|
1979 300SD
Ok friends, I'm very very close to purchasing a local 1979 300SD. No rust, good body. Good interior. All happy and working. Great docs.
Minor details in question: Cruise control doesn't work... speed decreases when you let go of the switch. If you hold it, speed stays. Easy to find/replace the part? Tachometer doesn't work... easy find/replace? Sunroof works, but is quite slow to close. Is that normal? A few brake hoses that need replacing and driveshaft cover has a small crack. No shaking though. Rear window doesn't work. Panel was off, so owner was in progress. What's the worst case on a window motor/switch? Will post pics when I get. :-))) |
Look for rust, carefully. They always rust...feel around the floors for soft spots as the undercoating might not be damaged but no metal on the other side. Look around the frame areas, under the back window, rockers, jack points.
Power windows are never a big deal, but the parts are expensive-usually a striped tooth on the lifter (scissor type set up). Check for power first, the switch has to be hooked up in the door. Cruise almost never works, again parts are expensive. It is a fairly simple system with lots of online diagrams/how to's. Run through all the steps before assuming it is one part, test everything! Tach again almost never works on these old beasts, not so expensive and very simple just a pick up, amplifier and gage. In my experience used parts from either the cruise control or tach seldom worked, it was a weak spot on these cars so deal with rebuilt or new stuff to save grief. Sunroof is likely dried up, some lube should help. The cables run all the way into the trunk, you need someone that understands the system before you tackle it, pull the cables, clean, and possible lube not sure what to use do a bit of research. Grease the slides and contact points in the roof where parts move. This can be a big job (a few hours) and def not everyones cup of tea. Enjoy the car, ours has been in the family since 1986, love it. Things to improve, tires/size the 14" is overwhelmed! Headlights, either euro or conversion small round lights. Grab any spare parts you can find, they are getting very rare to find. Consider a manual climate control (European) when the auto dies, it is full of expensive parts. |
1979 300SD
Sounds like a good find. I have owned a 1980 300SD for 8 years and it has been very enjoyable.
CC may be an easy fix or not. If not, replace the unit with a Rostra electronic or similar. Retain you current CC control switch. Don't have a sunroof so can't respond on that. Brake lines are not expensive and straight forward to replace. Driveshaft cover should not pose a problem. Had mine off once and it's thin steel if I remember correctly. Watch the HVAC unit under hood. It can fail and leak. I replaced mine with an Unwired unit and never have had anymore problems. |
I've put about $2000 into mine just in parts in the last 6 months since buying and my car only had 80K miles on it. I've put about 100 hours of labour into it so far. Don't buy this car unless you like dirt and rust in your eyes and own a lot of tools! :)
|
Quote:
Did the owner repair things before they broke? Or did he just repair the things that would keep it from being driveable? Was it being driven daily or stored and not used? That's the big question. If it's just somebody who did the bare minimum then I'd avoid it because everything on the car is likely to be worn out and dangerous. My car was stored for 8 years. But the car was in good condition mechanically and the body and interior are great. But so much stuff needed to be fixed. So much stuff. The little problems are endless. Oh I guess I'm up to 122 hours of my time into it. I also include the time I have to spend researching things and ordering parts. Mercedes repairs completed: 72500 miles Oil & Filter change 15w-40 Rotella Replaced front right brake caliper 2h Replaced vacuum shutoff valve at injection pump 2h Performed brake fluid flush 1h Replaced left headlight & adjusted headlight aim 2h Clean and greased sunroof track 1h Adjusted windshield washer squirters 1h Greased front seat tracks 74600 miles Cleaned previous oil pressure gauge leak oil from carpets 2h Cleaned oil from under dash 1h Replaced instrument panel lightbulbs Replaced windshield wipers Removed excess transmission fluid 1h Removed brittle/disintegrating horse hair cushioning from rear bench 2h 76200 miles Replace dash speakers with Alpine SPS460A speakers 2h Waxed roof (heavy oxidation) 3h Waxed hood and fenders 3h 76700 miles Adjusted valve