95 OM 606 Timing Chain Guide Rail
 

Cylinder head removal going along great until the Guide Rail from hell removal part. I am using the "AR01.30-P-5800HA Removing, installing cylinder head" procedure. I get down to Step 14 and I am stuck. It says remove the Guide Rail and references a procedure I do not have. The diagram of the Guide Rail looks like there may be two mounting pins and the installation note mentions "pins" as in two. For the life of me I only see one. How does this pin come out and where is the second one? I tried twisting it with vise grips but it wouldn't budge. Also, what is the head bolt slackening and tightening sequence - which bolt first, which next, .... etc.? Thanks in advance, standing by - Friz

If you were to look up guide rail pins this has been discussed a lot. The top one shown gave me the most problem. I ended up building a slide hammer to remove it.

I had looked before but did what you suggested again. Saw some talk about using a concrete expanding plug and others about screwing in a bolt. I took a small screwdriver and stuck it in the pin. Went in maybe 1/2 inch. Took a closer look and could see threading in the end of the pin. I think the screwing in a bolt is the way to go on my car. P.S. - found Pelican sells a pin extraction tool for $199. Looks like a screw in bolt with a sliding weight. I will have to pass on that one but it gives me ideas. I am still left with the question of where is the 2nd pin? I just can't see it. I do see some sort of retaining spring/clip on the underside of the Guide Rail down from the pin. Any suggestions still appreciated.
Thanks, Friz

Have a look right beneath the upper radiator hose stub.

This is what I did. Use a 10mm bolt, same as the one on the valve cover, and a stack of washers to extract the bolt. Try to screw the bolt into the pin and see how far it can go in. It is about 1/2". Back it off and put the washers in and re-tighten the bolt. The idea is to use the washers and the bolt to extract the pin. Try to extract it 1/8" at a time then undo bolt, add more washer etc. If you had butchered up the thread on the top pin then you can drill a hole at the back and punch the guide pin out. It takes some practice but sure beat buying a $200 tool.

The second pin is recessed. Located just above the vacuum pump. Do NOT butcher up the thread. You cannot punch it out like the top pin. Use some brake cleaner to clean the thread well. Use the washer and bolt extraction method again. Hope it helps.

Good luck.

You can buy a perfectly suitable pin extractor tool on eBay for $30, or if you are a fair wrench you can use a good bolt&nut, a few washers and a socket to extract the pins there are many threads that describe the procedure for other engines. The pin is threaded with M6X1, that's a bolt 6mm in OD with the thread pitch of 1mm.

The second pin will not be sticking out like the top pin, it will be either flush or slightly indented with the surface of the timing cover.

It's a good procedure to clean the pin's internal threads so you can get the maximum amount of puller tip or bolt thread into the pin, once you are attempting to actually pull the pin it is important to keep whatever tool you are using either the designed puller or DIY bolt/washer/socket straight and square with the pin itself,. If it gets off angle it tends to break the bolt or puller tip of, grease the threads of the puller or the bolt&nut your using.

Thanks for all the good info from everyone. I was pumped after reading your responses. Found the 2nd pin where you said it was. I started using the bolt/washer extraction method but made a mess of it. The bolt snapped off in the lower pin and the threaded part up the upper pin sheared off after coming out maybe 1/8 inch. I may be able to outside thread the upper pin as there is over 1/2 inch sticking out of the head. To "easy out" the snapped off bolt in the lower pin is more of a problem. To get a drill in there looks like I will have to remove the coolant and AC radiators (losing the R134). If that is what I need to do, so be it. I thought about removing the master link from the timing chain and then slipping the chain through the guide rail as I lift the head off. I assume their is a master link. Is this doable? Extracting the pins with the head on the bench would be much easier.

No master link. I am not sure you won't break the slide if you lift the head off with it in place.

