Delivery valve internal leak as a cause of nailing? Yes? No? Maybe??? - Page 15 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

phlfly · #**211** 12-12-2017, 08:04 PM

I took intake and all glow plugs today . Work around few hours. One glow plug had heating element separated from the body. Surprisingly they are all came off. Its a relieve. The reamer can't even go to the hole freely, that how much carbon build in there.
Install new glow plugs.
You were right without ball hex there is nothing to do there. Some a glow plug's electrical wire nut hadn't much room to remove.
Took intake for the cleaning too, it has a lot gunk build on walls.
Tomorrow will attack delivery valves.

Diseasel300 · #**212** 12-12-2017, 08:25 PM

Interesting. When I reamed the glow plug holes on mine, I barely got any carbon at all. Felt like I wasted my money on a reamer. The 603's are supposed to be a low-soot engine by design, it may be worthwhile to see how much coal you're rolling when you accelerate. If you still have the 3.5L injection pump, it needs to be turned down for the 3.0L engine.

phlfly · #**213** 12-12-2017, 08:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Diseasel300

Interesting. When I reamed the glow plug holes on mine, I barely got any carbon at all. Fel t like I wasted my money on a reamer. The 603's are supposed to be a low-soot engine by design, it may be worthwhile to see how much coal you're rolling when you accelerate. If you still have the 3.5L injection pump, it needs to be turned down for the 3.0L engine.

That may be true. I'm always surprised any car by my side how fast this thing will go from dead stop. I wonder if putting too much fuel.
I need turn my ALDA down may be a notch. Do you remember clockwise or counterclockwise to slow down this thing?\

Fuel pump p/n

Diseasel300 · #**214** 12-12-2017, 09:00 PM

That looks like the 3.0L pump. The 3.5L has a different part number. If everything is working properly, you should have just barely the faintest amount of smoke with your foot welded to the floor from a dead stop. If there's a cloud behind you, there's something wrong. People are always surprised how quickly my SDL gets around. It may lack in ultimate performance, but it certainly isn't "slow".

Maxbumpo · #**215** 12-13-2017, 08:41 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by phlfly

I took intake and all glow plugs today . Work around few hours. One glow plug had heating element separated from the body. Surprisingly they are all came off. Its a relieve. The reamer can't even go to the hole freely, that how much carbon build in there.

Likely this is all left over from the bad injectors, and you simply need to drive the engine hard to burn it out, may take thousands of miles. Your engine will produce more smoke when there is any slightest problem with injection / combustion, and carbon build-up in the pre-chambers will change the combustion process and produce more smoke. The best way (easiest / cheapest / least risk) to eliminate the carbon is repeated Italian tune-ups and hard driving, and NEVER allow the car to sit and idle when cold. When cold, start it up and drive off gently, and keep the engine speed down until your oil pressure at idle drops to what is "normal" for your engine. Once normal hot idle oil pressure is achieved, your engine is fully warmed up and you can drive it as hard as you like.

Maxbumpo · #**216** 12-13-2017, 08:52 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by phlfly

Btw what is size of the hex bolts for the intake? Strange tried all mine hex and some too big, some little loose.

6mm. Removing the intake manifold requires quality tools. I have a nice set of 1/4" driver with extensions and universal joint, and a 6mm socket bit for the end, and after multiple sessions of removing and installing manifolds, it is not too bad. The worst bolts are those around #6 with the oil filter canister and the fire wall blocking access. I use a telescoping magnet to keep hold of the tool and the bolt during removal and assembly.

Do plan on replacing all the rubber pads and plastic clamps for the steel fuel injection lines. I've learned to simply keep a bunch on hand at all times, as well as a spare intake manifold gasket and spare cross-over pipe gaskets.

Another hard spot during intake removal is the throttle linkage, which attaches to the underside of the intake manifold by #5 cylinder. There's a plastic pivot mount that gets brittle with age, think about ordering a spare "just in case" or be very gentle with it during removal and assembly.

Another nice thing to do is replace all the throttle linkage plastic ball joints with metal, as the plastic parts are also subject to, you guessed it, getting brittle with age and breaking at the worst time.

phlfly · #**217** 12-13-2017, 06:00 PM

Any idea how to bleed air from fuel lines ? Thanks

Diseasel300 · #**218** 12-13-2017, 06:49 PM

Bleeding on the 603 is automatic. If the fuel lines up to the IP are already full and you didn't drain the IP when doing the DV's, don't worry about bleeding. Preglow for ~15 seconds and crank. The engine will probably start firing in 5-10 seconds of cranking.

phlfly · #**219** 12-13-2017, 09:07 PM

Well, I have started an engine. Its working much better, but it shakes. So I did like a fuel purge and engine started working smooth. Than connected all back it worked for few minute than again shakes. What was surprising to me, when I disconnected feed line (goes to small filter) it did not have any fuel. I remember last time I did purge, diesel would be leaking none stop so I have but a bolt inside a rubber hose. I drove on car around 20 miles and still shakes but little less. I will try to purge tomorrow again.
Another observations during replacing DV valves.
1. that old DV' were much looser inside round part (inside the hole). A new one have feeling even with lots oil, like there fins would touch/scrub internal cylinder of the round part.
2. Another thing I noticed second from the front DV's internal part (I'm not what is it , looks like another cylinder ) was raised higher than one at front one. I don't remember how other ones were looked like. I started at rear to the front. I thought it was odd so I removed front one and that same cylinder was lower right against another internal part. And I was adding tranny oil there it would drain, so I can't fill it with oil. Just odd I guess it's on Fire position, may be ?!

Diseasel300 · #**220** 12-13-2017, 09:23 PM

The fact it smoothed out when running on diesel purge tells you right away that the problem is in the injectors or compression issues (seems like that was suggested before you changed the DV's).

phlfly · #**221** 12-13-2017, 09:50 PM

It could be after 200,000 miles, but I can see air bubbles inside the small filter. Soon as I connected purge system filter will not have as many bibles. It seems to me fuel delivery to tank and back making difference.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Diseasel300

The fact it smoothed out when running on diesel purge tells you right away that the problem is in the injectors or compression issues (seems like that was suggested before you changed the DV's).

Diseasel300 · #**222** 12-13-2017, 09:59 PM

Run straight diesel from your purge setup and see if it smoothes out like it does on the purge. If it does, you know it's an air problem (time for new rubber fuel lines and clamps), if it doesn't, you know it's injector issues or compression problems.

phlfly · #**223** 12-14-2017, 01:57 PM

did you ever replace fuel tank screen ?May be someone will know how to?

btw, the engine started in the morning crappy, than smooth out and now would not shake anymore, all cylinders are working now. I need to see it's either prime pump is no good anymore and replace fuel tank screen. I heard it can collect bunch crap.

Diseasel300 · #**224** 12-14-2017, 02:59 PM

Crap on the tank screen won't cause the fuel system to bleed down overnight. That is due to air ingress.

As suggested above, run off straight diesel from your purge tank. If the problems go away you have a fuel supply problem. If they don't, you have mechanical issues or injector problems.

phlfly · #**225** 01-02-2018, 12:28 PM

Little update. I did replaced DV and one (brand new) injector . The old one was doing nailing so I got it for 53 bucks from FCP. There is video below after two weeks. It's a real improvement. Car is at hot operational temp. But still smoking a little. I think its ALDA valve turn too rich. I have to play with this. Anyone has a good link how to adjust this ALDA.

https://youtu.be/a0bZEWmHhyk