Wagon Tailgate Struts - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

Peyton300TD · #1 09-29-2002, 04:54 PM

It's time for me to replace my tailgate struts/shocks. I did a search on this and didn't see much on how it is done. Is this a Do-It-Yourself job or not?

Also, some have said it is a pain in the ass, others say it isn't if you know the tricks. something about removing the rear speaker covers and getting at them from there?

any tips on how this is done?

also, any idea where the cheapest source for the struts are?

Thanks!

eric

lrg · #2 09-29-2002, 10:22 PM

This is an easy DIY job. I bought the struts from a local MBZ parts house but I bet Phil can get them. You'll need to prop the tailgate up with a broomstick and remove the cover at the very back of the headliner above the tailgate. Peel back a small area of the headliner where it covers the front bolt and the bolts will be easy to access. I got away with using an allen wrench but look closely, you may need a 12 point driver (I'm not sure the size). Just follow your nose, it's pretty obvious how to do it. The struts are removed and replaced through the opening by the liftgate hinge. You'll have to move the liftgate up and down a bit to wiggle them out but they will come out. Do one side at a time so you get at least some support while you are working. All in I think it took me about an hour to do both sides. Good luck.

rickjordan · #3 09-30-2002, 01:07 AM

My TD is the same exact color as the one in the back round, silver/blue. Of course I haven't seen my TD in a month, since I am away out of the country.

autozen · #4 09-30-2002, 10:50 AM

IRG prettywell described the operation. I can only add a couple of suggestions. After you take the screws out of that large panel back there, slide it towards the front of the car to keep from breaking the clips off. Also MB uses lock tite on the screws for the shocks. Use a micro torch to heat the screws to break the bond.

Good luck,
Peter

#5 10-02-2002, 02:21 PM

If I remember correctly the old shocks were easier to withdraw when rotated towards the inside a little...just play around with the rotation while gently pulling them backwards and out.
When it comes out, take note of the its orientation and insert the new one the same way.

Peyton300TD · #6 10-27-2002, 08:58 PM

okay, first thanks for your help. now i shall give you an update on how it went.

terrible! ahh! im so frustrated.

peeled away the liner.. used a 6mm hex wrench/allen key to unscrew the forward peice. well... the screw is SO tight that it won't turn at all. i did try using a microtorch and heating it first, didn't help. eventually the screw became stripped.

so i drilled into the screw, than hammered a tap into it to try and turn it. no joy. it even distorted the tap. i didn't even bother with trying the shock on the other side.

it is UNBELIEVABLE how tight it is. i don't understand. did anyone else run into this problem??? honest to god, i did everything correctly and carefully. i was doing them with a friend and his wagon, but both wagon's were this tight.

so ive abandoned my efforts at getting the screw out. i think ill go to a body shop and have them remove the screw unless you have some super amazing idea.

argh!!

thanks
eric

kerry · #7 10-27-2002, 09:19 PM

I don't know exactly where the screw is and how much room you have to work, but I would try a hand impact tool to break it free. The combination of shock and twist can often be effective.

jas2wa · #8 10-28-2002, 10:45 AM

Yes, after the tailgate whacked me in the head this morning, I am especially dissapointed that Eric (peyton300td) and I couldn't finish this job yesterday- waiting for ideas on how to get those hex bolts out...

Justin

autozen · #9 10-28-2002, 10:53 AM

Eric,

As a professional MB mechanic, I've been doing it this way for years. I can only guess you were too timid with the use of the microtorch. You better get practiced because if you ever need to remove your steering wheel or remove the load leveling cylinders, you will run into the same situation.

Good luck,
Peter

Peyton300TD · #10 10-28-2002, 11:50 AM

haha thanks for your advice. you're probably right. do you have any tips on removing the bolt now that it is stripped?

it's hard to take a flame to the interior of my baby! with all that headliner nearby, wires above, and foam stuff next to it. eek! but i did it anyhow with the torch on low flame to be precise. how long do you heat it for? or do you use a longer flame?

eric

kerry · #11 10-28-2002, 02:04 PM

If you go to the plumbing supply section of hardware stores you will find small pieces of flameproof material that plumbers use to protect wood etc when they are soldering. You can use them to protect your baby while heating the screw.

autozen · #12 10-31-2002, 11:20 AM

Eric,

Are you using a microtorch with a pencil thin flame or something like a Benz-o-matic? You don't want to be using flame throwers around that headliner. I've tried to enclose a couple of pics of what I use. I hope they come through. This unit costs about $60.00, but worth every penny.It doesn't leak the gas out like those cheap matchlights. I use it for pilot lights, barbecues, my fireplace, candles, and melting the locktite on micro encapsulated bolts. I don't know what to suggest on the buggered bolt except hammer and chisel after heating. You could also try the round style easy out.

