Definitely agree on the look of the lug bolts...the extended ones look a lot better, but after a lot of research and searching, plus having the same short lug bolts (purchased from the MB dealer parts dept) on my SD, I'm okay with them. But the shorter bolts are identical except that the head sits lower...again, a genuine MB part. You can't get the extended ones new anymore (at least not from MB) as they were discontinued due to breaking/shearing off.

Beyond aesthetics, it's easier to confirm lug bolts are all in place if the tips are flush with the face. You can pop clean caps onto previously loved long lug bolts, or so I heard. Snapping lug bolts aren't a problem in California particularly if you apply anti-seize to the threads and cup. If you mind who touches your lug bolts and carry a $15 Harbor Freight torque wrench with the jack, they'll never be over-tightened.

They are 107 or 126 prefix wheels rather than 124 prefix, right?

Just curious, is it an MB Behr, after market Behr or Nissens radiator?

Sixto
87 300D

Undercarriage looks good. I need to replace the rear sway bar links, and that's next on my list. The only real leaking is from the transmission, and I knew that when I bough the car (it was divulged by the PO). The transmission also jerks (with a slight delay) when shifted from park to reverse. I've read that these transmissions can last up to about 125K, depending on how they were maintained (fluid & filter changes, especially). I've already talked to a local shop that I specializes in rebuilding MB transmissions and has a good reputation. So that's the direction that I am headed, at some point. I do not plan to put any money into the current transmission.

Okay, let's talk about the coolant. It actually looks blue. It's certainly not the generic green stuff you buy at PepBoys. I just went down and checked it, as well as the genuine MB coolant that I bought at the dealer, in both the SDL and the SD. The coolant in the SDL looks blue, as I said, as does what is inside the unopened container that I bought at the dealer (specially for the SDL). It states that it is for aluminum engines.

The SD has what looks like yellow coolant, and the two unopened containers of genuine MB coolant that I have in the trunk also look yellowish. The part numbers on the coolant bottles for the two cars are different.

My mechanic only uses genuine MB or OEM parts. The MB coolant that I got for the SD, I actually purchased from my mechanic.

See pics below. Let me know if you're seeing something that I'm not seeing. The last two photos are the SD...

300SDL:

http://i1332.photobucket.com/albums/...ps572c38da.jpg
http://i1332.photobucket.com/albums/...ps2c5adfeb.jpg
http://i1332.photobucket.com/albums/...ps10a6947d.jpg
http://i1332.photobucket.com/albums/...ps30ed142a.jpg

300SD:

http://i1332.photobucket.com/albums/...ps18b3fbc9.jpg
http://i1332.photobucket.com/albums/...psd8efa290.jpg

I purchased the radiator from a fellow forum member who pulled it from a wrecked SDL. I believe it was made in 2011. As far as I know it's an MB Behr. I had posted that i was having a hard time finding a new radiator online, and before I found the used one on the forum (thanks to those who responded), which is what is installed, I also found one place online that had two Behrs in stock, so I ordered one and have it sitting in the box, just in case I ever need it. The used one arrived first, so that's what I had installed. My mechanic pressure tested it and said everything looked good.

How do I tell the difference between MB Behr and after market Behr? The box that my NOS is in is yellow and blue (I can take a picture if necessary).

Yes, 126 prefix wheels.

Forgot to mention the pin stripes...I agree, not really to my taste, especially how they continue above the head lights, but it's original paint (and pin stripes) from 1986...sort of retro cool (at least that's how I justify it). ;-)

You should have seen the house that the old guy original owner lived in...it was painted bright canary yellow and was huge. I got to go inside when I purchased the car and he had the popcorn ceiling with metallic glitter flakes in it...I felt like I was back in the 70s...shag carpet and all. Obviously he likes yellow (or did at the time). Not sure why MB decided to call this color "light ivory". It's not as yellow as an 86 Couple DeVille in Cadillac yellow, but it's darned close!

Yes, the latest MB spec coolant is blue. It's a pity it looks green through the reservoir as the reservoir yellows with age. Honda brand coolant is a darker shade of blue and there's a following of MB'ers who swear by it.

A 722.3 should be good for 250-300K miles with basic service. With the symptoms you describe, it doesn't make a lot of sense to drop it for new seals alone, though consider seals that can be replaced without dropping the tranny if you don't plan to put a lot of miles on the car.

Sixto
87 300D

Thanks for the input. I did replace the coolant reservoir in the SD, as the old one cracked. You're right, though...the yellowing of the plastic does make the blue look green!

I forgot to mention one other symptom of my transmission...it sometimes shifts from 2 to 3 and 3 to 4 at the same time, depending on the load/acceleration, and I've also noticed that sometimes when it kicks down a gear, it will jerk a bit.

My only other issue with this car is that the engine seems to be louder than it should be, as compared to the two other SDLs that I drove. I posted about this previously and received several suggestions that I plan on having my mechanic look at next time it's in for service. I'm wondering if the transmission could have anything to do with this...

