Looking at 97 w 210 606 na - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

treetops · #1 10-07-2014, 11:57 AM

Looking at this later today. It has 127 K. Hoping for pointers to look for with this model. Some things I know of are spring perches, rust on the fender wells rocker panel trunks etc. Heard the fuel lines and o rings are really troublesome as well as o-rings on the IP the transmission too but don't know what to listen for when driving it.

Any help on tips are greatly appreciated

Treetops

Quahog · #2 10-07-2014, 12:39 PM

before you hand any money over, test drive a 98-99 model.

for the turbo.

pimpernell · #3 10-07-2014, 01:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by treetops

Looking at this later today. It has 127 K. Hoping for pointers to look for with this model. Some things I know of are spring perches, rust on the fender wells rocker panel trunks etc. Heard the fuel lines and o rings are really troublesome as well as o-rings on the IP the transmission too but don't know what to listen for when driving it.

Any help on tips are greatly appreciated

Treetops

First and foremost, have the spring perches CAREFULLY inspected. If the car is from the Philly area, and driven in the winter, salt can cause havoc underneath the factory sealant applied to the spring perches. Next, make sure all the glow plugs presently installed and are fully connected. This model engine is notorious for having glow plug break in the head when trying to change them out. Some sellers have broken plugs in the head, and instead of fixing them, they had a dummy plug plug tack welded to the engine block and connected so a code would not be thrown. As far as the delivery valve seals leaking, they are not that big a problem to repair as long as you follow the proper guidelines you can find on this forum or in the shop manual. Good luck with whatever decision you make!!

Chris W. · #4 10-07-2014, 01:49 PM

Apart from the fuel line O rings, which is more of a nuisance thing, I would say the glow plugs are the biggest issue with the 606. I have had my indy do mine (only when one fails), I'm on my 3rd set now and knock wood, they have come out fine each time. Otherwise, the engine is rock solid. I take mine up to 4800 rpm about once a week, whether it needs it or not...

Rgds,
Chris W.
'95 E300D, 429K

treetops · #5 10-07-2014, 01:57 PM

A 98 or 99 would be great, but currently there are none on the market relatively close with under 150k miles. If I like what I see I'll get a PPI, but any additional tips are appreciated.

Quahog · #6 10-07-2014, 02:59 PM

be less concerned with milage on the clock & PPIs.

Do look for meticulous prior care by as few prior owners as possible: documented replacement of all the glowplugs, HVAC items & of course personal inspection the rust-prone areas...

do wait for the right one

we are here to help

GregMN · #7 10-07-2014, 06:39 PM

I agree with the people who said glow plugs can be the biggest issue. If you can work the deal so the GP's are replaced before you buy the car, that would be best. That's is what I did on my last W210.

The o-rings on the fuel system are an inconvenience. You can replace them all in a couple of hours for less then $100 and then not have to touch them again for 100k to 150k.

Replace all of the EGR plumping if it has not been done. By this age it is all brittle, hard, and leaking oil into the back 2 injector wells.

The delivery valve seals require a special socket to get to. Not a terribly difficult job or expensive, even if you have to buy the socket.

Rust is an issue. I purchase my cars in the southwest to postpone the problem for me.

First year electronic 5 speed in the W210. Check it out as best you can.

HVAC blower motor regulator repair is less then $100 if you do the W140 regulator conversion.

Wait for the right car is really the best advice. The right car can last you a long time. One of mine has 330k with no signs of the end of it's service life.

Take it to a MB mechanic familiar with W210 diesels and have it checked over.

If you are willing to travel to get it, you will find it sooner.

Options you might value:
Heated seats
HID head lights
Headlight washers
Rear window motorized sun shade

treetops · #8 10-11-2014, 05:06 PM

Thanks for all the input what to watch out for. I did look at a 98 -$7K-160Kmiles and 99-9K=134Kmiles.

Both had dirty/worn interiors various controls broken off or iffy functions esp the seats/windows. The 9K one, which I expected to be closer to mint, had rust on the rear fender wells with a crappy bondo/spray paint job and rust on the rocker panels. It ran nice and tight. The 7K one had some rust showing but not like the 9K one and ran so-so with an intial lag then a moest turbo kick (actually not significantly better than the 87 124 I have) This one looked better all around, but had brake pulsing, was out of alignment, bad sunroof switch weak HVAC blower and slower to start even when warm.

Not to the point of persuing them hard and asking the pertinent Qs, but really nice cars, bit too pricey IMO tho.

treetops

treetops · #9 10-11-2014, 05:16 PM

Thanks for all the input what to watch out for. I did look at a 98 -$7K-160Kmiles and 99-9K=134Kmiles.

Both had dirty/worn interiors various controls broken off or iffy functions esp the seats/windows. The 9K one, which I expected to be closer to mint, had rust on the rear fender wells with a crappy bondo/spray paint job and rust on the rocker panels. It ran nice and tight. The 7K one had some rust showing but not like the 9K one and ran so-so with an intial lag then a modest turbo kick (actually not significantly better than the 87 124 I have) This one looked better all around, but had brake pulsing, was out of alignment, bad sunroof switch weak HVAC blower and slower to start even when warm.

Not to the point of persuing them hard and asking the pertinent Qs, but really nice cars, bit too pricey IMO tho.

treetops