DIY IP timing lock
 

I swapped out the IP on my W210 606.912 N/A for the IP from a 603.970 that I had lying around.
I needed to lock the IP timing for installation.
I did not have the locking tool and did not want to wait for it.
So I made my own.

1 5/16" long piece of 3/8" od (1/4" id) soft copper tubing.
A notch cut to fit over and hold the timing ridge in place.
The body of the plug for the timing port is hollow up to the head. The copper tube fits inside it.

Get the timing ridge in the center of the port.
Install the tube so the notch catches the ridge.
Screw the plug on over the tube just a little bit tighter then finger tight.

What are you doing about a throttle cable? Are you using the VCV on the IP or the one by the brake booster?

Sixto
MB-less

I'd make sure there's a way to extract the lock if it gets stuck in the port such as if the IP sprocket turns and deforms the soft copper.

Sixto
MB-less

If you did something really stupid, like try to start the engine with the timing lock in place, you would be in trouble with either my copper tube or the factory lock.


For a throttle cable, I went out in the woods and found a W124. I pulled the hood latch cable and the end of the throttle cable. The end of the throttle cable has a provision for adjusting the length so you can adjust the "at rest" point of the cable. I attached the hood latch end of the cable to the throttle arm on the IP. I installed the adjustable end of the throttle cable in the fire wall. I attached the cable end to one of the arms that is activated by the foot throttle in the brake booster area. It took me about an hour from harvesting parts to having a working throttle. The only thing I lost is the cruise control.

Nice work,

What was wrong with the original IP that prompted the conversion?

:boat:

The original IP had one of those fancy computers running it ;)

-J

hope to hear that some 8mm elements are in your future :-)

Definitely. My point is the copper tool could get you in trouble when turning the engine by hand to confirm IP timing or when holding the chain to tighten the sprocket bolt.

And dynamic idle control through the ELR actuator. You can turn up base idle to get around that if necessary.

How does the 606.912 governor limit compare with the 603.97?

Sixto
MB-less

the 3.5L govener would be set over 1500 rpm lower (the 3.5 is over and done at 4100 rpm, IIRC the 606 will rev to 5500?).

-J

You should not attempt to turn the IP, or the engine with the IP installed, if you have any kind of lock on the IP. The copper tube will get you in no more trouble then the factory tool. It should only be used to hold the IP timing in place until the IP shaft splines are engaged in the timing gear's splines.

I need to start a separate thread on the 606/ 603 IP swap. I have only driven the car 5 miles since the swap. I will drive it about 80 miles tomorrow and have a better idea of how it runs with that IP. I already know that it can over fuel the N/A engine.

Thread on IP swap: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/354385-ip-swap-603-ip-into-606-engine.html#post3325137

I have been replacing the vacuum pump and timing gear on a W210 OM606.912 and have managed to reassemble the car but the injection timing is off. The car tried to start after the fuel delivery and fumbled and died.
Today I disassembled the engine again, painfully after 3 months, and am at the point of removing the injection pump.
Question is can I visually time the pump correctly? Will I need too bring it in to someone with the digital tools in order to get it right?
I believe that I installed the timing gear a spline or two off, may be more.
Now I cannot get the basket to hold the gear or the locking tool. Will try the wooden dowel method to lock the pump and have an assistant hold the gear in place tomorrow. Do you think that this will work?
Thank you for your time.

Actually the real Timing Locking Pin does have some protection if the Engine was run with it installed.
The sides of the Tool Punger is beveled and the Plunger is spring loaded also the groove in the Tool is rather shallow. Lastly it dose not take much rotation of the Tool and nothing is going into the slot.

I know that you are happy with the results but I am wondering which is more accurate. Yours or the regular timing Pin?

I don't know if I was stupid enough but I was certainly tired enough that I started a CAT Engine with Steel Timing Pin in the Fuel Injection Pump.
On that particular model it shears a tiny 1/8" pin off of the Timing Gear when you do that. However, to replace the Pin you need to pull the whole Front Cover of the Engine off. My Boss was no pleased.

