild it?

ROLLGUY · #12 06-23-2013, 06:38 PM

Sorry all, I have been gone for the past few days. The belt in the kits I sell is for the 617, and for the Sanden compressor retrofit kit. Factory specs are no longer applicable. I put a used belt on my 616 when I installed the kit because I realized it needed to be shorter. The belt I put on was a 17375. It rides in the drive pulley groove just fine, but rides proud of the compressor pulley a little. I imagine that a 15370 would work, but I have not tried it. All this to say I really don't know the proper size belt for the 616. I have not had an order for a kit to be installed on a 616 before Charlie (Charmalu) bought one, but he has not installed it yet. Zeke seems to be the second (that I am aware of). PM on the way Zeke........Rich

zeke · #13 06-23-2013, 09:06 PM

ROLLGUY: Here is the photo of the hard line and soft line junction. The hard line fits in the brackets perfectly (First MB I have had with BOTH brackets working)!

ROLLGUY · #14 06-24-2013, 12:27 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by zeke

ROLLGUY: Here is the photo of the hard line and soft line junction. The hard line fits in the brackets perfectly (First MB I have had with BOTH brackets working)!

It seems that the pipe is in fact at least 2 inches higher than the pipe on my 617. On mine, the fitting is very close to the P S pump casting. It appears that I need to make 2 different hoses, one for the older style (higher), and one for the newer (lower).

DeliveryValve · #15 06-24-2013, 01:22 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ROLLGUY

It seems that the pipe is in fact at least 2 inches higher than the pipe on my 617. On mine, the fitting is very close to the P S pump casting. It appears that I need to make 2 different hoses, one for the older style (higher), and one for the newer (lower).

The older N/A 616/617 are like that. You can however retrofit the older style line with the newer style line if you get the proper length rubber hose leading to the tx valve.

.