lash 7h Installed all new air filter housing rubber bolt mounts 2h Disconnected EGR valve vacuum circuit due to leaky 3/2 vacuum switches 1h Inspected vacuum control switch for proper vacuum at transmission through throttle range 1h Installed new valve cover gasket Inspected timing chain stretch 1h Install new alternator & power steering belts 1h Install new main & fuel filters and seals and o-ring 1h Replaced filter to injection pump hard fuel line 1h Replaced all glow plugs and reamed carbon from chambers 2h Cut and installed new fuel injector return lines 1h Install new shift linkage bushings 2h Replaced fuel cap Replaced radiator cap Replaced oil fill cap seal Installed new Firestone Winterforce tires Cleaned all rear light bulb sockets and replaced all bulbs 2h Inspected and adjusted right rear window. Regulator misaligned. Disable window switch temporarily at door panel. 2h Replace trim moulding clips right rear door 1h Replaced 3/2 valve levers 1h Replaced radiator auxillary fan temp switch 1h 77800 miles Nov 15, 2014 Replaced fuel filler neck grommet. 1h Replaced foam pad in rear seat. 3h 78500 miles December 18, 2014 Oil and Filter change. Kendal 15w-40 semi synthetic. Added power steering reservoir cap gasket. New spare tire well drain grommet. 2h 79000 miles December 21, 2014 Checked rear differential fluid level New muffler hanger donuts Installed manual heat control valve New air filter New thermostat Waxed rear quarter and trunk lid New fuel hose at engine (line to pre-filter to lift pump) New primer pump 14h 79300 miles December 31, 2014 Oil change 5w-40 Rotella T6 synth. Transmission oil and filter changed. Castrol Dexron III ATF used. Throttle linkages adjusted per MB specification and lubricated. Fixed slight oil leak at oil pressure gauge. 9h 79500 miles January 13, 2015 New Monark Injector nozzles 4h Install new gas pedal bushing 1h Add plastic guard to oil pressure line at firewall opening Lubricate seat slides & trunk hinges 79800 miles January 30, 2015 Replaced front left brake caliper Replaced brake pads on both sides Due to brake fluid leak 5h Replaced all capacitors in turn signal relay 3h Replaced lower intake housing seal at turbo. Sealed valve cover nuts with gasket maker and copper washers. 1h 80,000 miles Feb 9, 2015 Remove steering lock assembly 10h Remove bad ignition lock cylinder 4h Install new ignition lock cylinder and old steering lock assembly 10h Installed new oil pressure gauge line Lubed steering wheel bearing Lubed horn slide contacts Lubed heat control cable Installed plastic shroud around heat control cable Glued headlight bezel cracks 2h 81,000 miles February 28, 2015 Replaced ALDA line from intake manifold to switchover valve. 2h Replaced rubber PCV hoses from air cleaner to valve cover. 1h |
Quote:
|
Cruise control depends on the set up, do you have the servo unit?
Tach is usually the amp, getting pricey, a member (James dean, I think) has solid state units for sale. A slow sunroof is indicative of old grease, clean and replace. By all means, replace any suspect brake lines. The window may be a number of things, does it get power? I'm in Hopewell, let me know if I can help. |
The owner has been driving the car regularly. He's a CTO (seems meticulous) of a large company and has spared very little expense in keeping the car up. He had a new 617 motor from Germany installed in 2003 and replaced the transmission at the same time... have a stack of receipts organized by date that is 3 inches high. The motor/tranny was done by a Mercedes dealer in Dallas and cost $17K. Car has 280K on it and has been driven. Newer paint looks great. Interior has been redone and looks near new. See no rust at all underneath. Lots of details, including original bill of sale and aid kit and tools and manuals, extra parts, panels, visors, etc... He's chosen to invest in this car over many years vs buying a new one, and for some reason is now letting it go with these few issues... that if I had the shop do would all cost about $2K to have the car totally and completely sorted with everything working and tight. (albeit the sunroof slow... that sounds like a real pain to take apart and grease up) Is a gorgeous fully functional 79 SD with a new-ish engine worth $8K? Maybe to the right buyer, and I guess I'm taking the plunge. Am I nuts? I could buy a really nice 300D for 1/2 that, but nowhere near as sweet (I think) as the W116 SD. Maybe I need to get both and have the 300D as the daily driver. My girlfriend is going to kill me.
|
Ok for that price you could buy a 2006 e320 CDI.
