JB-Welding Upper Radiator Seam - Page 2 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

BenzDieselTuner · #16 04-09-2013, 10:40 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Simpler=Better

As I read it, he just has a minor leak-not a big gaping hole, which JB weld would be perfect for sealing.

yes, it "seeps" the entire length of the radiator.....the upper seam, where it joins the plastic top part of the radiator......

obviously the only way to see if it works is to do it.....but yeah, i agree, i figured getting it good and clean with brake spray would be the way to go, if its going to work at all....

no 240 D radiators at the parts yard at the moment.....sucks, 6 months back they had an 85 euro 240 D, which has a BIG radiator, like a 300turbdiesel, and a comparatively massive oil cooler.....didnt have the money for that then though, and i didnt need it yet anyways....

BenzDieselTuner · #17 04-09-2013, 10:42 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jackson101

I once used a syringe (no needle of course) to inject epoxy into a radiator crack. This caused the epoxy to "splay" on the inside, forming an nice seal on the interior of the crack. Never did leak again.

It's too bad you only got 200K miles out of the first one. You suppose it's still under warranty?

LOL....

mine's got 320k on her

vstech · #18 04-09-2013, 12:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BenzDieselTuner

yes, it "seeps" the entire length of the radiator.....the upper seam, where it joins the plastic top part of the radiator......

obviously the only way to see if it works is to do it.....but yeah, i agree, i figured getting it good and clean with brake spray would be the way to go, if its going to work at all....

no 240 D radiators at the parts yard at the moment.....sucks, 6 months back they had an 85 euro 240 D, which has a BIG radiator, like a 300turbdiesel, and a comparatively massive oil cooler.....didnt have the money for that then though, and i didnt need it yet anyways....

I was able to "pinch" the aluminum tight when one of mine started leaking...

FYVMMF · #19 04-09-2013, 12:31 PM

Sometimes the the metal clip that secures the plastic tank to the aluminum core can be squeezed tighter using a modified C clamp to clamp it tighter.

If you decide to go the epoxy route I would strongly suggest an epoxy called Fas-Stick #110 made by FASCO in Hialeah FL. This stuff is specifically formulated as an adhesive epoxy and it adheres tenaciously to whatever it's applied to. You're always well advised to clean, degrease and roughen the material as a preparation of course.

This stuff is the consistency of vaseline and when mixed 1:1 by volume it thins a bit to a cold molasses consistency. If you pull the radiator out to work on it that will allow you to get the epoxy deeper down into every crack and crevice, spread it around so there is a larger area of contact and it will hold better.

Here's their web site, I think they sell on eBay also, you can get a small kit for about $10, and the stuff lasts for years sealed up

Fasco unlimited

They make a number of other specialized epoxies maybe even give them a call and they might have a better recommendation

97 SL320 · #20 04-09-2013, 06:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BenzDieselTuner

yes, it "seeps" the entire length of the radiator.....the upper seam, where it joins the plastic top part of the radiator...

There is a rubber gasket between the header and tank then shrinks as it ages. Crimping can help, ( do it when the rad is warm and not pressurized. )

If you use epoxy to seal this, go all the way around otherwise it will leak.

BenzDieselTuner · #21 04-09-2013, 08:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by nelbur

About 30 years ago some of the manufacturers of antifreeze sold a coolant with leak sealer in it as a value added. I'm guessing they stopped because brown sludge on the bottom of the jug was off putting to those who forgot to shake the jug.

i use AMSOIL coolant, which also has this feature.....it "foams" (technicaly, not literally) out through any hairline cracks, such as block, head, gasket, radiator cores, etc, and this then hardens, which stops the leak....and it stays a nice bright yellow so you can see where you had a leak.....neat stuff.....

i cant remember seeing any coolant with stopleak before, as far as i recall.....

though this is happening constantly, and hardening up as it should and stopping the leak, when the temp cools off, probably due to the contraction, it begins to seep out again.....

i appreciate all the input so far.....between everyone's experiences, i can make a educated assumption of what i am going to do...

BenzDieselTuner · #22 04-09-2013, 08:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by vstech

I was able to "pinch" the aluminum tight when one of mine started leaking...

very interesting ! do you mind elaborating ?

BenzDieselTuner · #23 04-09-2013, 08:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by FYVMMF

Sometimes the the metal clip that secures the plastic tank to the aluminum core can be squeezed tighter using a modified C clamp to clamp it tighter.

If you decide to go the epoxy route I would strongly suggest an epoxy called Fas-Stick #110 made by FASCO in Hialeah FL. This stuff is specifically formulated as an adhesive epoxy and it adheres tenaciously to whatever it's applied to. You're always well advised to clean, degrease and roughen the material as a preparation of course.

This stuff is the consistency of vaseline and when mixed 1:1 by volume it thins a bit to a cold molasses consistency. If you pull the radiator out to work on it that will allow you to get the epoxy deeper down into every crack and crevice, spread it around so there is a larger area of contact and it will hold better.

Here's their web site, I think they sell on eBay also, you can get a small kit for about $10, and the stuff lasts for years sealed up

Fasco unlimited

They make a number of other specialized epoxies maybe even give them a call and they might have a better recommendation

good info, thanks ! i will look into them, that sounds very interesting, not just for this repair....

as far as "tank clips" are concerned, i never knew they had them, i always assumed they were "adhered" in some way......

BenzDieselTuner · #24 04-09-2013, 08:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 97 SL320

There is a rubber gasket between the header and tank then shrinks as it ages. Crimping can help, ( do it when the rad is warm and not pressurized. )

If you use epoxy to seal this, go all the way around otherwise it will leak.

another thing learned ! i was not aware that these aluminum/plastic radiators have gaskets sealing the plastic to the metal.....so i assume this is something the local radiator pro could do ? (i assumed if i were to go there they would just say its no good and send me away) i would tell him to do them both, top and bottom if possible, but not to flush or brush out or pressure test anything, just leave it alone and do the seals......'think this is an option ??

97 SL320 · #25 04-09-2013, 09:11 PM

Removing / replacing end tanks is a complicated not always successful operation that takes special tools. ( The tabs are usually partly cracked during the initial bending and won't survive another open close operation. )

My 97 SL had weeping end tanks and I contacted Behr for service centers. Tools to do the repair are not really out in the wild so I ended up replacing the rad.

Years ago I has a customer with a Renault Fuego that removed the side tanks and epoxied them back on. It seemed to work as long as I saw the car.