Good luck,
Peter

PS: Why don't you just do what people with American cars do? Keep a prop stick in the car.

jas2wa · #13 10-31-2002, 11:31 AM

Ok, my tailgate struts are done, finally. Took it to my trusty mechanic, who removed the bolts with the proper 12-point hex tool, not a 6-point allen that the manuals suggest- this is why Eric and I stripped the one on his wagon. New struts are in, the tailgate flies open now- instead of getting it in the back of the head, I think I'll probably take a whack on the chin...

Also, kinda funny- my mechanic actually thinks I am crazy- said in all his years, I am the 1st person to actually want the struts changed- he said everyone else just uses the broomstick method. Thing is- it's such a clever, fully-concealed design, that I hate to not have it working.

Now it does.

-Justin

#14 11-10-2002, 12:46 AM

Did my struts today. Not a 1 hour job, but mostly because of touring local au-sto shops for 12 point tools.

I tried a 6mm allen tool on my right strut first-seemed like the rotation I saw was due to stripping on the bolt head rather than rotation of the bolt, so rather than ending in Eric's situation I went looking for 12 pt (they're also called triple box) drivers. Found a single 8mm which seemed right at a NAPA store; I was skeered that it might strip further without checking other sizes, so I continued to Autozone, which had a set of 4 on 1/2 hex shanks. The 6mm was too small, the 8mm seemed right, and fit well on the untouched left strut retaining bolt.

I did use a microtorch, heating the bolt for about 2 minutes. Then with the tool mounted on a 3/8 inch ratchet with a 1/2"" long socket, was able to free the left retaining bolt. Not that difficult, but not just simply backing it out, either. (On the semi-stripped right retaining bolt I wacked the driver into the head a couple times with a ball peen hammer, which apparently seated the tool past the crap I'd created.)

I tried removing the hinge from the tailgate to remove the strut. Not a good idea. Although the pin/clip assembly looks difficult to work with (partidularly while covered w/grease) it really isn't. Clean the grease off with a rag, rotate the retaining clip with a small screwdriver, and either pry it out with the screwdriver or pull out with longnose pliers - it has a tab at the back to make removal or insertion easy. Muscle the tailgate on the corner you're working on up as high as you can, and move the "y" connecter of the strut under the hinge to the inside. Then you can pull the strut right out.

Note that the old strut has the plane holes for the rear retaining bolt parallel to the holes for the front retaining pin/clip assembly. The new strut won't look quite like that, but the "y" connector is screwed into the strut shaft and will rotate. You may have to place the rear strut into a vise and free the front "y" with pliers, as I did on one of the two struts I had.

Reassembly has two time consuming "jiggling" operations. First, the rear of the strut must be inserted fully back between the right and left posts that the retaining bolt passes through. I had difficulty with aligning the strut on one side, and finally used a coat hanger bent back on itself to support the strut from underneath to raise the rear to the correct level for the bolt to pass through. When you get the bolt passed throught the strut and the threads on the shank begin to fit correctly, don't torque it down. You need some play for the second "jiggling" operation.

In order to get the "Y" connector at the front of the strut on the hinge, you'll again have to muscle the tailgate up on that corner and slide the "y" under the hinge. Aligning the pin thru the strut and the hinge is fun. It seemed easier to place the pin on the inside of each hinge, rather than the outside as was original. After some cursing, it is possible to refit the pin; replace the clip with longnose pliers, and tighten the front retaining bolt and you're home free. ( replace headliner, plastic panel, rear interior light, etc....)

Peyton300TD · #15 11-28-2002, 03:40 PM

well... ive got one in so far! hah and it is chilly outside so im taking a break.

i thought id just post a couple more suggestions to those who may attempt this in the future because it has become a valuable thread.

never ended up using a microtorch, i think the appropriate 12 pointed tool will work fine, just be careful.

you shouldn't need to force the shock in or out, it just takes some jiggling and maneuvering. always remove the shock on the INSIDE of the tailgate hinge, not the outerside. one question i had was should that fork at the end (which swivels) be tight before installation? it is much more versatile when loose to get it in. we ended up tightening it so it is appropriately aligned with the other end of the shock and then putting it in.

when screwing teh 12 point screw back in we recieved an ENORMOUS amount of resistence. in fact, it seemed to be going in slightly crooked. but that's normal. the top end of the screw will sit a little farther off the frame of the car than the bottom end. just a hair though.

anytips for getting the headliner back in underneat the rubber trim?

wow, the thing just blasts up into the air, really fast and powerful

cheers and happy thanksgiving

eric