That level code needs STAR Diagnostics to display and clear.

Only the emissions related codes will display and clear with a generic OBDII reader. MB only included the minimum required by Federal regulations.

Thanks, I feared so.

It appears as though the speed sensor is working as the cruise control now works again during the test drive, that also suggests that the brake switch is also functioning.

After being stranded on the road and having a MB dealer do the work (but couldn't get the sensor) I am hoping that the code read and reset is a nominal cost or free.

Did the dealer install the sensor? If so clearing the code should have been part of their labor charge.

No, they couldn't get one fast and I wasn't interested in delaying our trip for a couple more days. The plastic holder came from Germany.

I installed it myself.

Tomorrow I will see how generous our local dealer is.

Have you tried disconnecting battery for say, 30 min?

I once replaced the ABS pump on my e320, after which the brake system reset itself and trouble lights disappeared. Srs is airbag related, I think, so that must be caused by something else.

The SRS light needs to be reset either by the dealer or a indy with the proper equipment. It is one pain to clear, and can be caused by any number of things. In my case, it was the "passenger side" seat detector that came up as the culprit. To repair that requires that the entire seat be removed, taken apart, and another "passenger sensor" be installed. There are some China sellers on Ebay that advertise a code reader that will cancel the SRS code, but in my case it did absolutely nothing. There was one seller that advertised a "passenger seat occupied emulator", but I never had a chance to try it out. My passenger side spring perch failed, and I ended up selling the car "as is". Good luck!!

same here, seen a number of bearing failures lately (wheel, pulley, etc) and 100% of the recent failures were no-name no-markings, most likely chinese.

i just replaced a brand new no-name no-markings belt pulley where the bearings failed, overheated, and seized solid. the no-name pulley had less than 20k miles on it. i replaced it with my old used genuine mercedes pulley (made by ina) that had more than 80k miles on it, but was still silky smooth and tight.

when it comes to ball or roller bearings, use skf, fag, or ina. nothing else. a single flat-bed ride makes the chinese ones a lot more expensive.

Went to the dealer today where I purchase most of my parts locally and they wanted $119 to reset the codes.

Indie time.

That's about 1 hr at dealer. Indy won't be a lot less. I read of one guy who had indy clear code in Toronto. $85 even although it only took a few minutes :(

I think you can clear code with Carsoft. Hardly worth buying it just for that, but perhaps someone near to you has it? Of course clearing code won't fix the problem.

Good luck with it.