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/339244-vibration-engine-compartment-common-causes-om603.html

My 300D does the almost simultaneous 2-3 3-4 under light to medium throttle for the ~80K miles I've had the car and who knows how long with the PO. Mash the pedal and it shifts properly. Someone suggested dropping the valve body for a thorough cleaning. I don't yet trust myself with the level of cleanliness that job requires.

Sixto
87 300D

I take it the encapsulation panels are in place and the hood pas hasn't disintegrated...

Try a couple of cans of Diesel Purge or even a tank or two of B20. If that quiets things, you might be due for an injector cleaning. Check also chain stretch and IP timing.

Sixto
87 300D

Encapsulation panels are in place, as is hood pad, though it's in need of replacement soon. I just did a diesel purge and that had no effect. It's hard to describe the noise I'm referring to...it's more like a vibration, and just makes the engine sound loud, especially as the revs climb. It's almost like I'm driving an unrefined GM 4 cylinder.

I will add chain stretch and IP timing to the list of suggested items to have checked (along with the serp belt tensioner arm, pulley, shock & spring and the engine vibration damper shocks). I just had the motor mounts replaced, so it's not those. Thanks for the suggestions.

BTW, the previous owner's son replaced the injectors with Monark injectors. I know he did a bunch of research on it, and purchased his own pop tester to do the work. I'm not sure when that work was done, though, so it's possible that they need to be cleaned. I remember him telling me that his dad was very gentle and slow with the car, and that when he (the son) drove it, he liked to push it hard. Other than the diesel purge that I just performed, it's probably in need of a good "Italian tune-up"...

mmmmmmkay class?
 

The radiator issue is another to get filed, along with the cylinder head discussion, in the "way overblown" category. Keep the coolant circuit maintained with proper fluid and change intervals and, everything else equal, you're fine. The Behr in my '86, though I cannot prove, is odds on original and works flawlessly. Even had the "broken neck" as with your experience. Slapped it the "waterweld" and it hasn't sassed yet. That was two months ago. Do the alloy and coolant degrade structurally? Sure. To the extreme you need 400 dollar radiators every several years? Nahhhh. Somethin else there, stop with the gauze already. Unless you like buying expensive bandaids? It's your money.

Thanks for the clarification on temp gauge behavior. Just acquiring more example data. I flog the hell out of my Johanna, some several times a week, up the Cajon Summit (aka Cajon Pass) doin 85 to 95 the entire stretch. Devore to the crest with ambients over 90 (last week) and I can just get the needle over 100.

Thanks for this, first mention I've seen. Happen to have any bulletins or other lit for the new coolant?

Check. Same here. Obsessive about checking fluid level I am. I know, practice what I preach right? Root causes yadday yadday. Far from intimidating, but ANY transmission work for me is "how do dey say? like pooling teets jah?" I'd almost rather spend my time stacking bb's at the bottom of my swimming pool.

Ahhh. GOT NOISES? Jah?

I concur. I'd put a Bennie on the injectors here. Here's a simple and inexpensive way to exclude nailing from the list. If you don't have a stethoscope, try a screwdriver (one with metal end to end) against each injector. I did. TADA! Nos. 1 and 2 need attention on my SDL. There's no mistaking the sound of nailing with help of a makeshift noise filter. Restricted to tests while idling, of course. Unless you're the adventurous type!:D

Good lux

MBZ123

mmmmmmkay class?
 

The radiator issue is another to get filed, along with the cylinder head discussion, in the "way overblown" category. Keep the coolant circuit maintained with proper fluid and change intervals and, everything else equal, you're fine. The Behr in my '86, though I cannot prove, is odds on original and works flawlessly. Even had the "broken neck" as with your experience. Slapped it the "waterweld" and it hasn't sassed yet. That was two months ago. Do the alloy and coolant degrade structurally? Sure. To the extreme you need 400 dollar radiators every several years? Nahhhh. Somethin else there, stop with the gauze already. Unless you like buying expensive bandaids? It's your money.

Thanks for the clarification on temp gauge behavior. Just acquiring more example data. I flog the hell out of my Johanna, some several times a week, up the Cajon Summit (aka Cajon Pass) doin 85 to 95 the entire stretch. Devore to the crest with ambients over 90 (last week) and I can just get the needle over 100.

Thanks for this, first mention I've seen. Happen to have any bulletins or other lit for the new coolant?

Check. Same here. Obsessive about checking fluid level I am. I know, practice what I preach right? Root causes yadday yadday. Far from intimidating, but ANY transmission work for me is "how do dey say? like pooling teets jah?" I'd almost rather spend my time stacking bb's at the bottom of my swimming pool.

Ahhh. GOT NOISES? Jah?

I concur. I'd put a Bennie on the injectors here. Here's a simple and inexpensive way to exclude nailing from the list. If you don't have a stethoscope, try a screwdriver (one with metal end to end) against each injector. I did. TADA! Nos. 1 and 2 need attention on my SDL. There's no mistaking the sound of nailing with help of a makeshift noise filter. Restricted to tests while idling, of course. Unless you're the adventurous type!:D

Good lux

MBZ123