Mercedes Benz Diesel Racing League

[CarolinaMBZ]

Are you tired of constantly buying very expensive soft racing tires for your racer every weekend just to have them wear out each race? Tired of maintaining a race trailer to take your car to each race? Tired of the huge expenses of keeping your suspension and engine in top racing condition? Tired of buying expensive Halon fire extinguishers for the enivitable gasoline fire? Has your racing suit grown too tight after the Holidays? Tired of the quest to drill holes in every component of your car or the expense of constantly replacing everything in your car with absurdly expensive ultra-light materials just to save weight to remain competitive? Do you simply wish you had the time and money to be in a position where you actually had these problems with racing in competitive SCCA class racing?

What if there was a way to enjoy the essence of amateur racing without the expense, danger, complexity and snobbiness of the more formal organizations and events?

There is, with interested co-enthusiasts' help. Maybe 4-6 annual informal regional events similar to the basic SCCA events (timed parking lot cone course racing with perhaps some autocross track events).

Proposed rules:
1) Limited to US Spec. 4 speed W123 240Ds (inexpensive, durable and safe car with great uniformity across cars, i.e. "stock")
2) No modifications from factory spec original equipment except factory bundt-style alloy wheels may be installed instead of original steel wheels and tires used must have a treadwear rating of over 400 and not be sized over 205/70R14 (Non factory radios also OK)
3) Factory Battery or equivalent size and weight installed with factory clampdowns.
4) Spare tire in at least same size as original equipment with original jack and tool kit (or equivalent weight of same) must be present. Floor mats can be removed if driver thinks it matters (Remember we're not racing carbon fiber encrusted Porsche 911s but simply having fun)
5) Engine must be original bore and stroke.
6) Original equipment pollution control devices must be installed but correct operation not required.
7) (A pain but important for fairness) Factory shocks and springs or OEM equivalent required.
8) For safety, a SCCA approved crash helmet to be worn (Sharing allowed).
9) A reasonable safety check for fluid leaks (significant ones while engine running only otherwise we would all be DQ'd) along with perhaps brake and steering link conditions.

Just some thoughts I have been pondering lately as I talk with friends who do the traditional "high-dollar" M3 and Porsche weekend racing thing. Why not have all the fun without any of the headaches and expense. Just the essense of pushing a car and changing gears through turns while not having to worry about fires or crashworthiness.

If there are any other "nuts" on board who would be interested in putting this together with me let me know. I won't be able to check back till next week but would be interested in any constructive and/or positive thoughts on this.

Why limit it to 240D's? How about a class system (240, 300-617, 300-603, 601/2, 606, modified, and unlimited)?

We tweakers and power freaks want some action too. I bet if somebody has a 300D-Cummins 6BT, they wouldn't mind a race league...

Side note: Any of you in the NE Oklahoma area, feel free to contact me. I'm always interested in starting a little gtg.

[190D22]

Why also the limits down to batteries? Maybe I've got a lighter battery with the same CA & CCA if not better. These little advantages make it all fun!

Sweet! Lets go for it.
Hudson

[JerryBro]

I love it! We could call it GT-MB!

[fahrgewehr2]

Brilliant. You make this happen and I'll buy a 240.

[WANT '71 280SEL]

What about the few w116s? Not all of them have dissapeared to the element of rust or careless drivers. I bet NYDISEL would show up if it were close to him. Acastell has one, if it were near him I couldn't go though Oh well, yoiu guys have fun and let me know if you include SD's. How about w116's vs. w126's? I bet I know who'd win.
Thanks
David

[fahrgewehr2]

I tell you what, that 116 diesel will TEAR up a 126 diesel.

Yes they are all rusting away. Do you drive yours in the salt? If you do, its got about a year or two before the body is swiss cheese. Ask me how I know this.

[WANT '71 280SEL]

I turn 18 Monday and go to high school in NE Indiana, of course I HAVE to drive it in the salt. I go through a car wash when it goes over about 20 degrees or so. I know, mine already has rust in some places under the trunk, but the fllor pans and initial frame are all rust free. The car has been in NE IN for about 15 years now. I had the rust fixed that was above the two wheel wells with bondo. It looks nice except 3 months later I already have a crack! I am going to take it back to the guy since I have talked to him several times before.
Thanks
David

[WANT '71 280SEL]

What makes a 116 faster than the 126? I only have 110hp and they have like 115-120! 116 also weighs more I believe. No w116 has any emissions though which is a plus.
Thanks
David

[JerryBro]

Originally posted by fahrgewehr2
I tell you what, that 116 diesel will TEAR up a 126 diesel...

Well of course, they are all so much lighter now compared to the day they left the factory.

[fahrgewehr2]

I can't tell you why they are faster.

I driven multiple 116/126 diesels (5cyl) back to back and the 116s were just faster. Everyone I've ever talked to agrees. What was the gearing for the different model years? 116s had no EGR valve right? Tire size? tranny ratios? I don't know?

Sucks about the rust. Take the bus, man.

[WANT '71 280SEL]

Do you literally think my car will completely rust out within 2 years? You can't be serious? As in rust out, I mean front fenders that are still metal and not bondo, they will rust out? That will suck. the car already has some rust in the trunk and some bubbles around the front fender wells, so even just driving it in the summer only, it is already past the stage of salvageable. Although, my car has to be one of the best looking w116's in Ft. Wayne. I have seen probably 10 different ones, and none of them looked to be as good as mine mechanically, cosmetically, or structurally. I would still like to get my paws on a gas fintail. (Also horrible rusters)
Thanks
David

Just imagine the rust in places you can't see. Between body panels, under trim, under paint, inside body drains, etc.

[whunter]

Hello WANT '71 280SEL
The trick is to clean and wash at every opportunity.
Sounds like you do this already.
Ok, enough; are you trying to depress him?
Sounds to me like WANT '71 280SEL is doing a slow restoration; without realizing it.
I hope you are trained in welding.
Are you ASE certified WANT '71 280SEL ?
After all the work you have done; you should be.
http://www.asecert.org/
Remember:
As long as it rolls on its own; the rust does not matter.
Have a great day.


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