Just commenting on what Yuke said above, my observation that all three of the well-functioning driveshafts I've removed had loose nuts, and just my feeling that greased splines under the kind of compression found on these shafts are bound to find their sweet spot anyway.

Not arguing, just wondering.

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1981 300TD 310k miles
1970 280sel 172k miles
1966 230 Fintail 162k miles

"Where are we going? And why am I in this hand basket?"

The Instructions for rolling the Car back and fort with the full weight of the Car and wheels on the Ground to center the Drive Shaft before tightening the Collar Nut is in one Factory Service Manuals of I think it was a W116 (I think?); which has the same Drive Shaft set-up.
Anyway I read the instructions on this Forum.

I have not taken the time to search the W123 Paper Manual I have but I know there is more info in the Paper Manual as I have seen stuff there that is missing from the English Language CD Manual Set.
Also it is know that there is mistakes in translation and omissions in the Factory Service Manual CD.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

Carpenterman,

It's not only the Sliding shaft splines and Nut interface you're worried about...

See Attachment:

And as always...

Your Mercedes ,Your Pleasure.

Attached Thumbnails

 

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'84 300SD sold
124.128

I have always rolled the car before tightening the driveshaft nut because that's the accepted practice stated by those who know more than I do. Better to be safe than sorry.

But, while we're on the subject, why cant you just turn the tires while the car is off the ground to rotate the driveshaft before tightening? I don't see how loading the suspension affects the geometry of the driveshaft.

Does the differential move with load on the subframe (assuming good diff mount and subframe bushings)? For sure, it's not going to alter the engine/trans position.

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1981 300TD 310k miles
1970 280sel 172k miles
1966 230 Fintail 162k miles

"Where are we going? And why am I in this hand basket?"

Good question.....would it accomplish the same thing to roll/turn the rear wheels with the car in the air? For us larger folks, getting under the car while it is resting on all fours is a real pain if not impossible. I can't imagine if you took it to a dealer back in the day that they would be pushing a car back and forth in the shop!!

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2012 Mercedes ML350 Bluetec 102K (hers)
2005 Corvette 55K (fun car)
2002 VW Jetta TDI 238K (mine)
1998 Volvo S70 T5 Turbo 211K (kids)
1994 Ford F150 4WD 246K (firewood hauler)
1983 Mercedes 300D 384K (diesel commuter)

Dunno if this will help you in planning your job, but the local dealership sent this schematic to me when called for parts prices:

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1981 240 D in the Toronto Area
Ivory with one black fender

I torqued it to 20 or 22 lb/ft - crows foot on torque wrench - after that exercise the shaft was still able to slip with slight force - thats why the manual tells you to apply some cv joint type grease on it.

To simulate car load I put a jack under the diff and took some weight off - the total play was about less than an inch - quickly do the tightening with torque wrench and leave it.

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2012 BMW X5 (Beef + Granite suspension model)

1995 E300D - The original humming machine (consumed by Flood 2017)
2000 E320 - The evolution (consumed by flood 2017)