Remember it doesn't matter what repairs were done 10 years ago. He sounds like a fool. Why buy a new motor and trans for 17K when you could just get a used one. What matters is what the car is worth right now. And right now it may only be worth $4000. |
I'd try to haggle on the price but I don't think it sounds unfair. You have a LOT less to worry about with a replaced engine and transmission, especially if they guy takes good care of the car. IF he has complete maintenance records, that's even better. These old cars can get expensive quick but it doesn't sound too bad for you. I would still budget around $2000 for repairs in the first 18 months or so of ownership.
Look at the price evaluations here: Price Guide Report Notice this is Hagerty, this is market value and what they would value the car at. This is not your Craigslist value, Craigslist value is always going to be much less than market value but you are not likely going to find a car like this on Craigslist. That being said, I agree with rob300SD. You can get a nice modern Mercedes diesel or gasser for the same money. They may not have that classic look or be simple to service but they are much much much more modern. Better seats, much better brakes, much better safety, MUCH better climate control, better availability of parts, and 10 years old vs 36 years old. I'm not saying the cost of ownership would be less but it's just a much more modern, comfortable car. |
If I had 8K Id be buying a 2006 4cylinder Honda Accord. Similar sized comfortable car that will have WAY less issues. Also parts way cheaper and easier to repair. Yeah you would need a $500 code reader but that's a small investment. Car would also be cheaper to repair if you do have to take it in for dealer repairs.
I bought my car for $2500 and it only had 80K on it. I bought it because it was a cheap safe car that is relatively easy to maintain. However these cars are not cheap. Parts are twice to 5 times the cost of the price of cheaper cars. Parts are sometimes really hard to find too. If I had more money I would sell it and get a newer car less than 10 years old. Maintaining these older cars is a part time job. I've owned 13 cars over the last 23 years and this mercedes has been the biggest headache I've ever owned. If I was single with no kids I would just sell it and take the bus or cabs to get around. It just sucks up so much of my time! |
Also I would never pay more than the insurance company would pay out if the car gets wrecked. So you might want to talk to your insurance company to see what they value the car at.
|
How much soul do Japanese cars have?
|
None, but it depends on how much money and time one has to waste. If you don't mind spending 5 to 10 hours a week hunched over your engine by all means the Mercedes is great! It's a nice driving car and people really like it wherever I go.
I also don't like inhaling diesel fumes. I've had the injectors rebuilt which reduced the particulate by a boat load, but I still don't like breathing all the toxic exhaust smoke all the time. Diesel exhaust produced by today's diesel fuel and supplements is full of nanoparticles and nobody even knows what the health implications of those are. I don't plan to keep my car any longer than I have to. I really hate having my 3 year old breathing in these fumes as well. It's a tradeoff, I could have bought an old late 90's Honda Civic or something, but those cars are death traps. |
It seems for 8grand the car should be completely sorted with only regular maintance left to do. In my quest for a wagon I've seen pricing all over the place and based on your description I'd put it at about 6500. I agree with robsd you could get a lot of nice cars for this kind of money but I don't think that's what your after. I gotta disagree about 5-10 hours a week working on it and inhaling diesel. I've done a bit in the past but usually have an indie do the jobs too big for me or when I don't have time. I've never felt like the smell of diesel smell has been a problem. I've been drivng my 79 300sd for 8 years as a daily driver all over Los Angeles and have never missed a more modern car. In fact my experience with this car is what made me confident about getting a 300td as a daily driver. I also like driving classic cars (79 is my newest in 23years) and 22-28mpg is probably as good as it gets for a 30+ year old car.
