Gen. II-616/ 617 Sanden style A/C Compressor Mounting Kit For Sale + Install Inst. - Page 9 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

ROLLGUY · #**121** 07-04-2015, 01:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ROLLGUY

In welding the last batch of plates, I noticed that a shim was missing on my fixture for the compressor mount tabs. If you are attaching the compressor to the plate before mounting it as a unit on the engine, please verify that there is no space between the compressor alloy ear and the steel mounting tab. You might have gotten a plate that was made without the shim in place, thereby making a space that shouldn't be there. If left that way, tightening the bolts will break the compressor ear. Please check this before using the compressor. It is fairly easy to fix by using two adjustable wrenches on the tabs to bend them slightly apart. There is a tolerance in the Sanden manual (link in my installation guide page 9 "mounting ear deflection"), but is not that much. Sorry that this might have happened to yours, but I want to make sure before it is used and it break an ear off the compressor. I think there is no more than 3 out there that have been sold recently that may be affected. Please let me know. Thanks, Rich

I have not heard from anyone who made a recent order, other than the one I contacted personally. It seems that the one plate I checked and installed was the only one affected. My fixture has been repaired (no shim needed now), and all is good. I am ready for the barrage of orders

.....Rich

atypicalguy · #**122** 07-25-2015, 12:47 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mach4

Good point. I should have stipulated that I did some significant modifications to the oil line support bracket in order to support the modified oil cooler lines I used.

It's been so long since I did the oil cooler line mod, I forget how the original lines ran. And I should also state that I'm using an oil filter and lines off an SD (126) that may put the lines in a different relative position.

I think the point I was trying to make is, that if someone wants to try to add some top support, the solution I found is one that works. And if they've got the fab skills to weld up an adjuster rod, moving the cooler lines an inch or two and modifying the support bracket should be within reach.

Is there a thread detailing the flexible oil cooler line mod? I would like to run flex lines back to the filter housing. Thanks.

mach4 · #**123** 07-25-2015, 01:03 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by atypicalguy

Is there a thread detailing the flexible oil cooler line mod? I would like to run flex lines back to the filter housing. Thanks.

iI you start reading my build thread at about post #180 you will find how I modified my cooler, cooler lines and fabbed the lines themselves.

380SL Diesel Conversion Project

leathermang · #**124** 08-28-2015, 04:36 PM

Rollguy,
Have you considered putting a spring loaded idler wheel in the design to eliminate any problem with belts stretching ? It would also allow more degrees of contact wherever it is needed... to provide the friction needed without the need for excessive tension on the belt/s which I assume is the reason for the stretching problem....

ROLLGUY · #**125** 08-28-2015, 08:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by leathermang

Rollguy,
Have you considered putting a spring loaded idler wheel in the design to eliminate any problem with belts stretching ? It would also allow more degrees of contact wherever it is needed... to provide the friction needed without the need for excessive tension on the belt/s which I assume is the reason for the stretching problem....

The original design had an adjustable idler pulley, but turned out to be problematic. Also, I have never seen a spring loaded V-belt idler pulley, so I doubt that design would be cost effective. The current design seems to work great, with the exception of having to adjust the belt a couple times. I could provide a top quality belt, but that would increase the price. If the end user wants to put a more quality belt on, then they are free to do so....Rich

leathermang · #**126** 08-28-2015, 08:30 PM

People want a turn key dependable unit.... you are SO close.... you have not really checked on the cost of these items ?... I don't understand .... have you given up on the dream ?

ROLLGUY · #**127** 08-29-2015, 01:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by leathermang

People want a turn key dependable unit.... you are SO close.... you have not really checked on the cost of these items ?... I don't understand .... have you given up on the dream ?

There are MANY dependable units out there already, and I don't want to reinvent the wheel. I have enough parts to make 40 more kits, so I see no reason to redesign anything until all (or most) of the kits are sold....Rich

ROLLGUY · #**128** 10-09-2015, 02:45 PM

I thought I posted the price increase that was effective July first 2015, but it seems I did not. It was talked about in post 117. The currant prices are: $200 for the bracket kit, $200 for a 7 cyl Sanden, $180 for a 5 cyl, $100 for the hose kit, $20 for the drier, $25 for the relay kit, and $45 for the shipping/Handling/Insurance on a complete kit.

leathermang · #**129** 10-09-2015, 03:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ROLLGUY

.... It was eluded to ....

