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-   -   1939 Studebaker coupe express (http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/327903-1939-studebaker-coupe-express.html)

sixto 04-10-2013 10:43 AM

Some think you've come around to your senses :)

Sixto
87 300D

TheDon 04-10-2013 12:03 PM

I can't wait until I can buy project cars

P.C. 04-10-2013 12:06 PM

I hear that the engine for a '39 Studebaker is practically a bolt-in...

t walgamuth 04-10-2013 01:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by P.C. (Post 3128640)
I hear that the engine for a '39 Studebaker is practically a bolt-in...

What engine?

daw_two 04-10-2013 04:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by t walgamuth (Post 3128547)
You guys are going to think I have lost my mind (prolly true) but I am back to putting the 617 turbo motor in the studie.

Quote:

Originally Posted by t walgamuth (Post 3128714)
What engine?


So, Tom. Does this mean you sold the engine for a nice profit? I've got a good running OM617, turbo that I just listed in the Parts forum. I've got a trip planned to Louisville in May, so delivery is possible. Here's my ad:
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/mercedes-used-parts-sale-wanted/337322-fs-memphis-tn-om617-turbo-running-engine%3B-delivery-possible.html

plus

This would give you another opportunity to see the Cummins 4BT in my Dakota. :D

daw_two 04-10-2013 04:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TheDon (Post 3128637)
I can't wait until I can buy project cars

I hope you are still single when this occurs. I challenge you to just have ONE project car at a time.

t walgamuth 04-11-2013 07:32 PM

Today I was pondering using the sls system on the truck. Are those "shocks" struts I guess they call them something I could just mount on the back of the Studebaker truck and keep the leaf springs?

kerry 04-11-2013 08:23 PM

Maybe. Those 'struts' are designed to carry part of the load so I would think the springs might need to be tuned to the struts.

t walgamuth 05-01-2013 09:09 AM

This week I am back on putting the Studebaker v8 in the truck.

Yesterday I pulled apart the 64 full flow engine and found it to be so clean it looked brand new. The only real hing of use was the dark colored oil and a modest ring ridge. Not a speck of sludge anywhere, the outside was clean and without grease or dirt too. I measured the wear and it is right around 4 thou so Homer says I can hone it and install new rings. The bearings and crank show no wear and I will re-use them.

My 16" smoothy rims came in and I found to my dismay they weigh over 30
# each. Now I am looking at lighter alternatives and thinking of returning them.

Air&Road 05-01-2013 10:18 AM

Well, I hate to throw controversy into something so non political as a re-ring job, but:

In the seventies, Ryder Truck Rental owned the largest fleet of vehicles in the world, second only to the US govt. They did LOTS of maintenance research within their Ryder Labs organization.

Through extensive testing, they determined that cast iron rings would seat in short order in a glazed cylinder within dimensional limits. I have done this with great success numerous times. It is against conventional wisdom and about eight out of ten old time 'chanics will tell you that you must hone cylinders no matter what. This is just not true.

Honing the cylinder is just grinding part of your cylinder life away, and more of it is ground away with the ring seating process.

Continental and others make cast iron rings for most any engine ever built and they're not very expen$ive.

Using any other ring material will indeed require cylinder honing for proper seating. Always take into account any change in dimensions that might take place in the honing process, when deciding whether or not the cylinder is within servicable limits.

FWIW. It's your engine. Best of luck with whatever you decide to do with it.

P.C. 05-01-2013 11:24 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by t walgamuth (Post 3139458)
This week I am back on putting the Studebaker v8 in the truck.

Yesterday I pulled apart the 64 full flow engine and found it to be so clean it looked brand new. The only real hing of use was the dark colored oil and a modest ring ridge. Not a speck of sludge anywhere, the outside was clean and without grease or dirt too. I measured the wear and it is right around 4 thou so Homer says I can hone it and install new rings. The bearings and crank show no wear and I will re-use them.

My 16" smoothy rims came in and I found to my dismay they weigh over 30
# each. Now I am looking at lighter alternatives and thinking of returning them.

I realize that the less unsprung weight the better when it comes to ride and handling, but is this a vehicle that you plan to drive aggressively? As long as the rims are safe, I would give aesthetics more weight than weight in this application. What is the weight of the factory rim?

t walgamuth 05-01-2013 01:17 PM

19#. I don't plan to drive aggressively but don't want the back end to beat me to death either. The ford 9" will already make it ride rougher than stock so I don't want to make it any worse than I have to.

t walgamuth 05-01-2013 01:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Air&Road (Post 3139496)
Well, I hate to throw controversy into something so non political as a re-ring job, but:

In the seventies, Ryder Truck Rental owned the largest fleet of vehicles in the world, second only to the US govt. They did LOTS of maintenance research within their Ryder Labs organization.

Through extensive testing, they determined that cast iron rings would seat in short order in a glazed cylinder within dimensional limits. I have done this with great success numerous times. It is against conventional wisdom and about eight out of ten old time 'chanics will tell you that you must hone cylinders no matter what. This is just not true.

Honing the cylinder is just grinding part of your cylinder life away, and more of it is ground away with the ring seating process.

Continental and others make cast iron rings for most any engine ever built and they're not very expen$ive.

Using any other ring material will indeed require cylinder honing for proper seating. Always take into account any change in dimensions that might take place in the honing process, when deciding whether or not the cylinder is within servicable limits.

FWIW. It's your engine. Best of luck with whatever you decide to do with it.

I'll discuss this with my Machinist. Thanks for the thoughts....not controversial at all really, just another view.

What kind of oil do you recommend? (heh heh, just kidding).;)

Air&Road 05-01-2013 01:28 PM

Oil! You definitely will want to use Amalie in order to keep the engine squeaky clean.:)

Seriously though, with a flat tappet engine such as that, make sure you end up with enough zinc. There are many oils that provide it or additives to provide it, but make sure you have it.

sloride 05-01-2013 01:35 PM

Tom I was wondering if you have heard of the "Studevette" in the South Bend IN area. This is a 2011 vette frame and drive train with a Studie truck body on it. This is not on the road yet but getting there. Also have you been to the Studabaker museum in South Bend.


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