With the engine installed in the S-10 I don't like where I was planning to install the oil pressure sender. As you guys may recall, I bypassed the oil cooler as the engine won't run all that long - I made a loop with push-on high pressure hose. So the question is:

Any issue sensing OP out of the oil cooler loop? I can just put in a T and grab the leg of the T for the sensor. I'll just plug the original sensor port.

Dan

Oil flow to the cooler is controlled by a thermostat.

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Why not use the port on the filter tower where the original dash gauge went?

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2014 ML350 Bluetec (wife's DD)
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both my kids cars went to junkyard in 2023
2008 ML320 CDI (Older son’s DD) fatal transmission failure, water soaked/fried rear SAM, numerous other issues, just too far gone to save (165k miles)
2008 E320 Bluetec (Younger son's DD) injector failed open and diluted oil with diesel, spun main bearings (240k miles)

1998 E300DT sold to TimFreeh
1987 300TD sold to vstech

x2

I did this for mine. Summit makes quite a nice metric to 1/4 NPT adapter that will fit just aboit any sender, and threads right into the stock port

Plus you gotta deal with the thermostat, and cap off the stock port anyway if you want to use one of the cooler lines. Seems like an awful lot of work for little benefit, especially with one piece fittings out there

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If the oil cooler is not being used, why the sudden concern about oil pressure? To me, it sounds like an engine with a short life expectancy.

However, oil pressure is best measured from the filter housing where the original port is; be it a sensor or mechanical gauge.

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1991 F250 super-cab 7.3 IDI. (rebuilt by me) Banks Sidewinder turbo, hydroboost brakes, new IP and injectors.
2003 S430 - 107K
1983 300SD - Tanoshii - mostly restored ~400K+.
1983 300SD - Good interior. Engine finally tamed ~250K.
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Absolutely the Oil going through the Oil Cooler is unfiltered Oil. That means if the Oil Filter for some reason got obstructed you would show a rise in Oil Pressure and think that everthing is OK.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

The stock port wound up in a really inaccessible place between the back of the engine, the scattershield, and the firewall. After all, the 617 was not designed to be in an S-10! So I need to move the sensor somewhere.

Is there another point of access into the oil galleys? I haven't seen any but that doesn't mean that there are none.

Dan

What are you going to see in your car if the filter is obstructed?

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Just do this, but instead of screwing the gauge in directly, screw in the pressure line and mount the gauge in the cab.

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I agree, the engine may not live too long without the cooler. I know of at least two folks who melted their pistons when they bypassed the oil cooler...

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M. Dillon
'87 124.193 (300TD) "White Whale", ~392k miles, 3.5l IP fitted
'95 124.131 (E300) "Sapphire", 380k miles
'73 Balboa 20 "Sanctification"
Charleston SC

If you tap into the Oil Pressure on the outside of the Oil Filter that is Oil that is between the Oil Pump and the Filter and if the Filter becomes restricted the Oil pressure is going go up. And, you are going to think you are having good Oil pressure.
Dirty Oil circulates through the Oil Cooler and back to the outside of the Oil Filter.

If you put the Oil Filter Gauge so it is reading from the Filtered Oil side of the Oil Filter and the Oil Filter becomes restricted enough your Oil Pressure reading will go down and you will know you have a problem.

Unfotunately the Stock Oil Pressure Gauge only goes up to 3 bar and because of that you are not likely to notice your Oil Pressure dropping slighly as the Filter becomes restricted.

In the Manual it has the relief Valve in the Oil Pump opening at 110 psi. My Highest Oil Pressure Hot or cold was about 97 psi (about 6.69 bar).
I could lose about 3.69 bar of Oil pressure from a restricted filter and not notice it on the Oil Pressure Gauge.
If your Oil Filter is partially restricted you might not see an Oil Pressure loss at idle speed but you might be able to notice a slower Oil Pressure buildup when you step on the accelerator.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

My gauge is a Stewart-Warner aftermarket unit - very high quality. It's an electric gauge so no line will go into the interior, just wires. This is a safety concern in LSR cars as you don't want a source of fuel (engine oil) in the event of a line failure. Fire is the biggest safety concern in a race car.

So if the oil filter canister is not a good sensing point, is there another access point into the oil galleys? I can tap in about anywhere.

Dan

Is there a reason why the Pressure Sending unit cannot be connected to the Bottom Rear of the Oil filter Housing where the normal Oil Pressure Sensor or Oil Pressure Line is connected?

In the pic I put the Oil Filter Cap central Tube in My Lathe and drilled and tapped a hole in the Center of the Cap. I used the Hole to attach a Test Gauge and later used it for my Bypass Oil Filter.

The Oil Pressure sending unit on the Cap is for my Low Oil Pressure Alarm.
It will turn the Alarm on around 5-7 psi of Oil Pressure. Which as some member point out is not going to help much if I lose Oil pressure on the high end of the while on the Freeway. But, it is better than noting.

Attached Thumbnails

 

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

In theory, an obstructed filter should cause the filter bypass valve to open, maintaining oil pressure.

I could not agree more.

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For your purposes, the oil filter lid or canister should be more than adequate. And a lot less risky then drilling holes in the block or head.

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