There is the problem... elude means to avoid or escape...
you meant to Allude to the price increase....

BillGrissom · #**130** 10-09-2015, 04:23 PM

Rich,
I complement you on being one of the most responsive and attentive manufacturers out there. Most who deal with the public rely on phone spoolers and such to frustrate customers who have questions.

My Gen 2.0 Sanden bracket is still working fine. I used a shorter H13 Sanden so had to add spacers anyway. All Sandens have the front bracket and pulley in the same place, so any adjustments are at the rear mount. The only bracket problems I had were from the later bracket2 that bolts to the upper oil pan. One mounting bolt was too long and knocked my crank indicator pin off (not used in my 1985 anyway). Bracket2 didn't reach the main bracket so I had to add washer spacers, but hard because the surfaces weren't exactly parallel. I kept finding the bolt & washers missing. I think I finally secured it by using a self-jamming nut plus a backup nut (my son has car).

My hoses caused some problems. I had to bend the factory hoses to fit my Sanden (w/ GM Pad head). I did this w/ hoses on car and had to use a big pipe wrench, working under the car on ramps. I later got a refrigerant leak right in the middle of the factory HP tube at the compressor. You couldn't even see the hole, but my pipe had nicked the tube too much. Fortunately, I had a spare set of AC fittings and hose material, so fixed it quick. Bending the tubes on the bench was much easier and I used round bars to not nick them. So I suggest anyone just rebuild your hoses and bend the tubes as needed then. I ran the HP hose straight over to the condenser, bending the factory fitting there to angle correctly. I like that much better than the run up the side of the engine that the factory used. My 1984's fitting was easier to angle down than my 1985 CA.

ROLLGUY · #**131** 10-09-2015, 05:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by leathermang

There is the problem... elude means to avoid or escape...
you meant to Allude to the price increase....

Thanks, I fixed it.

rotorbudd · #**132** 11-28-2015, 10:27 AM

Rollguy,
Could you PM me?
I'd like to order one of your kits, but I need some details first.
Thanks,
Rotorbudd

Adriel · #**133** 03-30-2016, 10:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ROLLGUY

I thought I posted the price increase that was effective July first 2015, but it seems I did not. It was talked about in post 117. The currant prices are: $200 for the bracket kit, $200 for a 7 cyl Sanden, $180 for a 5 cyl, $100 for the hose kit, $20 for the drier, $25 for the relay kit, and $45 for the shipping/Handling/Insurance on a complete kit.

Hey Rich, are you still requiring cash? I am still bothered from loosing the $300 in the mail is why asking; don't have family out there so not an option. However, the R4 clutch is not engaging without jumping 5 and 7, plus pressing and once engaged with engine running, made a HORRIFIC noise. I much rather buy from an individual, especially a Peach member.

Have a good day!

BillGrissom · #**134** 08-22-2016, 01:25 AM

I found my Sanden bracket cracked, after ~3 years. I had wondered where a rattling sound was coming from, just off idle, and finally found it got much quieter when I turned the AC compressor off. I had wondered why I had to turn the adjuster bolt all the way in, indeed had to move the lock nut to the other side and still got the belt barely tight.

As best I can tell, the crack runs all the way across, under the top tube. I can see the 2 parts of the bracket move as I push on the belt. Sorry for the poorly focused photo. I'll try to get the camera to focus correctly next time I have it up on ramps. Since summer is ending, I removed the belt for now to avoid any catastrophe. I'll remove the bracket when I have my spare vehicle running, and finish other priorities, maybe before next Spring.

One exacerbating condition is that originally I didn't have the extra support bracket to the upper oil pan that Rollguy later added. That was to stop shaking, which could cause such fatigue cracks. Even when I added it, there was a large un-parallel gap and I kept finding the washers & bolt I installed gone, and don't know how long since my son had the car out of town some years. I finally got some jam nuts that held. Thus, no telling how long the main bracket might have been shaking too much.

In my experience, bracket cracks are common. Indeed, it is hard to design one for infinite fatigue life. Since steel, I should be able to effect a weld repair, and beef up that area. Others should watch this are on their bracket and report, so Rollguy can make any needed design changes for the next customers.

disqo · #**135** 08-22-2016, 08:37 AM

I'm finally getting around to an install on a kit I bought two years ago. Did you all run the low side hose between the compressor and condenser under the engine? Where does the schrader valve end up?
Thanks!

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