|
How can you smell anything over the smog in LA? :D
It doesn't matter how tuned these cars are. The exhaust is nasty. That's why the new ones are required to have particulate traps. Yeah if you can afford to pay somebody else to repair the car then I'm sure it would be great. Paying a qualified mechanic $120 an hour (Going rate here for an indie Mercedes mechanic) for the 100 hours of work I've had to do so far wasn't in my budget. The good thing about the old mercedes is if you have an engine or trans die you can get a used one for under $1000. Can't say that about a 2006 Accord. And Honda's don't have the most reliable transmissions from my experience. I even blew a 2nd gear synchro out on a 2008 Civic Si with 20K on it. Honda fixed it but it was a problem they had for nearly 6 years on their manual transmissions. The only other thing I worry about is bouncing my head off the steering wheel or side pillar in an accident. My wife has to sit pretty close to the steering wheel in this car. I drive comfortably with the seat all the way back. It's kind of designed for old short people I think. My knee can't even fit under the steering wheel when the seat is all the way back and I'm only 5'10". And with the seat all the way back it is kinda hard to reach the radio or glove box. Otherwise it does drive like a newer car. It will never handle like my Civic Si, but I'm sure it handles and drives as good as a basic Accord. Fuel economy is NOT why I bought this car. It gets about 8L/100km on the highway, but in town it's more like 12 or 13. It's aheavy car at 4000 pounds. The cost of repairs far outweighs any savings in fuel, that plus (at least here) diesel is 20% more than gas. |
Anyhow, that's all I'll say on the subject. Just my own experience with the car for the last 6 months.
|
If you spend 5-10 hours a week working on it, there is something wrong, or it's new to you and you'll catch up.
I agree, no one wants to spend that kinda time on a car routinely. Some folks are more susceptible to fumes than others, priorities. |
Well I quite smoking 10 years ago for a reason. Diesel exhaust is as bad for you as smoking. If you aim the car properly when you park usually you can avoid the exhaust coming up at you. But when you're driving east and the wind is coming from behind and you're stuck in bumper to bumper 2 hour traffic jam and it's +30C out and your AC doesn't work, you just have to huff fumes.
The car is so old, so many hardened old rubber parts. Most of the stuff I've had to fix was because of something rubber failing. I also have to make sure to fix things that could leave my wife and child stranded on a freeway. Or have the car lose power and end up stuck in the middle of a 14 lane freeway full of tractor trailers going 120kph. There was also the issue with winter coming and trying to get the car as prepared as possible for -20C temperatures. Most people drive cars and never fix anything unless they have to. So, usually they end up selling the car when there's so much stuff going wrong that they can't be bothered to keep up with it. Then the lucky buyer gets to fix all that stuff. We also drive about 1600 miles a month with one 100 mile trip every week. So when you use it frequenty, more stuff goes wrong in a shorter period of time. |
If the panel is off in the back look at the metal on the inside of the door with the window up. Look for any rust on the door skin. How old is the paint? If they painted over any rust without removing it, then it will just come through within 2 or 3 years. My car had zero rust underneath the car, but the doors are getting rust bubbles in them which starts from the inside. The inside of my doors have big rust patches. The door seal rubber is hard and cracked and not sealing, which probably caused the rust to start on the doors.
|
Considering there is work to be done, brake lines, tach, clock maybe.
Is the passenger front door arm rest and left rear door panel/parts included? |
Is this car being sold by this service centre in Oregon? Who took all these videos?
