Can anyone tell me if the lifters in the 2.2 diesel engine need periodic adjusting? My engine sounds noiser than it use to, or is there any adjustment for the timing chain that I would need to check? Thanks

There is no adjustment to remove clatter from lifters. They can be replaced if they are worn.

An oil change may be an effective indicator of the issues you are concerned with. If the noises reduce afterwards, it was probably the lifters.

There is a quick check for chain wear in the manual. The tensioner should be fine unless over 200k miles. There is no adjustment for the chain except replacement of parts.

Use a stethoscope to pinpoint noise sources (vacuum pump) to give us more info. This list could go on forever.

__________________

OM606 knocking, rattling sound from engine

Sixto
87 300D

This engine does have slightly over 200K, burns no oil, starts great etc. I will change the oil and see if there is any change. How extensive is the task of replacing lifters or timing chain? I have completely rebuild gas engines before but have not been into one of these?

You replace the main timing chain but breaking the old one, temporarily attaching the new one, rolling in the new chain, then crimping closed the new chain. Half a day for a newbie, probably under and hour for seasoned hands.

Replacing the oil pump chain requires removing the front cover from between the head and oil pan - not too difficult - and hoping it goes back together without leaking - yeah, right.

There's a sequence to loosening the cam towers so you don't break the cam. Beyond that it's just turning wrenches. Early FSMs say to remove lifters with a magnet. Later FSMs say to use a suction device. I suppose magnetizing lifters leaves them susceptible to trapping ferrous debris in the oil. One or two hours tops.

Many claim running a good quality synthetic quiets tired lifters. It takes an oil change cycle or two to notice the effect.

Sixto
87 300D

Well I finally had to do this repair, got tired of listening to the clicking and clattering. The job wasn't to bad, just pay attension to line up the timing mark on the frnt. on the cam, line it up with the mark on the frnt. of #1 bearing cap ( #1 at TDC ) . I used zip ties to hold the timing chain in the correct position on the sprocket, I did mark both just in case. There is a critical dismantling proceedure for removing the cam as it is cold cast and will break if not removed properly. The #1, 3 , 5 caps should be removed alternating the loosening and removal. The #2 and 4 are the critical ones to unloose and re-torque one turn of each bolt alternating back and forth so as to remove or add valve spring pressure uniformly. Sounds tricky but not really, a little nerve racking until I had it back together and running, quietly now!