Ball joint replacement using HF kit and home made adapter
 

I needed to replace the ball joints on my 240 (as well as other suspension parts), and did not want to spend the big bucks required to purchase the special tool. I got a ball joint kit from Harbor Freight:
http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k1...n/100_1466.jpg
After removing the old joint and cleaning and painting the parts,
I had to make a special adapter for the press to work, as nothing provided in the kit would work.
I took a piece of 2" black pipe and cut off a slice 7/8" long. I cut out about 1/4" from the circumference, making the diameter smaller. I then welded a large washer on the top, and ground it all smooth (just for looks).

http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k1...n/100_1461.jpg

The pieces needed to do the job:
http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k1...n/100_1460.jpg

I had to tighten the press as much as I could, and then hammer the clamp to force the ball joint in. The threads are too course to press this joint in by just turning the screw:
http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k1...n/100_1467.jpg

A little tightening, a little hammering, and repeating the process a couple times, and the joint is all the way in:
http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k1...n/100_1462.jpg

The finished product:
http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k1...n/100_1465.jpg

So no nicks or tears to the boot from the install? Very nice.

How did you get the old ball joint out? Were you able to hammer it out or do you have access to a press?

a user called samiam said he made a similar thing for a W124 - and it worked very nicely.

OK,
you cut a SLIT in the 2" pipe, then hammered it back round, and welded the slit closed, and welded the washer onto one end of the piece...
right?
I'd also like to know what you did to remove the old joint.

The W123 service manual calls for knocking old ball joints out with a hammer. No special tools or techniques required.

Works like a charm for some, others on this board say they've hammered till they couldn't feel their shoulder anymore and they couldn't get the thing to budge.

ahh. that is good enough for me. I've got SEVERAL that are very rust covered, I think with some cleaning, and Kroil added, I may get them out with hammering, but I also think I can rig a mount for the press to push them out.

To get that ball joint out a serious hammer (literally like Thor's Hammer) is required.

and another hammer made of brass with a 2 ft handle to act as a drift held by another person while the first person swings the 10 lb sledge like an axe. It would take one swing to knock it out, two for rusty ones.

You can use a 4 lb sledge with more time (shoulder wear out)

you now have me imagining Mjolnir slamming into the spindle with lightning flying...
John Henry's hammer makes more sense to me as an example...

I just did them on a W201 which I think is the same design as the W124. I got them out with a sledge hammer along with the aid of heat. Removed the wheel, disconnected the hub/brakes and tied them out of the way. Car was in the shop on a concrete floor. Set the arm down on a large block of wood (arm still attached to car) such that 80% of the bottom of the BJ was hanging over the edge. Hit it several times with a 3' - 4' swing of the sledge and no budge. Heated things up (not cherry hot as it appears the end of the arm is tempered) and it still took several more whacks before they popped out. One side drove the ball of the BJ through the ball joint before I knocked the rest of the BJ housing out. Those guys were in there really tight!

Be care full that the wood under the arm won't move as if it jarred out of the way the spring could become free and hurt something.

Made 2 little jigs from scrap pipe fittings for install. One fit the perimeter of the BJ on the bottom and the other was slightly larger than the hole for the top with enough length for the threaded part of the BJ to fit inside. 4 or 5 firm whacks with a 2 lb hammer set them in place...not too bad putting them back.

As you do alot of MB work, I could see where the specialty tool could be cost efffective for you.

attached
 

attached pictures for future need.

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Yes that is correct, except I used adjustable pliers to squeeze it closed. I used a press to remove the old joints, but I may try the hammer method next time (may not have access to the press).

The ID of the tool I made fits snug around the ring that holds on the boot. It is just high enough to barely allow the end of the press to fit in the recess of the spindle without crushing the boot.

Rich that is thinking outside the box, good idea with the pipe. I have one of those Chicom BJ Presses.

Funola posted a thread Redneck lower Ball Joint removal. He dug a hole and buried the upper end of the knuckle in the ground to drive out the BJ with a Hammer. This does work, I did mine for the 85, and took about 7 - 10 whacks to drive it out.

I placed a piece of 1/4" 4x4 steel in the bottom of the hole so I wasn`t driving the thing deeper into the ground. I used the flat end of the Socket (27MM) against the BJ and a smaller one (11/16) inverted inside. both impact sockets.

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/321615-red-neck-lower-ball-joint-removal.html

http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c3...717_165251.jpg

http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c3...717_165552.jpg

http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c3...717_165720.jpg




Thanks to Funola for the pictures.



Charlie

Hi Rich, making the adapter is a lot of work. Do you think a similar size 1/2" drive socket would work also?