Did you talk to this CTO you said owned it? I would never buy anything from a dealer or shop. They all lie through their teeth. |
Quote:
Rob - the car is what it is. The shop is selling for the owner, who I haven't spoken to but will. I'm heading out to pick up in a few weeks. |
Been actively looking at W116SD's for 6 months. Seen some that sell for around $3,500 or so that are decent but with issues. He nicest I've seen is sitting on the market for $15K in SoCal. There are well-sorted ones that sit on the market at $8K. From all I've seen, $6K seems like a very reasonable price given the reconditioning, motor, body, upkeep, etc. only a few things currently to deal with and a beautiful color to boot.
I could buy a $4K car and put another $4K in immediately to get it close to where this one is. Paint alone would be $2,500+. Assume I'm not buying a Honda or newer car. I want this model and this age and this look... W116 SD or maybe a sweet W123 300D. Like the style and size of the SD though. |
I see rust in the front drivers side door jam near the carpet in the photos on their website. Did you pull the carpets out and examine the floor? Take a scratch awl and push it into the floor in the corners. If its got rust it will go through the floor. You cant see the sheet metal because of all the insulation and wax coating under the car.
Why was the car at the shop? Look for signs of a new head gasket. Usually the cars overheat and blow a head gasket and an owner cant afford to repair it so the shop seizes the car. Then does a subpar repair job and tries to sell it like it's perfect. How new is that paint? Does the frame look like new in the engine compartment? Any signs of repair in the trunk area? I would have it inspected by a third party mechanic that you choose. Also be sure to get a full accident history on the car but that might not show repairs that were not claimed. I would only buy a car from a private individual. These shops are only out to make a few thousand profit off each car they sell. That means they got it cheap for some reason they will never tell you. |
A shop can paint a car for $200. Even Maaco does paint jobs for $500 here in Canada. So don't be swayed by the paint. A real paint job with clear coat costs about $5000 here. I find it weird that they havent repaired the arm rests or put the door panel back on. The back of the panel has broken clips that are part of the door. An idiot couldnt figure out that the panel slides up to come off so they tried prying it off like on an american car and busted the door panel. It cant be fixed so it needs a replacement panel.
|
Only found one BBB complaint
Complaint Car was supposedly sold in good running order, within 90 miles the 5th sensor for the turbos failed. Then w/in 2 mos the alternator failed due to the car having the wrong battery. Then I discovered transmission issues that were caused from the car being sold to me with 3 same tires and one completely different tire on an all wheel drive. I have spent an additional $2,700 to bring the car into the"good running condition" the dealer guarantees but didn't adhere to this promise!! |
A bad review on Yelp as well about a customer feeling ripped off and repairs not being done properly. Then the owner insulting them. Sounds typical.
|
Does the HVAC system work?
These can be finicky and pricey to correct. I doubt anything catastrophic happened, just wanting to freshen up, inspected by a shop for a sale. What year engine/trans? |
Not sure what you're all about, Rob. Thanks, I guess.
|
This is the system the previous owner installed apparently.
https://www.carpartsdiscount.com/blend-doors-heater-control-servo-upgrade-kit.html?3593=53370 |
Quote:
It's only shortcoming is that it eliminates the air recirculating function wich definitely is nice on hot summer days with the AC on. Easily modified to keep this function. |
I'd say for the most part, parts for these cars are very reasonable. Only big problem areas are HVAC and window regulators, which can be fixed but can cost a good amount of cash. Cosmetic parts can be expensive but that's really not an issue with this car.
