What to look for when buying a 300D

[diezuberturbo]

Hey guys I'm new(just signed up) and looking for a mid 80's 300D turbo in Southern Cal to convert to Bio D. I'm going from a Focus hatchback to one of these. My car has been good but after seven years it's time to move on.
I have driven 2 so far and the feel like tanks compared to what I drive now (but in a good way).
So here are my questions,
1. Is there a year to stay away from? (lemon)
2. What are the types (w123)? for instance i like the 300's with round headlights. what's that called
3. Can you tune these cars and make them more 0-60 fast?
(i don't need a race car, but there is a big difference between these cars and the little gas hatchback I'm driving now)
4. What are major problems to watch out for with diesels?
That's about it for now. Any help is majorly appreciated.

[boondoc holiday]

1. in my opinion the 82-85 turbos are pretty comparable and least prone to (lemon status). most of us like our 123s when they like us and don't break. most folks say the '85 is the best year model. others will elaborate why.

2. the w123 is probably the model with round headlights you are talking about.

3. you can "tune" them. you will find yourself "tuning" them often. in fact, with proper vacuum, transmission shift point, and slightly turning up the IP, you can get a respectable 0-60 time of about 13 seconds out of a 300dt. best they will do without rebuilding everything. but it will cost you so much money it's just not worth it. look for posts about that on the search function. "forced induction" has some great ideas on the subject. just learn to drive with more "road vision" and enjoy the cruising.

4. start with the obvious. make sure hoses and lines and belts are intact and pliable. inspect for oil leaks - thoroughly! if you do not know what to look for take a good mechanic that works on these. there are many posts on search about the common leaks.

secondly, inspect for water leaks or damage and rust and rot. check the front and rear window seals that they are pliable and doing their job. make sure you look under all the floor mats and carpet. look at the trunk under the plastic that goes over the wheel wells. then look under the hood hinges and springs as well as the battery tray area. LOOK FOR HOLES IN THE FIREWALL! use a flashlight!!!

do a compression test. make sure there are some semblance of service records that suggest proper maintenence.

a word of caution. this is going to be a hobby that will consume some time and probably frustrate you at times especially if you are not a full time mechanic. and that's just to maintain your diesel side. bio or veggie is a whole nother ordeal.

a word of encouragement. if you are not mechanical, you will learn to be and you couldn't learn on a better car. parts are fairly inexpensive and plentiful for the most part online. finally, you have a ridiculous team of experts to guide you here on the shop forum.

Originally Posted by diezuberturbo

Hey guys I'm new(just signed up) and looking for a mid 80's 300D turbo in Southern Cal to convert to Bio D. I'm going from a Focus hatchback to one of these. My car has been good but after seven years it's time to move on.
I have driven 2 so far and the feel like tanks compared to what I drive now (but in a good way).
So here are my questions,
1. Is there a year to stay away from? (lemon)
2. What are the types (w123)? for instance i like the 300's with round headlights. what's that called
3. Can you tune these cars and make them more 0-60 fast?
(i don't need a race car, but there is a big difference between these cars and the little gas hatchback I'm driving now)
4. What are major problems to watch out for with diesels?
That's about it for now. Any help is majorly appreciated.

[diezuberturbo]

Thanks for the info boondoc. I'll definitely keep those things in mind while looking. I looked at two yesterday. One '85 with 165k for $5500. It was clean outside except for rust under the paint. All interior very clean and most everything operational. Seemed a little slow on the take off but maybe it needs a valve tune. I don't know how serious rust under the paint is and there were at least 5-6 spots around a little larger than a silver dollar. But that sounds like a paint job at the very least to me.
The other was a '83(i think) with 195k for $3300 being sold by the owners mechanic. It needed body work all around, and some mechanical work. Nothing major bodywise just dull paint and some really good dings here and there. The engine seemed smooth and had better pick up than the '85. The mechanic said some things were going to be fixed before the sale. I can't remember what they were though (they didn't strike me as major) and he did say he would warranty it for a month. Have you got an insights on these?

[daw_two]

Members on here often sell their vehicles......I have 2 for sale; a 1985 300D and a 1986 300SDL. The 300SDL is my current daily driver.

[Eric Eliel]

You can start off and adjust your profile. Indicate the general area you live .....just in case you are asking a question about parts or looking for a particular vehicle. A fellow member might say "hey you are 1/2 hour from me and I have that part"......

[TylerH860]

Originally Posted by Eric Eliel

You can start off and adjust your profile. Indicate the general area you live .....just in case you are asking a question about parts or looking for a particular vehicle. A fellow member might say "hey you are 1/2 hour from me and I have that part"......

