Gen. II-616/ 617 Sanden style A/C Compressor Mounting Kit For Sale + Install Inst. - Page 9 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

ROLLGUY · #1 08-11-2019, 02:28 PM

Thanks Nate for the report.

For those of you that are going to install one of these Gen III kits, I have found that both braces need to be installed with the bolt head on top of the brace holding it to the aluminum upper pan, and the nuts on the bottom against the steel lower pan. This way, the brace bolts do NOT have to be removed in order to remove the steel lower pan. In the instructions for the Gen II kit, it has only the front brace, and the bolts were installed heads down, and nuts up. I don't know why I originally did it that way. I may print up an instruction addendum and put it with the kits I sell from now on. Actually, I think there is maybe two kits so far I have sold, that I did not install myself.

vwnate1 · #2 08-11-2019, 02:33 PM

All three of my W123's now have this ~

I know I need to clean out the evaporator in the wagon and put in new fan motor brushes but it's still very nice to have cool air in there after all this time .

Anything that makes these old cars more pleasant to drive is well worth the $ .

JHZR2 · #3 06-19-2020, 05:55 PM

Question regarding the Gen III, or any kit... Ive seen a lot of photos with a second AC hose up and over the top, along the valve cover.

Id really like to keep everything looking OE, that means OE hose routing.

Is it possible to get the ports/manifold changed to mate to the Sanden, and keep the entire OE hose routing for an original look?

Thanks!

ROLLGUY · #4 06-19-2020, 06:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JHZR2

Question regarding the Gen III, or any kit... Ive seen a lot of photos with a second AC hose up and over the top, along the valve cover.

Id really like to keep everything looking OE, that means OE hose routing.

Is it possible to get the ports/manifold changed to mate to the Sanden, and keep the entire OE hose routing for an original look?

Thanks!

I have not tried it, but I am sure the hose can be made with the fitting orientation and hose length to rout under the car.
I just never liked the factory hose routing location (more susceptible to damage), so I have always ran the hose above.

JHZR2 · #5 06-19-2020, 09:40 PM

Thank you.

As I have a leaky expansion valve, Ill have to open the system, so Im tempted to try to figure this out. Problem is I cannot make my own stuff, and I dont really know where to start. But Id be tempted to give it a try on my CD.

ROLLGUY · #6 10-16-2020, 07:11 PM

Although it has been available for a while, I have not updated this thread. Go to: Introducing: Gen III Sanden retrofit bracket

vwnate1 · #7 10-20-2020, 11:02 AM

This setup is still working O.K. on my 1982 240D slush box ~ I just finished two road rallies and was well pleased to have 50* F air in the 100* Outside desert temps.....

ROLLGUY · #8 10-20-2020, 11:37 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by vwnate1

This setup is still working O.K. on my 1982 240D slush box ~ I just finished two road rallies and was well pleased to have 50* F air in the 100* Outside desert temps.....

That's great Nate, glad to hear that!

vwnate1 · #9 10-20-2020, 02:06 PM

Me too as it's my oft daily driver .

No so much my '300TD

.

Isthisrandall · #10 12-16-2021, 12:59 PM

Is this still available?

ROLLGUY · #11 12-16-2021, 09:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Isthisrandall

Is this still available?

Yes Please reply via private message.

ROLLGUY · #12 02-04-2013, 02:00 AM

Here are the instructions for installing the bracket, compressor and tension adjustment parts. Sorry for the crummy photos. They were not taken with the parts on an engine, but you get the idea (I may replace them with the plate mounted on an engine if I get a chance).
The first thing to do is remove the old R4 compressor and aluminum mounting bracket.
You will need to retain one long compressor bolt, and the dual oil cooler hose strap, as they will be re-used.
Mount the plate on the engine using one long bolt (used) and one washer and lock nut (provided), and three 8mm bolts and lock washers.
Install all four fasteners before tightening them fully.

Next, install the tension adjusting brackets, adjusting screw, and spacer as shown. Place the washer against the aluminum:

Next, mount the compressor on the outboard side of the tabs with the nuts facing towards each other (again, with the washers against the aluminum):

Install the slotted adjusting bracket to the plate with the short bolt. The finished product should look like this:

Be sure to tighten the top two bolts just snug so the compressor can swing. After installing the belt, tighten the long adjusting screw so the belt has the proper tension, and then tighten the jamb nut. You can now tighten all the bolts.
Install the oil cooler line bracket in the power steering pump bracket using the two factory bolts. Re-use the dual hose strap and tighten the bolt (provided):

daw_two · #13 02-18-2013, 01:04 PM

Hey ROLLGUY ---

Can you tell me which Sanden compressor you have in this picture?

Thanks for the great post showing how to do the mounting!!!

Quote:

Originally Posted by ROLLGUY

Here are the instructions for installing the bracket, compressor and tension adjustment parts. Sorry for the crummy photos. They were not taken with the parts on an engine, but you get the idea (I may replace them with the plate mounted on an engine if I get a chance).
The first thing to do is remove the old R4 compressor and aluminum mounting bracket.
You will need to retain one long compressor bolt, and the dual oil cooler hose strap, as they will be re-used.
Mount the plate on the engine using one long bolt (used) and one washer and lock nut (provided), and three 8mm bolts and lock washers.
Install all four fasteners before tightening them fully.

Next, install the tension adjusting brackets, adjusting screw, and spacer as shown. Place the washer against the aluminum:

Next, mount the compressor on the outboard side of the tabs with the nuts facing towards each other (again, with the washers against the aluminum):

Install the slotted adjusting bracket to the plate with the short bolt. The finished product should look like this:

Be sure to tighten the top two bolts just snug so the compressor can swing. After installing the belt, tighten the long adjusting screw so the belt has the proper tension, and then tighten the jamb nut. You can now tighten all the bolts.
Install the oil cooler line bracket in the power steering pump bracket using the two factory bolts. Re-use the dual hose strap and tighten the bolt (provided):

ROLLGUY · #14 02-19-2013, 01:21 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by daw_two

Hey ROLLGUY ---

Can you tell me which Sanden compressor you have in this picture?

Thanks for the great post showing how to do the mounting!!!

It's a U 4426. It has a pad type hose mounting, but it was only $10 at the swap meet and is new, so I bought it. I can always change the head to something usable.

daw_two · #15 02-19-2013, 10:53 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ROLLGUY

It's a U 4426. It has a pad type hose mounting, but it was only $10 at the swap meet and is new, so I bought it. I can always change the head to something usable.

Thanks! What type of hose connection is preferred?

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