92 W124 rear wheel bearring how to ? - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

Chris_ · #1 04-05-2013, 11:06 AM

Rear wheel bearring R&R procedure ?
What special tools are actually required ?
I have printed out pdf files

35-620 ( which defines the removal of the axle shaft from the vehicle with hub in situ )

35-130 (which details the removal of the bearring from the hub ( carrier ) with the hub in situ) - and lists about 5 special tools to do the job .

35-115 ( which details the entire wheel carrier removal but also mentions the possibility of affecting the rear wheel alignment)

Not sure how to proceed ...

I attempted to initially remove the axle but the spline was very tight and the puller I have was not the right one for the job.
Any tricks / tips / procedure with-without special tools very much appreciated.

thank you

vstech · #2 04-05-2013, 11:45 AM

I've never had any issues pulling axles on my 124's... the nut comes off, and the inner hub unbolts.
easy.
you are supposed to replace the axle nut when you pull it, new at the dealer is like 2.00
peach parts sells them too.
you will need a xzn "tripple square" socket in 8mm I think for the inner hub unbolting.

Chris_ · #3 04-05-2013, 03:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by vstech

I've never had any issues pulling axles on my 124's... the nut comes off, and the inner hub unbolts.
easy.
you are supposed to replace the axle nut when you pull it, new at the dealer is like 2.00
peach parts sells them too.
you will need a xzn "tripple square" socket in 8mm I think for the inner hub unbolting.

The inner hub is ( the inner CV joint on the axle ) ?

As to replacing the bearring have you done that with the carrier in place ?

thank you

Zulfiqar · #4 04-05-2013, 04:11 PM

the rear bearing cartidge on a W124 is like the front bearing on most FWD cars, the hub is pressed into the bearing inner hole and the whole bearing is pressed into the carrier.

You can make up a neat puller if you have access to a metal working shop or simply unbolt the entire hub carrier from the suspension bits and take it to a machine shop.

to remove the axle you would need to undo all the xzn screws on the diff flange (cover it with bags and cable ties on both axle shaft and diff), lower and support the whole thing and slowly tap the axle snout inwards from the hub, If you have ever owned a mk2 VW Golf you would be right at home with the procedure.

FYVMMF · #5 04-05-2013, 07:24 PM

There are two strategies for doing this job, #1 wheel carrier in place and #2 wheel carrier off the car.

#1

Caliper removed and hung, rotor removed, parking brake stuff removed first. The axle is removed, at the carrier a 30 MM 12 point socket is needed, the axle nut is threadlocked so heating it a bit usually makes it easier, there is a detent in the collar of the nut, if you have an impact tool you can just run it off, if you are using hand tools use a chisel and hammer to unbend the detent then break it free and turn it off.

Inner flange connection is probably a XZN 10 mm, but could be an 8 mm Allen, or a male TORX if someone has been in there before. The easiest way is to clean out the bolt heads well then use an impact with enough extensions to reach into the diff flange. If you're using hand tools plan on bracing the hub with a couple lug bolts and a prybar as you work each bolt and then have to rotate the axle to get access to the next one. With the axle free on the diff side lower it and you can use a drift to move the axle inward and out off the hub.

The required tool is the SIR Tools B90-M ( there are other tools, the Hub Shark, Hub Grabber, etc. but they are all based on the B90 design principle), this is a screw-type puller with its frame and mandrels. The frame is placed, the screw and proper mandrel positioned, and the hub is pulled from the wheel carrier. The bearing's outer shell is removed from the wheel carrier after the large C-clip is removed. Usually the bearing's inner race is stuck to the hub, it can be pulled off or it's often easier to cut it almost all the way through with a grinder and then break it free and off the hub with a hammer and chisel.

Then the SIR tool is first used to pull the new bearing into the wheel carrier, then it is used to pull the hub into bearing already in the wheel carrier.

#2
Caliper removed and hung, rotor removed, parking brake stuff removed first. The axle nut is removed and then each of the 5 links is disconnected from the wheel carrier then the wheel carrier is moved off the axle splined stub. of the five links, some can be disconnected at the wheel carrier end and some at the subframe end, some of the links have adjustability for rear alignment, those links should be disconnected at their non-adjustable end, that way the rear alignment is not altered when reconnecting the links.

