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  #1  
Old 03-13-2013, 06:06 PM
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617.95 Valve clearances

Hi guys

I have a couple of broken, in disassembly 617.95 engines and a car. I think an '85 that made smoky and a '82

What happened to the 1982 engine was that it snapped the cam towers and camshaft (!) Replacing them resulted in snap again.

I wonder what is going. Perhaps the valves being not quite tight, but somehow kept open and the cam needing to force against the slammed spring.

Presently I have cam tensioner guide broken and needing removal, but the dowel pin seems to be keeping it in. How to remove?

Are there any other suggestions for what may have caused failure?

Thanks,

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Old 03-13-2013, 06:23 PM
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The most likely scenario is the loss of the relationship between the camshaft and the crankshaft after head removal. This engine is tolerant of only about 18 degrees of error. After that, the pistons contact the valves.

You can be sure that it is safe to attempt a start by rotating the engine via the center bolt on the crankshaft BY HAND through 720 degrees.
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Old 03-13-2013, 07:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian Carlton View Post
The most likely scenario is the loss of the relationship between the camshaft and the crankshaft after head removal. This engine is tolerant of only about 18 degrees of error. After that, the pistons contact the valves.

You can be sure that it is safe to attempt a start by rotating the engine via the center bolt on the crankshaft BY HAND through 720 degrees.
Could it be that bad? The valves and pistons looked okay when taken out, and also, the engine had run immediately before and during the broken cam thing. (it stalled when the cam broke in half and stopped turning, but when the towers broke it still was going...)
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Old 03-13-2013, 08:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Volker View Post
Could it be that bad? The valves and pistons looked okay when taken out, and also, the engine had run immediately before and during the broken cam thing. (it stalled when the cam broke in half and stopped turning, but when the towers broke it still was going...)
What Brian said is the only explanation I can think of.

Perhaps there was just enough Valve to Piston contact that it took a little runing of the Engine to cause it to break.

As said turning the Engine by Hand is the way to go. Do that without the Glow Plugs in so it will be easy to turn.

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