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Old 06-24-2013, 02:21 PM
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Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Barrington, RI
Posts: 5,925
What are the possible symptoms of improperly adjusted throttle?

I'm trying to acquaint myself with the ins and outs of throttle adjustments...am looking at FSM 30-1010 and 30-3402. My 95 E300D is in the shop right now getting its weak acceleration and black smoke diagnosed. I suspect a clogged cat or maybe stuck-open EGR. BUT a nagging question I have has do with how the throttle is adjusted.

When I got the car, instead of a proper throttle guide it had a makeshift piece of metal screwed into the part in which the throttle guide should sit. So I removed that and replaced with the guide. But when I did that the idle was too high. So I adjusted the nut on the cable to reduce the idle. But now I'm wondering if, in my fiddling around with things, I created the problems I'm experiencing. I also notice that the spring that's supposed to be in the assembly is missing. In event, my problems surfaced immediately after replacing the guide. Coincidental or causal?

So there are a number of variables. Can you guys help me get a basic understanding of the various adjustments and what the symptoms would be if particular things aren't adjusted correctly? Thanks so much.

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Old 06-24-2013, 03:32 PM
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Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: TX
Posts: 3,993
the link setup is very easy on an OM606.910

it only relays side to side motion to up/down motion. There is a ball joint that connects to the pump linkage, this is to take out all slack from the linkage primarily.

The way I do it is to loosen the big knurled ring (accelerator side), remove the trans bowden socket from the other end. You will need to remove the crossover tube to see the pump stop.

loosen the pump linkage adjuster (it slides in a curved groove) and hold the linkage taut to remove all play, Inspect the linkage at the pump with a mirror and flashlight, ensuring full throttle stop position is reached.

when your adjustment is good, tighten the large knurled ring till you have taken out all slack from the pulling, the end washer should just contact the cone spring at the cable end.

Connect the bowden cable back by removal of all slack from it an it lays in neutral position when linkage is at rest. Apply some hydraulic tractor fluid to lubricate the entire contraption.

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