I wish that were the case with me. I feel like I'm the lone Kansan in this forum, surely there's more.

[diezuberturbo]

Thanks for the comments guys.
Eric: my profile has been minorly adjusted and my location is in noted.
daw two: Seeing that you are in Tennesee I think I should tell ya I'm not going to go out of state to get my car, I think there are quite a few cars right here in CA but thanks for telling me about your cars.

Anyone have anything to add about my last post, because most of those comments i think kind of missed what i was saying regarding the cars I looked at and regarding rust and other work to be done. Thanks again.

[Jim B.]

There should be a decent selection of nice 1982-1985 300D turbo sedans from which to choose, in your area, with the added bonus that area (Greater LA/OC) has weather agreeable to their preservation, plenty of good mechanics and shops that are competent, and the area is a car culture, which means that the cars are loved and well looked after by their owners.

An ideal candidate would have the 'California blue plates' indicating it was a lifelong California car, and have had the (free) trap oxider campaign already performed on it, rust and accident free, and a history of service and repairs backing up claims of its condition.

I co wrote the Mercedes benz buyers guide you can find here.

http://www.mbcoupes.com/buyersguide/buyersguide.htm


I mention it, because some of the tips and the checklist apply to ALL Mecedes cars, such as diesel sedans, though this was made for gas coupes, and it is not so new (1998)

Certainly the remark about So Cal cars proved true for me, a dozen years ago.
Aftre over a YEAR looking for the car I wanted, and being unsuccessful, a drive to Los Angeles for a weekend netted me the car I wanted, right off the Mercedes Benz dealer's (the one right by Disneyland in Buena Park) at a very nice price, and I still have the car.

Becaus of the interest in Biodiesel, the prices for these cars are relatively high and strong, but their build quality is unsurpassed, they look like the "classic" Mercedes Benz,

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim B.
Would have to say for me personally would be a clean white W123 sedan

Simple, stately, elegant, unpretentious, having all those hidden virtues of safety, durability, timeless classic good looks, class, all controls logically placed, easy to repair, spares always available, the model seen everywhere all over the world, ageless....


Thanks for the list of 123 virtues. My wife and I always look at our 123, smile and say things like: “There’s just something about it.”
You’ve covered that something well. Thanks.
__________________

W123:





They can run to stark trek mileages. Battered examples of them ply the roads of Africa, the Middle East and asia to this day.

In your area, it is said that "Lovecraft" Biodiesel is a very bad idea to patronize, and considered a scam by some.

Use the search engine here for more information.

Good luck in the search, being in the OC should net you a good car at a good price without a great deal of trouble

[Diesel911]

Ditto on any inspection for rust. Do not believe it is a car from CA. Get under the car with a good strong light an look around. Especially the wheel wells and from the fuel tank back ncluding the Rear control arms (mine has hoes that are rusted through), do a good check of the metal around the holes where the car jack goes.

[zeke]

Most of the w123's you will find have the round headlights. The square ones are Euro spec.

Matter of preferece - I actually like the US spec headlights better, but I am in the clear minority around here - most mercedesshop patrons seem to like the euro look better. (Also, euro spec had lower profile bumpers - I do understand why people prefer those bumpers, but I don't mind the US spec bumpers enough to change them).

Driving my 240d is different than a gasser, but I must say that we had a 'Yota Matrix before we got the 300TD, and I don't feel like I have any more problems getting around - a bit slower off the line than the Matrix, but much more powerful at any cruising speed.

Good luck!

[diezuberturbo]

Cool to get more responces, thanks D911 and Zeke. I looked at another car today at a used car lot, a '82 really clean body and interior. One of the guys on the lot started it and went to shuffle the cars around so i opened the hood and there seemed to be a lot of oil leaking aroud valve cover and head. When I removed the oil cap there was blowby wafting out like a miniture toy electric train. They guy got kind of irritated when I mentioned it. Sales people sure don't like it when you know what to look for. Then I drove it it was kind of sluggish and either the trans jolted the car or the turbo did. No working AC either. I don't know how it could only have 162k and have all these probs? And the sales guy said it was a one owner car, yeah one bad owner. Makes me wonder if they rolled back the miles. That was enough for me I left after that.

[boondoc holiday]

man, if i were in CA, I'd sell you mine for $5500. it's vegged and ready to go, almost 160K, and only a slight bit of rust on the front quarter.

[Jim B.]

Could be worthy a look if it is as good as claimed, and really has all records and checks out

Possibly from or now in Newport Beach area, near you, if the Fletcher Jones license plate frames are from new.

