Quick front wheel bearing Q:
 

When re-installing the hub (re-using races/bearings) is it good practice to apply any grease to the inside of the race where it contacts the spindle? Or do it "dry?"

I've looked for online service manual links all over but am having trouble finding a good link, a lot of them have expired from past forum posts.

Thank you.

Edit: Also, I'm wanting to just leave the inner bearing in the hub, but realizing obviously that I can't take it out for cleaning and re-packing that way. It won't easily pull out past the seal, and I don't want to mess up the seal, it's in decent condition and I'm about done spending money on things right now. Can I expect to be able to pull out that inner bearing? And when I reinstall, is there a place for it to seat against the inside of the hub, so that when I start tightening down on that end nut the hub will seat the race? Been a long time since I've done this and am forgetting many things...

You did not mention if you have read the DIY here:
PeachPartsWiki: Front Brake Pad & Rotor Replacement

Also a DIY post from forum mod Whunter:
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/290044-w123-w126-front-brake-rotor-replacement-bearing-pad-change-included.html

There is no way you can avoid buying new seals. They are cheap. After I bought mine, I read that they are actually the same as the old RWD Chev Caprice. Not sure if that is true but if it is they can be had for under $5 a shot.

If you absolutely must reuse the seal, you should be able to knock it and the inner bearing out together. Use a large socket mounted backwards on an extension bar.

Right, if you remove the inner bearings, you'll destroy the seals, replace 'em. Don't use SKF, Mexico seals, won't fit. Ask me how I know.

There is a race for both bearings, some folks don't replace the races, inspect 'em tho.

Eewww... Some folks change the bearings without changing the races???

I have successfully reused the seals on thousands of cars... The trick is to knock the seal out with the inner bearing as you pull the rotor off the spindle with the locknut back on the spindle.

No issues at all.

Don't have the race removal, install tool.

Timken bearings don't come with races.

Have a socket, extension bar and a hammer?

Bearings are sold as sets and individually. Regardless of whether they are sold as a set or not, installing new cones in old cups isn't a great idea.

Always appreciate input from those far superior than me.

Learned that trick from my Uncle when I was just a kid.

Bump the inner bearing against the locknut and washer after removing the outer bearing.

Tap, rotate, tap, rotate, tap, rotate, pop.

All done....

Jim

Darn, wish I would have had that advice before I did 'em! I ended up re-using the seals (yes, eewwwwww), and just leaving the bearings in the hubs, cleaning as well as I could and "repacking" with my long fingers.

Wrong way, yes.

Thank you for all of your input.

I find it pretty impossible to pop the grease seal on our cars, its very tight

I did two this weekend...

I will give it a shot soon, I need to repack the fronts on my W210 - the green grease is more like a wax in the dust cover.