Thanks for the help. Little confused though. PP catalog sells a master link for my vehicle for $4.75. I wouldn't mind destroying the guide rail if I can get the head off. A replacement is only $11. Okay, a light just came on! After 2 days of fretting about this your comment prompted another look at the timing chain/guide rail. I realize now the pins are above the timing chain loops and not between them as I was thinking. If I break off the guide rail from around the timing chain that should let me lift the head off. Whatdaya think?

For the upper pin you could get a 3/8" coupling and a 1/2 inch cable tie down. Slice the coupling down the middle half way only this ensures when it is placed on the protruding pin it can be clamped tight with the cable tie. Insert a 3/8 in bolt maybe 4 inches long and use a heavy socket that will act as your slide hammer. That has been used by me with great success.

The bolt you insert into the lower pin needs to be grade 10 or better otherwise it will snap.

Good luck!

Okay, outside threaded the top pin and pulled it out with a nut and washers. Drilled and used an 'easy out" on the bottom pin. Ended up pulling the radiator. Actually not that hard. Used an angle drill attachment to drill the broken bolt before the "easy out" Head bolts are next. Is there a slackening sequence? Also what is the tightening sequence?

Go to startekinfo.com, MB workshop resources and you should be able to find a link to the w124 car that will have all the answers regarding torque, etc....

Thanks again Jim. I had already learned about the startekinfo.com site by doing a forum search here. Unfortunately all the documents in the Engine Manual come back "document not found". Maybe they are view-able if you subscribe? Anyhow, this info seems to be well guarded. Even tried Haynes. They don't publish a manual for the 95 E300D.

May I ask why you are removing your head?

It is down isn't it:confused:.

The link should have all you need. The head gasket comes with info on torque, tightening sequence documentation. It is included for the OM603 and should be the same for OM606. Good luck.

Index of /docs/mb/OM60X

Blown head gasket and disappearing coolant - 319K miles.

Yeah, she is down now. Oil leak progressed to the point I was putting turkey roasting pans under her to keep the puddles of oil off the garage floor. Diassembly is now to the point I am looking at the head bolts. Suppose I could just start in the midle a losen going out in stages. Worry about the tightening sequence when the head comes back from the shop.

ah kay - for the life of me I haven't found anything about cylinder heads for any engine. Will continue to look.

The center bolt is the first one to tighten, so it is the LAST one to lossen. You loosen the bolts in reverse order of tightening. So it is from the outside to the inside. Just do it outside in, left right, left right etc until you get to the middle one. The HG comes with the diagram and the torque spec. You torque it to 30nm ( if I remember it correctly ) then 90 degree, wait 10 minutes then 90 degree again. It is all in the Victor Reinz HG package. I have the FSM book for the OM603, not OM606, PM me if you have questions. Post #2 has a sequence diagram.

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/293175-om603-head-bolt-tightening-sequence.html

I can only find torque sequence for the 602 and the 603 on the W124 library CD.

I'll keep searching and maybe someone comes up with one for the 606 in the mean time.

Not allowed access to Startekinfo as I'm not a US resident :(

Sunday evening, the head is on the bench! Thank you gentlemen for all the help. Next question, what is the story with the pre-chambers? I would like to take the head to the shop tomorrow. Should the retaining ring and heat shields be removed or is that something the shop does? I guess they will tell me tomorrow but I would like some feedback before I go there. The injectors and glow plugs are out. The head is stripped except for pre-chamber retaining rings and heat shields. Thanks again. I could not have done this without your help.

Friz,

It's in writing on the first screen snap, bottom line

Picture 1) "engine 606 head bolt tightening sequence is the same as engine 603"

Picture 2) shows the head bolt tightening sequence for engine 603.

Ben

That's great Benedict! Thank you for the research. I have the tightening procedure and now the sequence. Any comment on my pre-chamber question?

Leave 'em alone, let the shop decide. If they are removed, there is a seal under each that must be replaced.

Took your advice. Machine shop said they wanted then out but didn't have the special tools. Took the head over to Star Import Service here in Gainesville and they removed them while I waited. They said they would also install them. Star Import is a Mercedes only shop. Not cheap but very good. Thanks for the advice.