716 manual transmission pin socket - which tool is correct?
 

hey all,

i have a manual transmission from a late model 240d bolted on my om617a engine. the bellhousing is a single piece of aluminum, for reference.

this is what the pin nut on the output flange looks like:

http://i.imgur.com/z8vEpDH.jpg

i see that pelican parts has two tools for these nuts, the sirtools m0029 and the sirtools m0032. they only list the compatible automatic transmissions so i am not sure which to purchase. i don't want to buy one blind since returns apparently are not accepted on tools.

anyone have any idea which will work with my transmission?

i was going to go with the drift punch method, but i don't feel like dropping the trans and would rather just buy the correct impact socket

thanks!

Its the same tool used for the Automatic.

My all aluminum 4spd manual output shaft seal was leaking so I had to remove the same nut to replace it. I tried the punch method and getting the peened over edge on the nut back up was a bear.

I ended up making a tool with my angle grinder out of a 30 mm 6 point deep hex socket I had. Didn't feel like ordering the tool for one use...

The 12 point replacement nut is the same auto/vs manual trans. Needed to borrow a 12 point 30mm socket to reinstall.

Torque is 75 ft/lbs on the nut. I used blue locktite instead of peening it.

Hope that helps!

yeah, but which automatic transmission? both tools are for different automatic transmissions, and there is no indication of the manual transmission compatability

i don't know if the flanges changed for the manuals at the same time they changed for the automatics? or really if the flanges ever changed.

i'm going to grind down a harbor freight socket and try to make it work but failing that i'm trying to figure out which tool i would have to order

If Pelican lists the mercedes tool number you can go to this site and enter the Tool Number and it will tell you the use of thel Tool.
STAR TekInfo

See post number 2 for a picture and the description just gives the chassis models and has output shaft.

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/355113-240d-manual-transmission-rear-seal-replacement.html

I used a pair of craftsman sockets welded together, and an angle grinder to make the pins. In a pinch you can make a tool pretty easily

I am not so sure everyone had a welder or even an angle grinder.

I have both of those but I have tried to aquire the tools I think I might need a head of time. I believe I have that output shaft socket. May be there is one for rent in:Tool Rental List
Tool Rental Master Member List - PeachParts Mercedes ShopForum

I have done this on other items that have similar slotted Nuts. Pick 2 of the slots that are opposite of each other. Center Punce the area between the threads and the slot. Take a small Drill bit and drill a hole through each center punched area. Very carfully take a sharp Chisel and put it over the drilled Hole and hammer the chisel gently throug and cut the Nut on each side.
Either the Nut will split or become loose enough to back off.

You do need to keep the Chisel and hole away from the threads on the shaft.

the point was that a welder and an angle grinder are two things easily aquired if need be, if the correct tool was hard to find.

I welded two sockets together because I needed to do it right then and I had two short sockets. The whole think could probably be made out of a single deepwell socket and a few minutes with an angle grinder if sourcing the tool was a problem or time was a factor. A modified impact socket would work perfectly

http://i1217.photobucket.com/albums/...orm2/001-2.jpg

looks a lot better than what i made last night but it worked:

http://i.imgur.com/S7v8HL1.jpg

definitely going to replace it witht he updated 12-point nut, though

while i have everyone's attention, re: the 716.xxx transmission, i was wondering how i replace the seal on the rear of the transmission? mine isn't leaking but i plan on replacing the mercedes flange with a more traditional 1310 u joint output flange.

it wasn't clear to me while i was under the car last night how to pull the seal without destroying it.

are the measurements of that seal documented?

thanks

It is nearly impossible to pull the seal without damaging it.

There may or man not be a number on the Seal. See if you can find the Number before you pull the Seal.

There is a bunch of types of Seal Pullers that may or may not work easly and some get away with using a Screwdriver.

You can do an image google search for Seal Pullers and you can see pics of what they look like.

If you can cross reference the Mercedes Seal part number to a typical name brand number you can go to the name Brand catalog and they will have dimensions.
But, if you are changing the type of Yoke you simply need to machine the sealing area on the Yoke to the same size as the Sealing area on the Mercedes.

Re: Seal
 

I had a tough time locating the proper seal for the yoke. None of the usual vendors carry it (plenty for the auto trans thought). The auto yoke seal is a different size as the outer diameter of the case is bigger, though the yoke auto vs manual in my case were identical.

Fortunately, my OEM seal had the dimensions on it.

40x55x10mm

Bought my replacement from here:

http://www.amazon.com/Metric-Spring-Loaded-Rotary-40x55x10mm/dp/B007PP1TSK/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1427902649&sr=8-2&keywords=Car+Auto+Metric+Spring+Loaded+Rotary+Shaft+Oil+Seal+40x55x10mm

Fits and works great.

sweet! 55mm x 40mm is consistent with the dimensions i found on some English parts supplier, and consistent with my measurements with dial calipers as well.

yeah i totally wrecked the seal with my screwdriver pulling it out, but the part number is intact, so that's something.

machining the new yoke to match the mercedes yoke diameter is a great idea.