Gen. II-616/ 617 Sanden style A/C Compressor Mounting Kit For Sale + Install Inst. - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

ROLLGUY · #1 02-03-2013, 10:14 PM

Generation II-616/ 617 Sanden style A/C Compressor Mounting Kit For Sale + Installation Instructions.

The price is $180.00 + $20.00 Priority Mail S/H (insurance included).
The kit comes with the main mounting bracket, belt, tension adjusting brackets, oil cooler lines mounting bracket, and all necessary fasteners.
I can only accept CA$H as payment sent to my P.O. Box with delivery confirmation and insurance.
Please private message to order and/or go to:Gen 2 Sanden/617 kit- Want list started

In addition to this kit, you will need a Sanden style compressor, hoses (made by air conditioning shop), and the system evacuated and charged.
Also, please use this thread for all installation questions.
The following posts will have detailed instructions and photos.

BenzDieselTuner · #2 02-04-2013, 08:22 AM

i believe a customer of mine will be buying that kit from you......he has been looking for exactly that kit, to replace his clunky compressor with......time for a real reliable compressor...

BillGrissom · #3 04-04-2013, 12:39 AM

Rich,
Haven't installed mine yet (son has car). I don't mind going to Ace for the lock nuts, but unsure what to get. By "all metal lock nut" do you mean the type that have deformed threads on one end, usually from swaged dimples in the nut, or do you mean a spring type lock washer? The deformed nuts might be hard to find in metric. Do you have an Ace Hardware PN or what tray to look in?

ROLLGUY · #4 04-04-2013, 01:29 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BillGrissom

Rich,
Haven't installed mine yet (son has car). I don't mind going to Ace for the lock nuts, but unsure what to get. By "all metal lock nut" do you mean the type that have deformed threads on one end, usually from swaged dimples in the nut, or do you mean a spring type lock washer? The deformed nuts might be hard to find in metric. Do you have an Ace Hardware PN or what tray to look in?

Yes the deformed all metal lock nut. You will need the M12 and 8- 3/8 24 if you have the Gen 2, only 4- 3/8 24 nuts if you have Gen 1. You could get by with just using all metal lock nuts on the compressor to plate bolts, as the others are not subject to as much heat.

mountainmike47 · #5 04-04-2013, 08:40 PM

Rich,

I finally had my bracket installed yesterday. My mechanic was very impressed with your bracket. He seems to think that my "Sanden bracket problems" are over.

For those who don't know my story, approximately 3 years ago, I decided that I wanted a Sanden compressor on my 1985 W123. I found a guy on eBay who was selling 2 CD's describing how to install his custom made Sanden bracket and also how to install a parallel flow condenser on a W123. I did an internet search but could find no other source of this type of bracket. Rather than take a chance on having someone else screw up the installation, I decided to drive all the way from North Carolina to Arizona to have the installation done by the "W123 expert."

The parallel flow condenser worked out fine but after installing his custom bracket the expert informed me that one of the ears of the Sanden broke off but "it wouldn't be a problem since 3 bolts would be sufficient." Everything seemed fine after the installation and I made it back home with no issues. A/C was ice cold. Then, a few months later, I heard a rattle and took the car to my mechanic. It seemed that the expert's bracket broke and required re-welding. My mechanic stated that, in his opinion, the bracket design was poor. Over the last 3 years, I have made six trips to my shop to have this bracket re-welded. I hesitated to take the car on any long trips, since I had now way of knowing when a problem would occur.

Finally, I found Jim's bracket on this thread. I am hoping that my nightmare is finally over. I am going to try to attach some photos of the retired bracket. In hindsight, I feel that the broken ear my have contributed to the problem. It may have caused increased vibration.

Thanks again, Jim.

BillGrissom · #6 04-12-2013, 12:32 PM

RollGuy's bracket looks well-made (haven't installed mine), but so does the other one in mountainmike47's photos, though the photos don't show how it looks installed on the engine. Broken Sanden ears is a common problem among hot rodders who use those compressors. Best to use a proven kit when you can. Nothing beats testing (my day job is a test engineer). RollGuy above found a slight problem in testing, with an easy fix, but left unfixed would likely result in similar rattling and broken parts. Loosening bolts and metal fatigue from vibration are hard to predict without testing.

