Originally Posted by sokoloff (Post 3368557)

Rich - for my 240D I stuck a "BB" in the vacuum line coming off the EGR about 20 years ago. It's been fine ever since, but I'm not sure how much good it did. What does your kit do that the "BB" doesn't? I'm not trying to cast a negative light on your kit, but I'm just curious what the advantages are and if I should get one.

Thanks.

Originally Posted by ROLLGUY (Post 3368566)

If the EGR gets a piece of carbon in the valve, it will leak exhaust into the intake. Other than that, as long as the EGR is closed, it will do the same thing as the block-off plate. The other advantage is that your car will loose a 1/2 pound of weight, and the stainless steel pipe can be recycled for about 20 cents :D
Some people like the look of the plate over the EGR and pipe.....Rich

Originally Posted by mikeyfev1 (Post 3369025)

These are small issues, but they do contribute to the advantage of the block-off plate (on my 300D):

• The EGR is not in the way. This is barely mentionable, but it is true that with the EGR removed some maintenance operations are simplified, e.g. changing the short coolant hose, working with the timing chain tensioner, etc.
• I'm going to mention this, but you can do this with the BB solution. Removing the EGR inspired me to remove a good amount of vacuum hoses and controls leading to the EGR.

Originally Posted by sloride (Post 3371359)

What is the thickness of the plate. Or do you offer different thicknesses? The reason for my question is while doing the delete I would like to tap the plate 1/4" NPT for adding a nozzle for water/methanol injection at the same time.

Originally Posted by mikeyfev1 (Post 3369025)

These are small issues, but they do contribute to the advantage of the block-off plate (on my 300D):

• The EGR is not in the way. This is barely mentionable, but it is true that with the EGR removed some maintenance operations are simplified, e.g. changing the short coolant hose, working with the timing chain tensioner, etc.
• I'm going to mention this, but you can do this with the BB solution. Removing the EGR inspired me to remove a good amount of vacuum hoses and controls leading to the EGR.

Originally Posted by RoxanneIsMyFAST (Post 3380645)

Im trying to figure out actually what all can I remove. Can you help me out?

Originally Posted by RoxanneIsMyFAST (Post 3380645)

Im trying to figure out actually what all can I remove. Can you help me out?

Originally Posted by ROLLGUY (Post 3368513)

I have found that the easy thing to do on the EDS equipped engines (well at least the '91 300D 2.5T) is to just put vacuum to the wastegate all the time. Unlike the 617's, the WG is normally open, NOT normally closed. With vacuum to the WG all the time, the car has all the power the engine can give, and runs great (kinda like a "greased cheetah chasing a bullet train"). I know some folks will balk at this suggestion, but I don't know what to say, other than it works. Changing the actuator is a big job for some, so this way is much easier. I know that the only over-boost protection you have with this method is in your right foot, but it has been my experience that these engines do not get close to an over-boost condition very often (if ever). Maybe when they were new and all the systems were in perfect working order was that protection needed. Always remember in situations like this: "your mileage may vary"- just sayin'........Rich