What I have done since that time is to put a Sign on the Steering Wheel to remind Me not to Crank the Engine when I don't want that to happen.

My experience is limited to 3 IP swaps on a 601, 603, and 606. (Actually 4 times, because I had to redo one.) I was able check the timing by seeing that the timing ridge was centered in the viewing port. After the IP was installed, I rotated the engine twice, by hand, back to 15 degrees after TDC before I checked. My experience has been that if I have the crank in the proper position, and the IP lock in it's proper position, that once installed, the IP will be within the adjustment available of correct timing. On the one that I had to redo, the IP lock slipped out of time before shaft was in the gear.


Many times around here I have found that the weak link in any system is the point of human interface. That seems to be where it all goes horribly wrong....

thanks for your reply.
The car is scattered around in many pieces again, (while I try to fend off the curious horse) the chain tensioner is removed and the vacuum pump is as well, the bolt is removed from the timing gear and the pins are pulled from the upper chain guide and from the side of the timing gear. In your opinion, is it possible to loosen the cam gear and hold by hand while a friend pushes the chain to the side in order to remove the timing gear and the replace it in the correct position? Or do I need to remove the injection pump to get the splines aligned? And if I do remove the IP can I hold the gear in place by hand while replacing the pump?

I have not tried to move the timing gear, so I don't know if it is possible or if it will work for you.

I do know that if you remove the IP and reinstall it correctly, that will work.

Replace the pins for the chain guides
Put the tensioner back in (I am not certain if it is nessesary, but you don't want the chain to jump a tooth anywhere)
Turn the engine, by hand, to 15 degrees after TDC
Remove the tensioner
Remove the IP
Set the IP with the timing ridge in the center of the viewing port and lock it in that position
Install the IP shaft into the timing gear
Secure the IP to the block with the 3 bolts, do not tighten them
Put the tensioner back in
Turn the engine, by hand, to 15 degrees after TDC ( I usually turn it over twice )
Check that the timing ridge is in the center of the viewing port, or, is close enough to be set correctly with the available adjustment of the IP

If not, repeat until you get it right.

thanks for the instruction. I have not removed an injection pump before and have always avoided it. was hoping that I might get away with it this time but this will be a good learning experience and should go smoothly.

A mechanic at the dealer said that I would need to remove the pump to do the gear swap job because the new gears teeth would be new and unworn so the timing will be off anyway.

What I do whenever playing with timing related parts is pull the battery cable so there is no chance of a crank other than by hand.

I am OK if someone wants to do that.
In theory you are supposed to disconnect the Battery anytime you work on the Car and are not doing something that you need the Battery for; for safety.

On (some?) gassers disconnecting the Battery clears your Computer/ECM.
Posting the sign is for My own personal situation. I could easily connect the re-connect the Cable prematurely and forget that I still should not Crank and end up cranking when I am not supposed to.

The Sign also works for other things. When I did the front end alinement I used a Screw to lock the Steering Box and center it.

I did not want the Steering Wheel moved at all for fear of scoring up the Postion inside of the Steering Box. The Steering Wheel can be moved reguardless of the Engine cranking or running.

The sprocket teeth would have to be worn severely to cause any measurable difference in IP timing. Chain stretch can cause 1-2° of timing change, but you could probably not detect much (if any) change in engine operation with ±2° difference. Sprocket wear is not common, I wouldn't worry about that.

:chinese2:

Back again hijacking your thread.
RE: 606.912 vacuum pump/timing gear replacement.

I made a copper pipe modified IP lock and finally on the third try, verified by turning the engine by hand twice, that the pump was in time. The notch inside the governor is visible through the viewing port at +15 past TDC and the timing marks are clearly visible.

Put it all back together and no start.

Now I can see that no fuel is being delivered. The fuel line at cylinder 1 is dry as was the fuel filter after cranking many times. Have been charging the battery after 2 or 3 starting attempts.

When learning how to remove the pump, we attempted to remove the cable harness on the pump by removing the retaining clip and pulling on it. The harness started to work out of the housing for an inch then became too hard to pull and we learned that it can not be removed because it is part of the pump.