Looking at the car, it looks nice. The exterior is in excellent shape. It may have been repainted but the chrome and more importantly the plastics of the lights are good too. If it was repainted, it was done well as evidenced by the door jams. Interior is not as great but it's not bad. It will clean up nicely and a few blemishes can be either left or you can replace the parts if you want to, such as the cracked wood. You could send that in somewhere to have it restored or buy a restored or good set off of ebay, will cost around $400. I personally would put the speaker covers back on if you can, it looks sorta bad to have those aftermarket speakers uncovered in the front I do have the same concerns on rust and repairs as rob300SD. You should have a closer look, especially in the driver's door jam and the rear passenger side wheel well. This car would qualify as condition 3 or 4 because of its miles but it's close to being a 3 just because the cosmetic shape very good. I'd say $5000-$5500 would be a good price but you should have them put the interior of the car back together, as well as get an estimate on the repair of the window regulator. If it is less than $150 or so, they should do that before selling the car to you. You can do the brakes and drive shaft work yourself if you have the tools needed. You can also regrease the sunroof yourself but you need to be careful to not get it on the headliner. That headliner could use some cleaning as well. There are no pictures of the engine bay but also look in there as well. If it is not extremely clean besides the stated valve cover gasket leak, I'd knock the price down further. As for diesel smoke, these do not smoke at all if they are properly tuned and the engine internals are good. How do I know that? My brother's 300SD with 150K on it does not smoke any, even on start up. Also, I would not buy a 2006 Accord with $8k. I've driven my friend's 06 Accord and was not impressed. Sure it handles well, gets good fuel efficiency and is reliable but it was a terrible car to drive. The seats were terrible, though this was the base trim V6, I don't know if the other trims are any better. The interior is very bland and plastic. The terrible seats are made worse by the ride, which is very firm and not smooth. My other complaint would be throttle and brake response. Honda apparently couldn't make an electronically controlled car have good throttle or brake response because it feels like the throttle or brakes are either on or off, not much in between. They are incredibly touchy. You could probably get used to it but I didn't after driving it for 3 hours on a road trip, much of which was through city traffic. It does not respond like any other car I have driven, including other FWD cars. |
Quote:
|
Check out a few of these video's too, so you can have a better idea of what to look for when you see them in person.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hvRlRj06A0s For $6000 the car should have no issues like this car does: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xuepVGnU3UM Every hose and rubber bit should be new, soft, and supple. The rear drive shaft boots should be very soft and no signs of cracks, the rear fuel hoses should all be new, etc. Otherwise it's a $4000 car in my opinion. I also would not pay $6000 for one of these unless I had a compression test and coolant leakdown test done by a third party mercedes mechanic (or Diesel mechanic at a Bosch centre). For two hours labour it could save you a real headache. |
Quote:
The throttle in an Accord is like any other new car. It's instant, and the brakes work fast too. You would get used to it after a week or so. The 300SD you have to floor it, wait a minute for the rpm to rise and the turbo to react, and then take your foot off the gas to keep it steady. It's a totally different experience to a naturally aspirated vehicle. Suspension is firm in all Hondas. It's not an old man's ride for sure. The 300SD leans terribly in corners and is awful to try to control if you break the back end loose in a turn. It's a 4000 pound beast after all, but it's not as terrible as a 4000 pound american car of the same vintage. |
People really have their rose coloured glasses on when it comes to these cars. I don't know what it is. Just old crappy cars people dump thousands of dollars into so they can live their dream of having a mercedes. I don't get it.
Well, don't worry. Like most people, you'll buy the car and then a year later you'll be trying to get rid of it when the honeymoon is over. |
My concern when buying old cars is that the PO or shop in this case just slops through the motions to get the car out the door. I prefer unpainted to recent paint. There is no telling the quality of the prep job. The shop is only getting ready to flip the car. $5k is a significant amount to pay for an old car especially when you don't buy from the owner.
I have friends that sell aftermarket bodyparts to shops. Cheap and quick is the objective. Have you ever compared the cosmetics of cars sitting on a tote-the-note lot to those at a shopping mall? The lots do whatever is necessary to make them LOOK good. The rule is "You buy, You own." I could fix a window or install a door panel. I can't/won't strip a crappy paint job or rebuild an engine unless the price was right. Take $3k & see if you get the car. Alternatively, see if you can drive it for a couple of days. A couple of days and you'll notice much. |
Quote:
The 300SD leans in corners but it is a luxury car and shouldn't be driven like it is something else. It's a very relaxed cruiser which an Accord is not. I have driven plenty of other new cars that don't have the same throttle response issues. I misspoke, the Accord I drove was the I4, so base Accord with no frills. That being said, I have driven other modern FWD cars that I felt were smoother to drive such as diesel VWs of different flavors and a Saturn SL1. My friend says that the brakes on his Accord are probably bitey because the pads are worn (though I drove it like 14 months ago) but also hates the throttle response. I'm just saying that if he is looking for a large luxury car, he should stick to that instead of an economy car with no character. |
Rob - Curios why you have/keep a W116 SD? Seems you don't like the car very much.
|
Years ago a friend bought a 78 CD on the west coast. Washington state.