With the the wheel carrier free it can be taken to a shop where the hub is pressed out, this destroys the bearing, and the new bearing installed. Then everything can be reassembled back onto the vehicle.

The old bearing is destroyed when the hub is separated. In order to install the new bearing it is pulled into the wheel carrier using a mandrel that makes contact only with the bearing's outer shell, if force is applied elsewhere the bearing will be damaged. Once the bearing is installed into position in the wheel carrier, and the securing C-clip is installed then the hub is pulled into the the bearing's inner race. This is done using a mandrel that only makes contact with the bearing's inner race, if force is applied elsewhere the bearing will be damaged. If someone tries the reverse sequence the bearing will be damaged as the hub/bearing is pressed into the hub.

If you go the wheel carrier off/shop press route it would be advised to make sure they know and understand exactly what they are doing before you give them your $75 bearing to install/damage.

Here's a rather poor video of the B90 in use, but it shows the basic process

http://youtu.be/vxcRUKYsTG0

Chris_ · #6 04-06-2013, 07:33 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by FYVMMF

There are two strategies for doing this job, #1 wheel carrier in place and #2 wheel carrier off the car.

#1

Caliper removed and hung, rotor removed, parking brake stuff removed first. The axle is removed, at the carrier a 30 MM 12 point socket is needed, the axle nut is threadlocked so heating it a bit usually makes it easier, there is a detent in the collar of the nut, if you have an impact tool you can just run it off, if you are using hand tools use a chisel and hammer to unbend the detent then break it free and turn it off.

Inner flange connection is probably a XZN 10 mm, but could be an 8 mm Allen, or a male TORX if someone has been in there before. The easiest way is to clean out the bolt heads well then use an impact with enough extensions to reach into the diff flange. If you're using hand tools plan on bracing the hub with a couple lug bolts and a prybar as you work each bolt and then have to rotate the axle to get access to the next one. With the axle free on the diff side lower it and you can use a drift to move the axle inward and out off the hub.

The required tool is the SIR Tools B90-M ( there are other tools, the Hub Shark, Hub Grabber, etc. but they are all based on the B90 design principle), this is a screw-type puller with its frame and mandrels. The frame is placed, the screw and proper mandrel positioned, and the hub is pulled from the wheel carrier. The bearing's outer shell is removed from the wheel carrier after the large C-clip is removed. Usually the bearing's inner race is stuck to the hub, it can be pulled off or it's often easier to cut it almost all the way through with a grinder and then break it free and off the hub with a hammer and chisel.

Then the SIR tool is first used to pull the new bearing into the wheel carrier, then it is used to pull the hub into bearing already in the wheel carrier.

#2
Caliper removed and hung, rotor removed, parking brake stuff removed first. The axle nut is removed and then each of the 5 links is disconnected from the wheel carrier then the wheel carrier is moved off the axle splined stub. of the five links, some can be disconnected at the wheel carrier end and some at the subframe end, some of the links have adjustability for rear alignment, those links should be disconnected at their non-adjustable end, that way the rear alignment is not altered when reconnecting the links.

With the the wheel carrier free it can be taken to a shop where the hub is pressed out, this destroys the bearing, and the new bearing installed. Then everything can be reassembled back onto the vehicle.

The old bearing is destroyed when the hub is separated. In order to install the new bearing it is pulled into the wheel carrier using a mandrel that makes contact only with the bearing's outer shell, if force is applied elsewhere the bearing will be damaged. Once the bearing is installed into position in the wheel carrier, and the securing C-clip is installed then the hub is pulled into the the bearing's inner race. This is done using a mandrel that only makes contact with the bearing's inner race, if force is applied elsewhere the bearing will be damaged. If someone tries the reverse sequence the bearing will be damaged as the hub/bearing is pressed into the hub.

If you go the wheel carrier off/shop press route it would be advised to make sure they know and understand exactly what they are doing before you give them your $75 bearing to install/damage.

Here's a rather poor video of the B90 in use, but it shows the basic process

http://youtu.be/vxcRUKYsTG0

Thank you very much for the detailed description.
Very Helpful

Is the Toe-in adjustment the only alignment adjustment that may be affected by removal of the carrier ? ( in the chasiss manual there is only reference to checking the camber based on possible bent or damaged components leading me to believe that if I am careful to locate the support rod that affects the toe adjustment then I could circumvent a possible change to the alignment)

regards