delivery valve help!
 

I just removed delivery valve #1 on my 603 and the copper washer is sitting on top of the piston. According to the instruction sheet I got with my parts the copper washer is supposed to be on the bottom of the bore, underneath the piston???:confused:

Wait for some one else to confirm where the washer is in the Pics. The red arrow points to them in the Pic.
In the MW the Crush Washer goes between the Element and the Delivery Valve Body. The M Pump is different and it sits on top of the Delivery Valve Body or on the only one I took apart gets stuck up inside of the Delivery Valve Holder; #7 in the pic of the M Pump parts.

Pressure Valve = Delivery Valve

Also for more info:
DIY Repair Links
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/forumdisplay.php?f=82
http://www.peachparts.com/Wikka/DoItYourSelf

Looks like mine is correct then. Just pulled the intake to make things easier, doing GPs anyway.

FYI
 

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/general-information/173991-om60_series-ip-delivery-valve-reseal.html



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Thanks but now I see in that link about the proper tigtening method, 30nm,loosen, 30nm, loosen, 35nm. I didn't do this I just went right to 35nm. I did have the intake and fuel lines off so it was easy to get everything centered. Should I leave it alone since I am already at 35nm?

I don't see how anyone can do this with the intake in the way, how could you possibly get the pistons lined up?

Answer
 

Do it right.
* Remove the intake.
* New copper seals again.
* Follow the torque procedure.

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The intake is still off. Do you think I need to change the orings again too?

Hunter, what is the worst thing that can happen if dieselmania leaves His IP they way it is now?

Answer
 

Internal leaking.
The copper O-rings harden to the final torque.
They need the two pre-loads for settling - seating, and the final torque for sealing.


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Since the intake is still off it will be very easy to do it over, don't want to take a chance. I am hoping this job may clear up a very minute miss at idle that injectors didn't.

OK parts arrived today, replaced the copper washers and did the proper torque sequence.
One thing bothered me, the O rings did not stay in their grooves when unthreading the valves, they rode all the way down the threads as I unscrewed them. They seem to be undamaged so I rolled them back into the grooves and re-used them since I didn't have new ones.
Question, is it easier to install the intake with the fuel lines assembled onto it or put them on after?

http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...nkie/008-1.jpg

Hmm
 

FSM calls for replacing both seals on each delivery valve.

The reason the old O-rings rolled off like that was because of riding against the sharp thread edges.

My best guess is you will be re-doing this job within three months, because of leaks - performance issues.


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They were not old orings, they were the new ones I installed a few days ago. I replaced the copper washers on your recommendation for proper torque sequence. Are you saying I should have replaced the orings again?

Answer
 

I replace both, every time a delivery valve comes out.
The threads are sharp, even slight O-ring damage will leak.
It is a pain, but it is the only way I know to be sure.

The decision is yours, and you may be OK.


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I already ordered another set of each, I do not feel comfortable about the orings after they were subjected to the threads like that. This is turning into a fiasco, three times now I will have done this job.

I am very curious as to why my 1987 Factory Service Manual set published by Mercedes Benz of North America simply states 35nm torque for this job (07-1-210, delivery valve seal replacement), and makes no mention of the triple sequence.