I want to move the battery in my brother's W116 300SD to the trunk. I have already figured out how to route the positive wire, but I need some suggestions of how exactly to do the other parts.

1. What gauge wire should I be using to go from the front of the car to the trunk? I am planning on to put an amp and subwoofer in the trunk to balance out the sound system (bigger alternator is on the way). Would 4awg be fine or should I go for 2awg?

2. What should I ground to? A hitch is bolted to the bottom of the spare tire hole (not technical term), would that be fine to bolt to?

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Current: 1975 450SEL, 83 300D, 88 Yugo GVX, 90 300D OM603 swap, 91 F150 4.6 4v swap, 93 190E Sportline LE 3.0L M104 swap, 93 190E Sportline LE Megasquirt, 03 Sprinter, 06 E500 4Matic wagon.

I don't understand. If you aren't racing, you shouldn't have much of a reason to move the battery to the rear. If you are racing, you shouldn't be putting in amps and subwoofers. What's going on?

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Whoever said there's nothing more expensive than a cheap Mercedes never had a cheap Jaguar.

83 300D Turbo with manual conversion, early W126 vented front rotors and H4 headlights 401,xxx miles
08 Suzuki GSX-R600 M4 Slip-on 26,xxx miles
88 Jaguar XJS V12 94,xxx miles. Work in progress.
99 Mazda Miata 183,xxx miles.

It frees up a lot of room in the engine bay and helps weight distribution

(And batteries in the trunk are cool)

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1978 w123 300D astral silver "Benzie"
1980 w123 300CD orient red "Benzie 2"
1994 w124 E500 "Big Black"
1998 w163 ML320 "Ole' Faithfull"
1969 Datsun 2000 roadster

You're in the wrong car to consider weight distribution. Save your money for something more useful.

The bracket for the vent for the battery tray was extremely loose and rusty (ground goes to this bracket, ground was poor) so we removed it, started cleaning it up but its pretty knackered up and needs to be sanded, painted, the bolts for the battery tray drilled out, new nuts welded on, then weld it back in (which will be done eventually. We need the car ready by Saturday and I don't have much time between now and then to do all of that work. I can't weld it, my friend has a welder and the expertise and can't do it until later, and running the wires will be easier.

I also see benefits of moving the battery such as no more battery acid leaking into the engine bay, which killed the window washer pump ($70) and reservoir ($60). The battery will be in a sealed box to make sure there is no acid leaking into the trunk. Supposedly there is extended battery life because there is less heat in the trunk, these batteries are quite expensive so its nice to have them last longer.

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Current: 1975 450SEL, 83 300D, 88 Yugo GVX, 90 300D OM603 swap, 91 F150 4.6 4v swap, 93 190E Sportline LE 3.0L M104 swap, 93 190E Sportline LE Megasquirt, 03 Sprinter, 06 E500 4Matic wagon.

It's some kind of disorder I think. If you think putting the battery in the trunk is uncalled for, there's someone putting it under the back seat. Sure, it's gonna be unique. Bragging rights!

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85 300D turbo pristine w 157k when purchased 161K now
83 300 D turbo 297K runs great. SOLD!
83 240D 4 spd manual- parted out then junked

90 - 01 R129 SL's and 95 - 00 C class W202 have the bat in trunk, 96 - ? W210 E class have the bat under the rear seat.

I'd have to measure the cable dia but it looks to be AWG " 0 "

On the ground side, run a cable from bat to body. Then run a cable from starter mounting bolt to body. AWG " 2 " should be fine for the ground since it is a short run.

The engine to body cable is critical, if left off other smaller grounds will be overloaded. Sometimes items like speedo cables , shift cables , bearings become a ground path.

94+ v8 Eclass has the battery in the rear also...

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John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread
"as I ride with my a/c on... I have fond memories of sweaty oily saturdays and spewing R12 into the air. THANKS for all you do!

My drivers:
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 560SL convertible
1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!!

1987 300TD
2005 Dodge Sprinter 2500 158"WB
1994GMC 2500 6.5Turbo truck... I had to put the ladder somewhere!

Instead of moving the battery, put an additional battery in the trunk. Run a 0 gauge wire from the front battery positive to the rear batt positive, and don't forget to put an inline fuse.

You can make your own ground, just find a good chunk of steel and sand it.

You will add an additional 700 or so cranking amps, and the rear battery will act somewhat as a capacitor to your amp.

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Eugene

10 E63 AMG
93 300te 4matic
07 BMW X3
14 Ford F-150 Fx2

I might do that later when I can get this bracket back in and have some cash, I would put an AGM battery in the engine bay (Sam's has a Group 49 AGM battery for $165).

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Current: 1975 450SEL, 83 300D, 88 Yugo GVX, 90 300D OM603 swap, 91 F150 4.6 4v swap, 93 190E Sportline LE 3.0L M104 swap, 93 190E Sportline LE Megasquirt, 03 Sprinter, 06 E500 4Matic wagon.

you will get ZERO additional cranking amps... but you will get additional capacity. cranking amps is a function of the battery design, and it is NOT accumulative. what this will give you is longer attempts to crank the car before it dies... better voltage under load, and faster starts, IF the starter was overloading the battery.

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John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread
"as I ride with my a/c on... I have fond memories of sweaty oily saturdays and spewing R12 into the air. THANKS for all you do!

My drivers:
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 560SL convertible
1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!!

1987 300TD
2005 Dodge Sprinter 2500 158"WB
1994GMC 2500 6.5Turbo truck... I had to put the ladder somewhere!

Two batteries in parallel will give more cranking amps, the affect is the same as a physically larger battery.

If a battery has a poor Peukert number is won't like rapid discharge ( cranking ) but will do better over a long draw. Still, it would have to be impossibly bad for a a pair zero gain in cranking amps.

Get 20 feet of cable. I know folks say it can be done with less, but not so IMO. Hop on S T D dot com and I did it. Now, I am going for under the back seat. It can be done, but it's pricey. Only benefit that I can see is more space in engine bay, simpler design in some regards but more issues on the other end. Get a quick release from Anderson. It's nice to un-do the battery with a click. When you route the cable through the back, but a jacket over the cable, e.g., plastic tubing or something similar where it runs thru by the fuel tank. Maybe overkill, but at least you'll have peace of mind with any vibration.

What gauge wire did you use?

EDIT: Never mind, I found it. I think I will go with the 0 AWG since I can't get 1 AWG at Lowes. I still may try to fix this bracket because my friend just told me he is open Thursday to work on it, I can get the rest of the work done by then, and its cheaper to weld than spend $40+ for wire and $20+ for a box.

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Current: 1975 450SEL, 83 300D, 88 Yugo GVX, 90 300D OM603 swap, 91 F150 4.6 4v swap, 93 190E Sportline LE 3.0L M104 swap, 93 190E Sportline LE Megasquirt, 03 Sprinter, 06 E500 4Matic wagon.

Lowes usually sells home building wire. This is not what you want to use as the thick strands make it difficult to work with. And, home wire is usually aluminum so you need to go up a gauge to equal copper.

Truck parts stores have the wire you want for battery use or you can use welding cable.