Cylinder head removal going along great until the Guide Rail from hell removal part. I am using the "AR01.30-P-5800HA Removing, installing cylinder head" procedure. I get down to Step 14 and I am stuck. It says remove the Guide Rail and references a procedure I do not have. The diagram of the Guide Rail looks like there may be two mounting pins and the installation note mentions "pins" as in two. For the life of me I only see one. How does this pin come out and where is the second one? I tried twisting it with vise grips but it wouldn't budge. Also, what is the head bolt slackening and tightening sequence - which bolt first, which next, .... etc.? Thanks in advance, standing by - Friz

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If you were to look up guide rail pins this has been discussed a lot. The top one shown gave me the most problem. I ended up building a slide hammer to remove it.

I had looked before but did what you suggested again. Saw some talk about using a concrete expanding plug and others about screwing in a bolt. I took a small screwdriver and stuck it in the pin. Went in maybe 1/2 inch. Took a closer look and could see threading in the end of the pin. I think the screwing in a bolt is the way to go on my car. P.S. - found Pelican sells a pin extraction tool for $199. Looks like a screw in bolt with a sliding weight. I will have to pass on that one but it gives me ideas. I am still left with the question of where is the 2nd pin? I just can't see it. I do see some sort of retaining spring/clip on the underside of the Guide Rail down from the pin. Any suggestions still appreciated.
Thanks, Friz

Have a look right beneath the upper radiator hose stub.

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1995 E300 Diesel

This is what I did. Use a 10mm bolt, same as the one on the valve cover, and a stack of washers to extract the bolt. Try to screw the bolt into the pin and see how far it can go in. It is about 1/2". Back it off and put the washers in and re-tighten the bolt. The idea is to use the washers and the bolt to extract the pin. Try to extract it 1/8" at a time then undo bolt, add more washer etc. If you had butchered up the thread on the top pin then you can drill a hole at the back and punch the guide pin out. It takes some practice but sure beat buying a $200 tool.

The second pin is recessed. Located just above the vacuum pump. Do NOT butcher up the thread. You cannot punch it out like the top pin. Use some brake cleaner to clean the thread well. Use the washer and bolt extraction method again. Hope it helps.

Good luck.

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Not MBZ nor A/C trained professional but a die-hard DIY and green engineer. Use the info at your own peril. Picked up 2 Infractions because of disagreements. NOW reversed.

W124 Keyless remote, PM for details. http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/mercedes-used-parts-sale-wanted/334620-fs-w124-chasis-keyless-remote-%2450-shipped.html

1 X 2006 CDI
1 x 87 300SDL
1 x 87 300D
1 x 87 300TDT wagon
1 x 83 300D
1 x 84 190D ( 5 sp ) - All R134 converted + keyless entry.

You can buy a perfectly suitable pin extractor tool on eBay for $30, or if you are a fair wrench you can use a good bolt&nut, a few washers and a socket to extract the pins there are many threads that describe the procedure for other engines. The pin is threaded with M6X1, that's a bolt 6mm in OD with the thread pitch of 1mm.

The second pin will not be sticking out like the top pin, it will be either flush or slightly indented with the surface of the timing cover.

It's a good procedure to clean the pin's internal threads so you can get the maximum amount of puller tip or bolt thread into the pin, once you are attempting to actually pull the pin it is important to keep whatever tool you are using either the designed puller or DIY bolt/washer/socket straight and square with the pin itself,. If it gets off angle it tends to break the bolt or puller tip of, grease the threads of the puller or the bolt&nut your using.

Thanks for all the good info from everyone. I was pumped after reading your responses. Found the 2nd pin where you said it was. I started using the bolt/washer extraction method but made a mess of it. The bolt snapped off in the lower pin and the threaded part up the upper pin sheared off after coming out maybe 1/8 inch. I may be able to outside thread the upper pin as there is over 1/2 inch sticking out of the head. To "easy out" the snapped off bolt in the lower pin is more of a problem. To get a drill in there looks like I will have to remove the coolant and AC radiators (losing the R134). If that is what I need to do, so be it. I thought about removing the master link from the timing chain and then slipping the chain through the guide rail as I lift the head off. I assume their is a master link. Is this doable? Extracting the pins with the head on the bench would be much easier.

No master link. I am not sure you won't break the slide if you lift the head off with it in place.

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Jim

Thanks for the help. Little confused though. PP catalog sells a master link for my vehicle for $4.75. I wouldn't mind destroying the guide rail if I can get the head off. A replacement is only $11. Okay, a light just came on! After 2 days of fretting about this your comment prompted another look at the timing chain/guide rail. I realize now the pins are above the timing chain loops and not between them as I was thinking. If I break off the guide rail from around the timing chain that should let me lift the head off. Whatdaya think?

For the upper pin you could get a 3/8" coupling and a 1/2 inch cable tie down. Slice the coupling down the middle half way only this ensures when it is placed on the protruding pin it can be clamped tight with the cable tie. Insert a 3/8 in bolt maybe 4 inches long and use a heavy socket that will act as your slide hammer. That has been used by me with great success.

The bolt you insert into the lower pin needs to be grade 10 or better otherwise it will snap.

Good luck!

Okay, outside threaded the top pin and pulled it out with a nut and washers. Drilled and used an 'easy out" on the bottom pin. Ended up pulling the radiator. Actually not that hard. Used an angle drill attachment to drill the broken bolt before the "easy out" Head bolts are next. Is there a slackening sequence? Also what is the tightening sequence?

Go to startekinfo.com, MB workshop resources and you should be able to find a link to the w124 car that will have all the answers regarding torque, etc....

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Jim

Thanks again Jim. I had already learned about the startekinfo.com site by doing a forum search here. Unfortunately all the documents in the Engine Manual come back "document not found". Maybe they are view-able if you subscribe? Anyhow, this info seems to be well guarded. Even tried Haynes. They don't publish a manual for the 95 E300D.

May I ask why you are removing your head?

It is down isn't it.

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Jim