1995 E300D OM606 Won't start - Page 3 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

Jonsirr · #31 10-09-2013, 05:04 AM

Thanks for the input on the fuel lines.

Concerning the flow plugs: Again, they were all working properly before I began this project but now one of the posts at the plug is showing considerable resistance. Does anyone know which post correlates to its respective glow plug? I'd like to only replace the one and save myself the hassle for now.

Jon

vstech · #32 10-09-2013, 08:07 AM

I'm not familiar with the 606, but the harness usually is numbered from front to rear.

Jonsirr · #33 10-09-2013, 08:20 AM

Awesome, I'll take a look at it in a few minutes.

Concerning my fuel issue, other than the remaining air leaks, is there anything with the injection pump that I can test?

What is that circular electrical device on the rear of the injection pump closest to the firewall? It has two posts, neither of which seem to have power going to them with the key on or off. Obviously the engine doesn't run, so that may be a factor.

Jon

Jonsirr · #34 10-09-2013, 10:51 AM

I jumped power from the battery to the what I believe is called the shutoff solenoid on the rear of the injection pump. I can get it to click with direct power, but it won't actuate by turning the key. Is there a relay that supplies this device power? I've read quite a bit about troublesome relays, but can't seem to find anything specifically for my engine.

I have all of the injector lines cracked and don't have any fuel coming from the lines. I cranked the engine with that solenoid jumped, but it was difficult to determine if fuel was actually circulating.

Making progress, but I still need some advice.

Thanks guys.

Jon

Jonsirr · #35 10-09-2013, 12:52 PM

Now I replaced the OVP relay, and I'm still not getting any fuel to the injectors.

How is the engine wiring harness grounded? Maybe I missed something when I replaced the harness which isn't allowing that shutoff to open properly.

Any ideas?

Jon

Chris W. · #36 10-09-2013, 01:22 PM

I can't help much other than to say don't worry if you have 1 or 2 glow plugs not working. The car will start and run if you have 4 of 6 GP's working, maybe even with 3. It will run like crap until the dead cylinders warm enough to start firing, but it will run if you get to the root of the problem. So focus on the fuel issue first IMHO.

Rgds,
Chris W.
'95 E300D, 405K

Jonsirr · #37 10-09-2013, 02:29 PM

It RUNS!

Think it was just air in the lines.

Thanks boys

Jon

GreenDiesel · #38 12-08-2013, 02:50 PM

Was organizing my garage today, found the tools I used to replace the strainer and then realized I didn't do a very good job on my updates.

All the cranking and brief starting drained my main fuel filter so I refilled the filter and got the Benz running again, albeit running very poorly. Put it up on ramps in the back to begin working on the fuel strainer.

After an hour and a half of struggling to get the strainer AND the hose connected to the strainer loose I finally gave up. I put everything back together, went online and ordered a specialty socket to remove the strainer (https://**************.com/store/201-124-late-126-chassis-fuel-tank-outlet-screen-removal-socket). *If you're looking for the tool just search Google for, "fuel tank outlet screen removal socket".

The weekend after I received the socket I ran the fuel tank as low as possible, disconnected the line, drained it in to a container and then began working to disconnect the line from the filter. After over an hour of maneuvering I STILL couldn't get the damn fuel line off with a 19MM wrench or adjustable vice grips. The clearance simply wasn't there for how much force I needed to apply.

I went to the store to find a 19MM wrench with a pivoting head, O'Reilly only sold a set and the set was priced at $90. That wasn't happening. BUT while I was looking around I found an 8-in-1 adjustable socket wrench for $20 and thought it would work (8-In-1 Metric Wrench). It did and it made everything much easier.

What I ended up having to do was run the fuel hose through the 19MM socket and out the bottom of the 15MM keeping the wrench perpendicular to the strainer (see picture of the tool if this doesn't make sense). I then put a 10MM allen key at the opposite end of the wrench in the 10MM socket, slipped a breaker bar over the key to get leverage, and then finally hand enough torque to pop it loose.

Used the 17MM on the specialty strainer socket and again used the 10MM key and breaker bar to apply enough force to break it loose.

When I removed the filter quite a bit more fuel came gushing out along with a lot of brown gunk, and the filter was absolutely covered in slime. I cleaned the basin around the filter as best I could and then spent 5 minutes buttoning everything back up. Cranked it and WOW! It started much easier and ran much better.

Thanks for the advice, sorry it took so long to reply.