Broken Battery Tray Stud Problem

[shertex]

Need to replace the battery on my 95. Went out to remove the old battery and found that, when I turned the nut, the stud turned with it. So it's rusted away from the car. If I try to pull up, it won't come out; it's holding on to the car. So.....

1. What can I do remove that plate to get the old battery out?

2. What can I devise the hold the new battery securely? I imagine the right way to do it is to weld in a new stud. I'm in search of the cheap-yet-safe-and-secure approach.

Thansk.

[David Wilson]

I had the same issue last year on my 87. Thought about several half ass fixes. Ended up using an angle grinder to cut the nuts off above the tray. The tray was already rusted up pretty good, so I didn't worry about damaging it.

Then I cut the studs off tight to the bottom. I got some bolts that were the same size thread, steel. Grind-ed the head down to a thinner depth. And welded the bolt (mig)to the old stud base. A small amount at a time. There is too much stuff in the way to clear the back side for safe welding, so easy goes it. Take your time.

I got a good tray at the local pick n pull. Cleaned it all up, primed, painted, new nuts. Sprayed all the exposed metal with Boeshield, good as new.

Good luck

[shertex]

Originally Posted by David Wilson

I had the same issue last year on my 87. Thought about several half ass fixes. Ended up using an angle grinder to cut the nuts off above the tray. The tray was already rusted up pretty good, so I didn't worry about damaging it.

Then I cut the studs off tight to the bottom. I got some bolts that were the same size thread, steel. Grind-ed the head down to a thinner depth. And welded the bolt (mig)to the old stud base. A small amount at a time. There is too much stuff in the way to clear the back side for safe welding, so easy goes it. Take your time.

I got a good tray at the local pick n pull. Cleaned it all up, primed, painted, new nuts. Sprayed all the exposed metal with Boeshield, good as new.

Good luck

That sounds like the right approach....wish I had the equipment and the skills.

If I can get the nut and stud free, one solution I thought of was using a molly: it would go through the hole and then pull on the back of the bracket under the tray. I would think that would be secure.

[Diesel911]

If there is room you can use a Nut Splitter and split the Nut/s. You can do an eBay search and see what the Tool looks like.
Sears and also cheapie Tool places sell them.

[shertex]

Originally Posted by Diesel911

If there is room you can use a Nut Splitter and split the Nut/s. You can do an eBay search and see what the Tool looks like.
Sears and also cheapie Tool places sell them.

Sounds promising. I have had absolutely NO SUCCESS in trying to apply pressure to get the nut to turn. Part of the problem, I think, is that I have no way of knowing whether pressure is being applied to the base of the stud or the bottom of the nut. If it's the latter, then that method stands no chance of success.

[martureo]

How much is a new tray?

I fought with one on a w123 that had a similar problem. New one from the dealer was $37.

[shertex]

Originally Posted by martureo

How much is a new tray?

I fought with one on a w123 that had a similar problem. New one from the dealer was $37.

I think the tray's OK....it's removing the bracket that's the problem.