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  #136  
Old 08-22-2016, 10:10 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BillGrissom View Post
I found my Sanden bracket cracked, after ~3 years. I had wondered where a rattling sound was coming from, just off idle, and finally found it got much quieter when I turned the AC compressor off. I had wondered why I had to turn the adjuster bolt all the way in, indeed had to move the lock nut to the other side and still got the belt barely tight.

As best I can tell, the crack runs all the way across, under the top tube. I can see the 2 parts of the bracket move as I push on the belt. Sorry for the poorly focused photo. I'll try to get the camera to focus correctly next time I have it up on ramps. Since summer is ending, I removed the belt for now to avoid any catastrophe. I'll remove the bracket when I have my spare vehicle running, and finish other priorities, maybe before next Spring.

One exacerbating condition is that originally I didn't have the extra support bracket to the upper oil pan that Rollguy later added. That was to stop shaking, which could cause such fatigue cracks. Even when I added it, there was a large un-parallel gap and I kept finding the washers & bolt I installed gone, and don't know how long since my son had the car out of town some years. I finally got some jam nuts that held. Thus, no telling how long the main bracket might have been shaking too much.

In my experience, bracket cracks are common. Indeed, it is hard to design one for infinite fatigue life. Since steel, I should be able to effect a weld repair, and beef up that area. Others should watch this are on their bracket and report, so Rollguy can make any needed design changes for the next customers.
Thanks for sharing your experience, it does help to make a better product. Although I have had to replace a couple brackets from the original batch, I believe they all broke because of loose fasteners. If one fastener is loose, it allows the bracket to vibrate and crack. There is a lot of leverage on the compressor pulley, and it takes a solidly mounted compressor to keep parts from breaking. The newest batch of brackets seem to be working just fine. They are painted silver instead of black. Another thing that has helped keep everything together is the all metal lock nuts. The nylon lock nuts that came with the first batch of kits proved to be problematic. I have gotten complaints that the all metal lock nuts are hard to tighten on the bolts, but I have to stress how important they are because of the constant vibration these engines produce. Even though the latest batch of plates seem to be holding up pretty good, I have thought of welding a piece of angle iron on the back side of the plate across the area that has the tendency to break. I also have plans to make the next batch of plates out of 3/8 material instead of 5/16 (I still have a bunch left, so it may be a while). My desire is to continually improve this product. Things like this only help to do so, and I desire continue to provide quality products to this small part of the automotive world.......Rich

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  #137  
Old 08-22-2016, 06:04 PM
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Disqo, It is the high-pressure hose that departs the compressor underneath and runs to the condenser, following a convoluted path up the passenger side of the engine, then down to the condenser. As many, I re-routed mine straight across in both my 1985 (Sanden) and 1984 (R4). I secured the new hose in the middle w/ screw clamp to bottom of radiator support (thru existing slot) w/ larger hose piece between to avoid cutting into it. I didn't bother installing a HP port, since I figured I would someday re-plumb w/ a modern condenser, plus I fill refrigerant more based on volume (3 cans) and judge more by the low-side pressure. I did install a tiny PRV in the Sanden to vent if >290 psig (?). Technically illegal to vent any refrigerant per EPA's often bizarre thinking, but I use hydrocarbon which isn't an environmental concern (I sleep well).
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  #138  
Old 08-22-2016, 06:19 PM
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Originally Posted by ROLLGUY View Post
I believe they all broke because of loose fasteners. If one fastener is loose, it allows the bracket to vibrate and crack. There is a lot of leverage on the compressor pulley, and it takes a solidly mounted compressor to keep parts from breaking. ... thought of welding a piece of angle iron on the back side of the plate across the area that has the tendency to break. .....Rich
Yes, I recall reports of early users finding the nylon lock nuts on the two lower pivot ears had unscrewed. Reading that, I used metal lock nuts from Ace, I recall on the initial install (don't recall ever removing compressor). I also substituted an allen bolt on one since those pivot bolts proved challenging to get a wrench on. I always loosened, then retightened the pivot bolts when adjusting belt tension. No way to know when the crack started, and once started they almost always slowly grow. The belt seeming too loose started ~1 yr ago, so it was probably mostly cracked thru by then.

