So over a year ago, I pulled the IP and the Oil Filter Housing to replace a bunch of leaky oil seals. I put it back together and timed it to 26 - BTDC. The car ran okay after that, though there was a shake at idle I never could get rid of, not even after new motor mounts and shocks, new injectors and a new rack damper bolt.

I figured it was slightly miss timed. So I set the crank to 24 this time, pulled the pump again yesterday and set the tooth marks to speck and then replaced. Drip timed it to 1/sec, at WOT. Replaced fuel filters (both) and bled the lines accordingly. Started car and it ran rough for a second, which is expected, spewing smelly, (unburnt fuel) white smoke out the back. It smoothed out slightly, but now there is a very pronounced miss (in fact often times multiple misses) at idle. Sometimes, it won't even stay running, when cold, and shakes ferociously.

When hot, it doesn't smoke but exhaust still smells awful. Acceleration is the same as before and will do 70 easily. On deceleration in first or second gear, however, (under 15 mph) you can feel the car shaking while in D, and you can hear the engine kind of missing/loping. At idle, the miss/lope is extremely noticeable. Adjustment of rack damper bolt yields no improvement.

This definitely is a fueling issue. My question is, is the IP shot? What about the possibility that delivery valves are sticking or damaged?

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1983 300CDT -- 177K

Was it shaking at Idle before you removed the Fuel Injection Pump and replacing it and retiming it made it worse?
And did the Car sit for a long time before you got it back together?

Adjusting the Valve sometimes fixes a shaking Idle.

If I did this on mine and the Engine was running good before I removed the Fuel Injection Pump and it started after I reaplaced and re-timed it.
I would fist look for stuff that might cause an Air leaking into the Fuel Inlet; including the Old Style Hand Primer if you have one.

If none of the above was wrong I would be re-timing the Fuel Injecion Pump or you if there is no mark already on the Engine that goes acrossed the Fuel Injection Pump Flange so you know where you started at you could experiment with rotating the Fuel Injection Pump tiny bit and tighten it down and go for a drive and when you come back see if it changed the Idle.

If you don't keep the Fuel Pressure even during drip timing the amount of drops/drips is going to change and you cannot count on them.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

It was shaking, but not severely, before retiming it. Hence, the reason for wanting to retime. Valves were just adjusted last month and none were too bad out of speck.

When I went to time it this time, I never reached the point on the swivel where no fuel was coming out of the drip tube. That leads me to believe that the splined notch may not have been aligned right. But the engine was at 24BTDC with the cam ears pointing up. I'm wondering if somehow my timing chain is badly off. Would this be a symptom of such an issue?

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1983 300CDT -- 177K

When you stick the IP back into the Engine the Studs need to be centered in the Kidney Slots on the Flange or you can run out of adjustment during timing.

Your Timing Chain may or may not be worn. But, when you retime the Fuel Injection Pump you are timing it to the Crankshaft Degrees so as far as the Injection Pump Timing goes you have compensated for the Timing Chain Stretch.
Resetting the Fuel Injection Pump Timing does not change the Engine Valve Timing that is also effected by the Timing Chain Stretch.

When I had Hot Idle Shaking it was doing the Valve Adjustment and rebuilding the Injectors with new Nozzles that fixe like 85 percent of the Problem.
The Stock Bosch Injector Nozzles have some tiny passages in them that get plugged with Carbon and those passages are where the Idle Fuel is supposed to pass through.

I posted a whole bunch of pics of the diagrams on that over the years.
If you look in one of the threads that has the question which Injector Nozzles to buy I think you will find some of My pics.
DIY Repair Links
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/forumdisplay.php?f=82
http://www.peachparts.com/Wikka/DoItYourSelf

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

I solved a similar issue by soaking the pipe holders in brake fluid for a week. The pipe holder is the piece that is removed on #1 to do the injection timing. Go ahead and pull each connection with the associated spring and plunger element and soak them. You'll not that the pipe connection has a tiny orifice. There is actually a spring type device inside that helps to avoid secondary combustion from the fuel shock wave traveling back down the injector line after the injector closes, (Or something like that).

At any rate, the orifice is quite small in diameter and any clogging here will affect idle quality.
Mike

Masc,

Did you clean all of the components of the delivery valve assembly (Spring, valve, little thingy under Spring inside hollowed out cylinder thingy (pardon the technical jargon)? I may try soaking all of these parts. I don't need the car anyway for at least a couple of weeks. I just want it running again.
Also, did you label which parts go with what, so as not to mix up the components of the various assemblies?

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1983 300CDT -- 177K

Pipe Holder = Delivery Valve Holder

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

What brand mounts did you use? Lemforder or Phoenix are the only ones that should be used. Did you do the trans mount?

Have you adjusted the fuel pressure relief valve?

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I used Lemforder mounts and also replaced the trans mount and engine shocks. That was last summer. It shook at idle for a while, even after a new IP adjustment bolt, but it didn't "idle rough." In other words, the engine sounded fine, didn't smoke, and there were no misses.

What is the fuel pressure relief valve?

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1983 300CDT -- 177K

So I removed the IP and set the engine to 24 BTDC (ears on cam lobes pointing up). I then set the tooth on the injection pump to match with the mark, replaced gasket, remounted pump, timed it to one drip per second keeping constant pressure on the plunger (pushing the plunger once every two to three seconds), fastened down all the bolts and reattached all of the injector lines, bled the system, started the car and it ran rough with lots of black smoke. I let it warm up, but still tons of black smoke at idle and even more at WOT. It still shakes.

One thing I noticed ... when turning the bolt on the IP shaft (clockwise of course), I encountered resistance in what I would call the first and third quadrants if you were imagining a graph laid over the shaft of the IP looking at it from the front of the engine. To me, this resistance felt like the type of gravitational resistance that would happen if you were holding a bowed rod out in front of you and trying to turn it. Answer me this gentlemen ... is it possible for the shaft inside the IP to be bent, or bowed?

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1983 300CDT -- 177K

Have you pop tested the injectors?

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David


1996 Mercedes S124 E300TD - 129k - rolling restoration project -

1998 Mercedes W210 300TD - 118k (assimilated into above vehicle)

The injectors were rebuilt by Greazzer with new nozzles last year. I don't think they're the problem.

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1983 300CDT -- 177K

This thread should explain it

Fuel pressure relief valve adjustment

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Do you have a ip locking device? It is to be installed in place of the 17mm plug in the side of the drivers side of the injection pump. When the lock is installed it presses against a notch in the cam in the injection pump which is only seen at 15' degrees ATDC. I would set the motor at 15 degrees ATDC and remove the plug and using a mirror look inside the pump and see if you can see the notch on the cam in the pump. Sometimes i haven't had good luck with drip timing, everyone has a different idea of whats correct and whats not correct with drip timing.

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1985 300TD Turbo Euro-wagon
1979 280CE 225,200 miles
1985 300D Turbo 264,000 miles
1976 240D 190,000 miles
1979 300TD 220,000

GONE but not forgotten
1976 300D 195,300 miles
1983 300D Turbo 175,000 miles

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...e485-1-2-1.jpg

Thanks, I may try this tomorrow if I have time. I plan on just moving the pump around anyway to see if I can find a sweet spot somewhere. The wobble is what is concerning me most though, and the resistance I encountered on the pump shaft. Any thoughts there?

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1983 300CDT -- 177K