He hired the local MB dealer to do a PPI. Went out there, drove it back here to Va. Two issues, the voltage regulator failed, that was replaced and he went on his way. Issue two, the primary fuel filter clogged a few times, he kept swapping it out until finally the system was cleaned out. Good luck and keep us posted. If you pick it up, I'd like to see it in person. |
Quote:
|
Quote:
Why are so many school buses and city buses powered by diesel engines, if the exhaust is toxic? I don't like to breath diesel fumes either, but I don't think that it is any more harmful than the exhaust from a gasoline engine. Diesel exhaust does not contain carbon monoxide, which is a real poison that can actually kill you or make you very sick, and CO gas IS produced by gasoline engines. |
$6k sounds reasonable IF there is NO RUST!!!
Rust is the killer. All the rest can be repaired / replaced, and and the vast majority by DIY. The looks are classic, and I think that these are going to become collectible in 5 - 10 years time. |
Quote:
I did laugh out loud to that one maybe all my senses have been dulled or maybe the ocean breeze makes the rose colored glasses that much rosier. As to a 100 hours. Unless your a mechanic by trade I'm guessing the pros cut that number significantly. I do a lot of DIY stuff to all sorts of things and I guess my first try takes at least 60% longer than my second. I expect to spend 1000-1500 a year on repairs and that number is more often lower than it is higher. I wouldn't call my love of the w116 300sd rose colored. I just base it on a real good ownership and driving experience. It's more about owning a cool old car than it is about owning a Mercedes for me. |
Quote:
In buffalo the neighborhood near the Peace bridge (canadian border crossing) has well document and long standing high prevalence of athsma and other lung problems. This is caused by the NOx and soot from trucks waiting for customs clearance. Geographic Clustering of Adult Asthma Hospitalization and Residential Exposure to Pollution at a United States |
not to mention... Working on a w116 is a breeze compared to working on any modern junk.
Room to reach in, Quality fasteners that don't turn to dust when you need to remove them and so on. Mercedes cars of this era were designed to be repaired rather than most of the jap crap that was designed to be easily assembled, used then junked. |
these are the last of the all hand built mercedes cars... they are a treasure...
|
Quote:
|
It looks nice. But before you plonk down 6 g's for this vehicle you need to inspect it closely in person. Rust is the #1 thing to look for. Unless its lived its entire life in the desert it has rust. And as Mercedes Benz service advisor told me many years ago now "on these car's it's not the rust you can see that you need to worry about".
The kick panel next to the drivers and passengers feet needs to be removed and you need to see what lies behind that. The carpets need to be removed and dampness/rust looked for beneath them. As do the rear seats. They are easy to pull out. Just a couple of clips at the base of the seat to push and the whole thing pulls straight out. Check beneath and beneath the rear carpets to see the condition of the floor. Take a screwdriver or something and poke up at the underside of the body, right beneath the drivers and passengers feet. Should be solid. The undercoating can harden over the decades and deteriorate allowing water to get in and attack the metal. If they screwdriver penetrates you have a problem. Not necessarily a terminal one but you need to check thoroughly. These are an awesome car, in verifiably good condition. In comparison a Honda Accord (bizarre that one would even compare the two) is a piece of crap. - Peter. |
| All times are GMT -4. The time now is 09:11 PM. |
Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2025, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0
Copyright 2024 Pelican Parts, LLC - Posts may be archived for display on the Peach Parts or Pelican Parts Website