The block mounting points make a bracket design challenging, since the belt force is cantilevered way out (think of a person on a diving board). Max force probably acts on that upper, front bracket tube where mine cracked. That is why M-B had to make the R4 aluminum bracket so large w/ big webs. I agree w/ welding an L or U angle on the backside to add "webbing", and is what I will try. In engineering, you want a large "moment of intertia" for the cross-section (about the bending axis), which is why I-beams have their shape. Of course, making the plate thicker is one way, but at the cost of much more weight. Anyway, should be an easy repair once I get around to it. This isn't like the cracks in the new Oakland Bay Bridge (NorCal people know that story). It is in the 80's this week and next here, so I'm not suffering.
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  #139  
Old 10-02-2016, 12:26 PM
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I couldn't wait until Spring to remove the Sanden bracket since shaking too much at idle. Turns out it was worse than I thought, w/ multiple cracks, as shown, plus the bracket to the upper oil pump broken in two. Had I left as is, the compressor might have totally fallen off and caused damage. I had removed the AC belt, but that wasn't enough. Notice that one crack went thru the large hole I drilled to save weight. That hole might have precipitated the failure, so others may have different experiences. I assumed that region would have no effect since the lower right region is just unsupported hanging weight. As most know, a crack anywhere can escalate to cause more failures, like ripping a phone book in two by staggering the pages to fail one at a time.

I decided it would be too hard to repair the bracket, w/ high risk it wouldn't fit since I don't have a fixture to keep the parts aligned while welding.

I decided to return to the R-4 compressor for several reasons - have a new one on the shelf, factory bracket is a proven design, easy bolt-up since I kept the factory "GM Pad" hose, but will lose refrigerant, R-4 works fine in my 1984, can use the Sanden on one of my 60's Mopar's. Indeed, I may be able to cut the Rollguy bracket and re-use on one of the those cars via their York bracket.
Attached Thumbnails
Gen. II-616/ 617 Sanden style A/C Compressor Mounting Kit For Sale + Install Inst.-cracked-bracket.jpg  
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  #140  
Old 10-06-2016, 09:37 PM
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Finally about to charge my system. Anyone have any thoughts on how much freon with the conversion and a parallel flow condenser? Thanks!


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  #141  
Old 10-08-2016, 05:35 PM
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In my 300D's, I start w/ 2 cans, which are 16 oz ea for R12 or 6 oz for the Duracool I use. I usually end up adding a 3rd can to get the pressures right. Whether R4 or Sanden shouldn't matter since no liquid refrigerant is in the compressor.
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  #142  
Old 03-05-2017, 06:52 PM
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Have you made any 3/8" mounting plates yet?
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  #143  
Old 03-05-2017, 10:02 PM
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Originally Posted by clearstoker View Post
Have you made any 3/8" mounting plates yet?
They are 5/16 now, and I have about 25 left. When those run out, I will tool up for 3/8.
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  #144  
Old 05-01-2017, 02:51 PM
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Rollguy, I tried sending you a PM but it does not show up in my sent folder. so I thought I would just ask here. Feel free to email me an answer to von@vonsmog.com if you like.

I am interested in your Sanden compressor mounting kit, and have a few questions. What is the price and can I use paypal to pay. Hate sending cash in the mail. Also I see there has been some cracking issues with some of them, is there any kind of warranty with the kit?
Thanks, Von
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  #145  
Old 05-01-2017, 04:02 PM
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RG is in Europe right now. He does not do paypal.
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  #146  
Old 05-04-2017, 07:31 AM
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Originally Posted by engatwork View Post
RG is in Europe right now. He does not do paypal.
any idea when he will be back? Would like to get my AC up and running soon for a cross country road trip coming up.
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  #147  
Old 05-04-2017, 08:41 AM
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Reading thru his thread he has been posting for the last week or so it sounds like he is headed home today.
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  #148  
Old 05-04-2017, 05:01 PM
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Originally Posted by engatwork View Post
Reading thru his thread he has been posting for the last week or so it sounds like he is headed home today.
Yes sir, just left the airport headed home. I may be sleeping for the next few days, this traveling takes a lot out of me......Rich
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  #149  
Old 05-17-2017, 03:08 AM
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Sent you a pm rollguy regarding my situation with my W116.
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  #150  
Old 05-17-2017, 06:05 AM
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For everyone that has installed the Sanden compressor with the stock condenser what did you find was the optimum refrigerant charge?

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