Those are 1984 year of issue alphanumeric plates on it, so it has been in So Cal most of its life.


http://www.autotrader.com/fyc/vdp.jsp?car_id=236052661&dealer_id=61736373&car_year=1985&model=300DT&num_records=25&systime=&make2=&sfy=true&start_year=1981&keywordsfyc=&keywordsrep=&engine=&certified=&body_code=8&fuel=&awsp=false&search_type=used&distance=200&marketZipError=false&search_lang=en&make=MB&keywords_display=&color=&page_location=findacar%3A%3Aispsearchform&min_price=&fsb=b&body_style=SEDAN&drive=&default_sort=priceDESC&max_mileage=&style_flag=2&sort_type=priceDESC&address=90028&advanced=&end_year=1985&doors=&transmission=&max_price=&cardist=35

Air Conditioning
AM/FM Radio
Cruise Control
CD Player
Rear Window Defroster
Power Door Locks
Power Mirrors
Power Windows
Power Steering
Sunroof/Moonroof

Seller's Description and Comments
Great car, low miles, all servicing and maintenance records since original purchase are available; have just fitted a new air conditioning compressor and actuators. No accidents, owner non-smoker. New roof liner and interior good. This car gets approximately 30 miles per gallon and is reliable and well-built. Priced for quick sale.




VIN WDBAB33C0FA249535
Model 300 D TURBO
Chassis 1231331A249535
Engine 617952 12 101830
Transmission 722416 02 195105
Order 0 4 705 82801
Approx. year not defined
Lights BOSCH
Cab 03325
Dealer United States (USA) (705)
Interior mb-tex java (154)
Paint
623 light ivory (T) (с 01.01.1972 по 1993)
54 Unknown code
Options

[JimmyL]

That car has the smallest options list from MB Club Russia that I've ever seen.
It is a clean looking car with the very rare rear head rests......

Originally Posted by Jim B.

Could be worthy a look if it is as good as claimed, and really has all records and checks out

Possibly from or now in Newport Beach area, near you, if the Fletcher Jones license plate frames are from new.

Those are 1984 year of issue alphanumeric plates on it, so it has been in So Cal most of its life.


http://www.autotrader.com/fyc/vdp.jsp?car_id=236052661&dealer_id=61736373&car_year=1985&model=300DT&num_records=25&systime=&make2=&sfy=true&start_year=1981&keywordsfyc=&keywordsrep=&engine=&certified=&body_code=8&fuel=&awsp=false&search_type=used&distance=200&marketZipError=false&search_lang=en&make=MB&keywords_display=&color=&page_location=findacar%3A%3Aispsearchform&min_price=&fsb=b&body_style=SEDAN&drive=&default_sort=priceDESC&max_mileage=&style_flag=2&sort_type=priceDESC&address=90028&advanced=&end_year=1985&doors=&transmission=&max_price=&cardist=35

Air Conditioning
AM/FM Radio
Cruise Control
CD Player
Rear Window Defroster
Power Door Locks
Power Mirrors
Power Windows
Power Steering
Sunroof/Moonroof

Seller's Description and Comments
Great car, low miles, all servicing and maintenance records since original purchase are available; have just fitted a new air conditioning compressor and actuators. No accidents, owner non-smoker. New roof liner and interior good. This car gets approximately 30 miles per gallon and is reliable and well-built. Priced for quick sale.




VIN WDBAB33C0FA249535
Model 300 D TURBO
Chassis 1231331A249535
Engine 617952 12 101830
Transmission 722416 02 195105
Order 0 4 705 82801
Approx. year not defined
Lights BOSCH
Cab 03325
Dealer United States (USA) (705)
Interior mb-tex java (154)
Paint
623 light ivory (T) (с 01.01.1972 по 1993)
54 Unknown code
Options

[diezuberturbo]

I drove that car. It looks good in the pics and the motor looked clean but that's the same car that has rust bubbles under the paint in various spots and I also commented that it may need a valve tune. The owner is from the UK and had owned it for two years. He worked for Fletcher Jones, so I'm guessing that's where he got the plate frames. I asked him if he took the car to FJ to repair since he worked there, and he told me he would never take it to FJ to repair because they were very over priced. I think about buying that car. He lives really close to the beach so maybe salt air had something to do with the rust, or if it's been in the beach area for awhile. But how do you fix rust like that? My common sence tells me it's fixable. Don't you have to cut out and weld in new metal? Or does it depend on the amount of rust? I know I'm not going to find a perfect car, I'm going to have to compromise one way or another and spend some cash to make the car the way I want. I think the smartest compromise is going to be the body because a strong engine makes more sence. Any thoughts?