removing injector pump OM617
 

I had a injector pump replaced and the timing is too retarded, it is adjusted as far as it can be, so I need to remove it and retime it. when they installed it, they had to have gotten it off by one tooth.

1 My question is what holds the timing gear in place when you remove the pump?

2 I read that the motor needs to be 24 degrees BTDC on the compression stroke, and then there are timing marks on the pump to lined up before reinstalling it.
I now have a drip tube to do the final setting.
Thanks Russ

The Drive end of the Fuel Injection Pump has what I don't know if you could call a gear but there is a short cylinder that has a lot of fine splines on it. On the Cylinder is a spot were 2 splines are gone and that lines up with a Mark on the bearing Cap on the front of the Fuel Injection Pump.

That drive end slides into a floating Collar. That means that the Timing/Timer has nothing to get messed up when you remove the Fuel Injection Pump.

If the Stuck the Pump in with the Splined Cylider is lined up properly when it was stuck in when they stuck the Fuel Injection Pump back in they simply did not center the Kidney Slots on the Fuel Injection Pump on the 3 Studs that are on the Block. If they are not centerd.

The other post being said some of the Models older then My 1984, I can't remember what dates have The Mark on the Fuel Injection Pump Bearing Caps marked wrong and the timing proceedure is different.

You need to say what year and model you have and if you think it has the original fuel injection pump.

Notice the correctly marked Fuel Injection Pump has the mark on the Bering Cap almost inline with one of the Screws. The incorrecly marked one has the line on the Bearing Cap away from the Screw.

For more info:Repair Links
Fast navigation http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diy-links-parts-category/146034-fast-navigation-do-yourself-links.html

Sorry, its a 1981 300Gd with a euro M style injection pump.
Its right now fully adjusted in the advance position, It runs rough and more smoke than it should when you start it and accelerating. Its drinking fuel and running hotter than it should with very hot EGTs.

pump with third bosch model number 251


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you drip timed it? one drop per one sec? or close to it...

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They supposed to have when they installed it, but its still off.
I'm going to try to do it this weekend, so Im trying to find enough info so I don't screw up something.

Thanks.

Do you know if his Fuel Injection Pump has the 17mm Plug on the side where you can insert the Timing Locking Pin?

Do you know if your Pump about level with the Lift Pump but to the rear on the Governor has the 17mm Plug that allows you to use the Timing Locking Pin?

I shipped several to Sweden for upgrade and all had them....

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maybe you dont have to remove pump at all...first try to drip it properly
if not successful then you can remove and index pump again...

diy here


edit:
in diy it is not specified for non-turbo 617 but you can go 24 BTDC


cheers

If you do remove the pump you'll soon realize how difficult it is to remove the lower nut on the three stud injector mounting flange.

I've had great luck using a 13mm socket on a series of 1/4" wobble extensions threaded between the injection pump and the engine block.

This procedure may or may not work on your particular setup but it might be worth a shot.

Why not take it back to wherever swapped out the IP and have them do the job properly?

true...some guys delete all together that one after swap...I did not so
I regret now...also I find it near impossible to take pump back with oil filter in place...aaaaand I had to use new oil filter housing gasket...but
with M pump things are much easier as that one is quite smaller.....

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Insure you are doing the drip test correctly, since it is easy to screw up and mis-interpret the data. You are looking for the cut-off point where the IP port first closes since that marks "start of pressurizing". Before that point, you can pump the hand pump and fuel will flow/squirt out the delivery valve port (w/ guts removed). When the port closes, you won't get any flow. It is a very sharp transistion. I don't even bother with the manual's "special drip tube" and such. It goes from squirting to nothing in ~1 crank degree (which you can barely set w/ a wrench anyway). If you want to count drops, do that too. If you have a 1984-85 engine, with rack sensor on the IP, you will find getting at one of the 3 nuts very challenging.

I set my 2 300D's to 27 deg, instead of the manual's 24 deg, since many say that can give better mileage and performance, at the expense of louder idle. I didn't notice any difference in idle noise. Seems my mileage has improved, but I rarely take long trips for a good apples-apples comparison.