Questions: is it possible that the wires were unplugged? and if so can they be repaired?
How are the pumps electronics tested, can I use an electric meter?

The car is not showing any codes; should it if the pumps electronics are damaged?

Any suggestions are greatly appreciated.

Thanks for your time.

I hope you didn't pull too hard. Photo below of the internals, more pics at this link.

:(

http://www.w124performance.com/image...962_pump19.jpg

if I pulled too hard, would it cause a no start, no fuel delivery situation?

I would not worry about the wires until you are sure that there is fuel being delivered to the IP.

Fill your fuel filter.

Apply a vacuum to the output of the fuel filter until you have fuel coming out of it and no air.

It will start when you get fuel to the IP.

You can mist WD-40 into the intake as starting fluid. (I am not sure if it is the WD-40, or the propellant gas, that helps it start.)

I have just filled the fuel filter with fuel. It was more than half empty when I checked it this morning after many starting attempts.
Will try vacuum and wd40 now.
thanks

tried the wd40 and it started. Happy for a moment but it seems to be running on the wd40 when it shuts down the fuel line going into the pre-filter leaks down with an air bubble immediately. Its always done this and I have tried many things to stop it happening including a check valve at the steel line at the firewall where the main line comes in.

Forget the check valve. That is just attempting to mask a problem.

You need to find out where air is leaking into your fuel lines.

When I had this type of problem on this model car I got a cheap ($35) low pressure (3 - 5 psi) electric fuel pump and installed it in the fuel line at the firewall hard line. Within a minute after turning the pump on I found the leak. Best $35 I spent.

there is only one stop between the hard line and the pre-filter and that fuel hose was replaced a couple of years ago but that line leaked down then as well, as long as I can remember it has leaked down. Now however it is leaking down fast.

On another note in this tragedy, when I was sucking out the line with the Mighty Vac (many bubbles were coming and I think they all cleared) the Mighty Vac had a major blow out handle came apart and the piston rod started squirting fuel. Nice.

The fuel looks dark, may have the fungus in the rtank after sitting for soo long.

By your user ID I gather that you run alternate fuels. If any of these fuels got into your diesel tank, then you may have a clogged strainer.

Something "just installed" a couple of years ago may no longer be "just installed". Check everything.

The O-ring on the pre-filter gives people fits sometimes.

Put a clean piece of hose on the fuel source line and blow on it. If you are not a smoker, you should be able to blow 5 to 8 psi. That might be enough to find the leak.

Be happy that the IP is installed correctly and the car will run when you can get it some fuel on a regular basis.

thanks. and now for the rain.

thank you for your calm reason.

The fuel warmer is bad and may have been bead for many years. I should have removed it and inspected it years ago.

Have new o-rings for all of the system and filters including the tank strainer screen and new fuel warmer arriving tomorrow.

Cheers

update on the 606 blues

now I have replaced all of the o rings on the fuel lines, new pre filter and main filter and the fuel heat exchanger. when I attached the main fuel line to the heat exchanger fuel began to fill the hose running to the pre-filter untill there was no bubble at all. This is the first time that I can remember no buble in that line, so I had hope. but now after a few hours more tinkering with filling the tank to the absolute top and the filter and vacuuming out the bubbles and cranking no start. The last time that I tried cranking the line leading to the pre filter began to develop a bubble that got larger as it was cranking and now the dreaded bubble is back.

The only o ring that I missed was the one behind the fuel shut off valve. Mercedes said that there is none in the country and it will have to come from Germany. Pelican Parts has many and it will be here in 3 days.

I still do not see any signs of fuel and the line at cylinder 1.

The only sign of leakage is under the IP's governor.

May Day! 2 weeks untill this car needs to leave town for a 2 month job.

You might want to start a new thread for your issue. Copy all the post, about your problem, from this thread to the new one. Title the tread to attract the type of help you need. There must be someone in Austin who can look at your problem with a fresh pair of eyes. I live near I-35, just 1360+ miles north of you.