Some sites post for people who are traveling and can carry parts like that--all the way, or part of the way. I know some Cub Cadet websites where that is common.
Perhaps one of the Studebaker sites has that as well. You could try posting here.

Good idea.

Thanks!;)

this one has a nice look but really does not look as if it could be a running driving car. Judging by where the frame is in back and how much its channelled and chopped I don't know how a regular person could get into it much less drive it.:eek:

I drove from CO right past your house a couple of months ago. May be repeating that journey within the year. U-ship is a good option though.

I have a little 38 chevy in the backyard, Im slipping the jag unit under the front-its pretty close correct width for a late thirties ride. I dont know if dicing this is a go deal to clear the front sump-- but as is they support the weight of a v12--that car tips the scales over 4100 I believe. A serious welder -(or someone with a structural/ technical background) can evaluate how it would work out with a 617. This is the most economical route for a great ride. Chevy 4-3/4 bolt pattern and the artilleries like the dark ones in a prevoius picture here are on the shelf ready to order to fit these. you can pull and get one of these home for $150 and a fully rebuilt setup is a 300 doller bill. (The rod shops HATE these for this reason).
This one had some rudely done jag-rolet motor mounts on it.

which way is forward on the cross member and where are the centerlines of the wheels in relationship to the crossmember? I don't see any uprights here. What size are the brakes, please?

Looks promising.

I like the price too!

Its rear steer. The pieces in the second pic are all the bs trimmed off. 11" rotors. The sump might cover the front half of the CM --so it would have like square section cut out--and a steel box section welded in--possibly, no real way to tell until someone attempts it. the uprights are there plain as day--- the a arms angle back like a mid seventies medium gm front suspension. if I recall correctly --about 8" jutts foreward past the wheel centerline-( theres prolly no moving the engine back as far as you care because it would put the sump dead center occupying the rack location.


The pics of the carmogeddon fixture i posted allow me to fab c5 corvette custom crossmembers in many different widths- I was lucky enough to locate a burned car in San Antonio and explaind my scheme to the yard owner -Vince Grissom, and he let me mount up the fixture to the frame to get the top a arm mounting points pegged. I have also though of another based on the later jag front suspensions--it would end up looking a lot like the heidt's rear steer superride -but use the cast aluminum jag arms and rack/brakes.

I also thought about the crossmember from a 115/107 but am not sure how that all is in relationship to the wheel centerlines. The front pully on the 617 appears to be right on the centerline of the front wheels. Clearing the front pan is iffy but probably very good if a front steer with rack and pinion is used. 11" brakes are desired as a minimum with the 26 to 30" diameter tires I want to use.

I believe I can put a 123 cross member under the motor mounts and get places for the stock motor mounts and the motor shocks to bolt to.

I have looked at that too but you would really have to trim the shiiit out of it and it wouldn't lend itsself very well at all even though the 76 300d used that front suspension unit.

the 123 does not seem feasable at all because of the upper weird a arm-tieing into the swaybar -mainly the fenderwell unibody structure. and lack of ability to use coilover schocks, it would be a major project and what you would end up with is a whole w123 frontend being transplanted to the firewall of this truck and somehow managing to make the original outer front sheetmetal fit over:eek:

you would work yourself right into a dead end and have to back out and start over--dont try this.

the 123 crossmember would be only for carrying the engine. The front suspension will be nearly 16" further forward.

Those rails really pinch in tight on that frame- I dont think theres room for a stock arm mounting arrangement (or an ac compressor on the DS), in fact custom steel arms -arching up like gull wings might be required--which would have an added benifit.
whenever you can use engine mounts well above the crankshaft centerline--you are taking away a motors tendancy to jump around, taming it.

edit:
I went back and looked at the pic--its not as narrow as I thought.

Its a lot bigger than a 39 ford. It is as wide and nearly as long as a modern pickup...not as big as my big dodge but as big as a 90's chevy full size.

whats the stock wheel mounting surface to WMS width?

Inside the backing plates on the rear end is 56.5". I assume the front is about the same.