ROLLGUY · #7 04-12-2013, 10:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BillGrissom

RollGuy's bracket looks well-made (haven't installed mine), but so does the other one in mountainmike47's photos, though the photos don't show how it looks installed on the engine. Broken Sanden ears is a common problem among hot rodders who use those compressors. Best to use a proven kit when you can. Nothing beats testing (my day job is a test engineer). RollGuy above found a slight problem in testing, with an easy fix, but left unfixed would likely result in similar rattling and broken parts. Loosening bolts and metal fatigue from vibration are hard to predict without testing.

That is one reason I have updated the fasteners. I am also working on an additional bracket to help secure the lower part of the main bracket. The original engineers in Germany designed the fasteners and brackets on these engines to withstand intense vibration. Everyone knows that a Diesel engine will try to vibrate anything bolted to it, and the aftermarket Sanden bracket is no exception. I have tested the Gen 1 bracket (on my 300SD) for 2 seasons so far, and it still works great. The Sanden with the Gen2 bracket on my 240 has been installed for the past 6 months, and has had a few fastener problems (thus the reason for the updated fasteners), but seems to be fine now. I can only rely on others that have installed these kits to help with testing, in that they let me know right away of any problems that arise. I am more than happy to resolve any problems in an expedient manner. For my regular job, I rely on word of mouth to get more jobs. I want to do quality work so I can keep earning a living. I have been very busy for years, and am thankful that I still have plenty of work. The manufacturing of these aftermarket parts is no different. I want to make available the best and least expensive parts that I can. I have other ideas for parts in my head (trap-ox bypass pipe, radiator hose nipple guard etc), and hope to make them available one day as well....Rich

BillGrissom · #8 04-12-2013, 11:49 PM

I found the 12 mm coarse all-metal lock nut at Ace ($0.85), along with the 3/8"-24 nuts ($0.53 ea). They are in the pull-out trays. Didn't get the PN's since the guy grabbed them quickly. I didn't get the allen-head screws since wasn't sure that upgrade is required. I'll find out, assuming my son drives the car home.

ROLLGUY · #9 04-13-2013, 12:36 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BillGrissom

I didn't get the allen-head screws since wasn't sure that upgrade is required. I'll find out, assuming my son drives the car home.

The others don't need to be allen bolts, but the 2 compressor bolts should be.
You will find it much easier to install the inboard compressor bolt if it is an allen. The 2 bolts I now supply are alloy, and are stronger than grade 8. Grade 8 are just fine, but the standard hardware bolts (grade 3) are not good enough. All the bolts in the kits I sell are grade 5 or better.

ROLLGUY · #10 04-29-2013, 03:46 PM

I will have hose assemblies available soon, and will have compressors available sooner. The parts will be available as a complete kit (bracket, hose assemblies, compressor, drier) or each sold separately. The problem will be that I only have hose assemblies for non-turbo models with Sanden rear port fittings available right now. The turbo models have a different low side hard pipe (on top of the engine that bolts to the fuel filter stand and thermostat housing bracket), and I don't have any right now to modify. I will require a core charge on the pipe if your old one is not sent prior to buying the hose assemblies. The compressors I will have available will come with the "K" style rear port head. I will try to offer the best price I can in order to be competitive.

Stay tuned for more info on pricing and availability....Rich

ROLLGUY · #11 05-02-2013, 12:59 PM

123 with a Sanden and R134a: vent temps

ROLLGUY · #12 05-23-2013, 04:04 PM

I just got finished installing a parallel flow condenser and hose kit in my neighbors 300D. The 16X20 parallel flow condenser was purchased on ebay motors.

The rest of the hoses and compressor:

I am able to make all the hoses in house now, and can also make custom hoses. I try to use steel fitting whenever possible....Rich PM or email: wvobenzs@yahoo.com

Codifex Maximus · #13 05-27-2013, 12:27 AM

That installation sure looks pretty.

dieseldiehard · #14 06-03-2013, 06:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ROLLGUY

I just got finished installing a parallel flow condenser and hose kit in my neighbors 300D. The 16X20 parallel flow condenser was purchased on ebay motors.

I am able to make all the hoses in house now, and can also make custom hoses. I try to use steel fitting whenever possible....Rich PM or email: wvobenzs@yahoo.com

PM sent asking about hoses.
I have a Sanden.
I need to obtain the condenser so I sent an Email to ackits.com, they are very helpful and hopefully will find something suitable, I know they sold one to another Forum member so I would like to get the same size and I would rather use them than eBay.

Question: Are you using a pusher fan in front of the condenser?
I don't see the other half of the OE bracket that held it and the horns.
DDH