Check out this nifty toggle valve. It has the exact port configuration you need. Hook the "common" port to the SOV, the exhaust to the air and the other port to the vacuum source.

Clippard Brass Toggle Valve w Hose Barb Fittings Panel Mount | eBay

Don't forget that the valve needs an exhaust port so the SOV can relax when the valve is in the "run" position.

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y71...psam5plk6q.jpg

This one appears to have the features you all agree on. I like the way the part that would be exposed in the cab of the truck looks.

Thank you very much Gentlemen!

Thanks for the help Ryan!

(I figured the sight of the turbo u tube peeking out would cause serious wood here on the diesel forum!)

The diagram above looks just like the vacuum switch for door locks in the driver's side door on a W123

The lines on that truck are just....... right. Period.

Rgds,
Chris W.
'95 E300D, 454K

Thanks Chris! I could not agree more.;)

It looks chopped and channeled doesn't it?

I just ordered the valve suggested by Kartec. thank you my friend!

Today my new nose trim came in. It is an old one that is replated and is very very shiny. they tended to get broken by people hitting the bumper and pushing it back into the nose trim which runs up and down behind it.

Woo hoo!

I have that exact valve and has some leakage issues, it was not completely airtight. Just an fyi, could have been my specific valve, but just in case theres a problem on the install. I recommend testing with a vac pump before installing

I have found that some pressure valves don't work perfectly with vacuum and you end up having to swap possibly the exhaust port for the vacuum source port, etc...

As you say, definitely pull a vacuum on all the ports to get a feel for the effectiveness of the valve.

Thanks for the heads up!

Tom, that solenoid valve I sent you should provide the same function. It's a ported 3-port so it'll bleed off vacuum when activated. I think I sent the Peter Paul instruction sheet but if not you can go to their site and enter the PN and the directions ought to come up. Anyhow, the Peter Paul is industrial grade, top-notch stuff. I don't reacll which port is which but the instruction should walk you thru it or you can just trace the ports by sucking on it. And it should NOT leak!

Dan

Thanks Dan!

Glad to hear you located a good front trim piece. Some parts in restoration can be hard to find. When you started the project I wondered how you would do getting that piece.

In my case it was a good hood ornament for the 39 Buick resto rod. Nobody was producing reproductions and the length and thinness of them would make it difficult if anyone would even try.

Buick also seemed to cheap out on the grade of pot metal for that year. So most I saw in the two years it took where in pretty bad shape even for restoration. I did eventually get one from the west coast though.

I guess though that if Studebaker parts are sought. Geographically you are in about the best area.
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Also the rear bumper that originally was not really that bad. The re plating did not last and I will have to have it redone. There are really good replating shops out there but not that many. That bumper will have to go more than a thousand miles to get to a good one.

Just keep trucking along as it is getting there.