Not that I know of. Shaft seals going out will cause blue smoke out the exhaust, oil consumption and eventually, engine runaway. Other gaskets (if there any) leaking boost would probably make an audible hissing noise.

You could test with soapy water.

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Lots of diesel W126s in the past
Current: 1991 Toyota 4Runner with an OM603

As far as testing boost, basically through the boost gauge and seat of pants, my boost gauge originally connected to intake manifold post intercooler and plumbing. I get 5 psi there. I then moved the gauge source to the turbo pressure line at the turbo itself, same results 5psi max. the car feels a little doggy and it it not reading the same static measures that I have been using for years to monitor overall running health of the engine, flat road, 80mph 3100 rpm, 7psi boost, 650F EGT

Currently I'm 80mph, 3100 rpm, 4psi boost and 750F EGT. From this I can tell that the boost is down and the fuel (extra due to lack of boost) is slightly increasing my EGT's.

as far as listening to it, I can hear a boost whistle as the turbine spins up, as it maxes out at 5psi I hear a wooshing noise as if air is escaping but not venting to atmosphere more like bypassing the wastegate if tha makes sense. I do not see any signs of external leaking at the turbo assembly, no signs of soot on the outer case anywhere, nor at the downpipe, when I had the cat removed, while idling and on the lift we checked for exhaust leaks and could not find any so, I'm at a loss other than possibly the wastgate spring either very weak or possibly broken allowing the wastegate to stay open.

Other suggestions?

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Stable Mates:
1987 300TD 310K mi (Hans)
2008 Jeep Grand Cherokee OM642 165k mi (Benzrokee)

What setup do you have for EGT/boost?

I'd like to get that set up on my OM603.

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RenaissanceMan Labs: where the future is being made today.

Garage:

2017 Chevy Colorado Diesel (nanny state emissions)
2005 Volvo S40 T5 AWD, 77k
1987 Mercedes-Benz 300D turbodiesel, 4 sp auto, 156k - 28.7 mpg
1996 Tracker 4x4, 2 door, 16v, 3 sp auto. 113k - 28.6 mpg

WARNING: this post may contain dangerous free thinking.

Heh 750F, wish mine ran that cool....


Get a silicone coupler the size of the turbo inlet and connect it to a PVC pipe of appropriate size with a end cap. In the end cap drill/tap/jbweld a compressed air disconnect and then hook that up to your air compressor. Something like one of these guys : https://www.google.com/search?q=testing+boost+air+compressor&espv=2&biw=2557&bih=1342&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ei=HQk4VYvlG6basATamIDwAw&ved=0CAgQ_AUoAw&dpr=1

Then use soapy water to determine where your air leaks are. I have found that they tend to be in the least likely, hardest to get at places. Have you tested your MBC? I had a cheapo one that the ball ended up getting stuck in a place and stayed open the whole time.

Got pics of your IC setup? I am always trying to find a better solution than what I have. Feel free to post it here as well : http://www.superturbodiesel.com/std/showthread.php?tid=4633

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http://superturbodiesel.com/images/sig.04.10.jpg
1995 E420 Schwarz
1995 E300 Weiss
#1987 300D Sturmmachine
#1991 300D Nearly Perfect
#1994 E320 Cabriolet
#1995 E320 Touring
#1985 300D Sedan
OBK #42

I know I posted details regarding the set-up here years ago, search under my name and you should find the details. Basically from memory I have a K1 EGT probe mounted in the #1 cyl test port, that is wired to a VDO EGT Temp gauge. Boost is a simple VDO boost gauge normally plumbed to a port on the intake manifold. I also run an intercooler and all of the associated plumbing. This has served to drop EGT's by between 150-200 degrees since installed, but know may be leaking

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Stable Mates:
1987 300TD 310K mi (Hans)
2008 Jeep Grand Cherokee OM642 165k mi (Benzrokee)

Hey Winmut,
I like the idea and an interesting approach. I had fed compressed air via the boost gauge port on the intake and checked for leaks that way, but the approach you highlighted is more contained so it should be better. I'll give it a shot.

Here's a few pics of the IC, it's a small 9"x9" aluminum unit, but compact, and fairly efficient given my 150-200 deg drop in EGT. I never measured pre/post IC intake charge temp, as the main reason for the IC was to lower EGT's for the sake of saving the #14 head....it gave me another 10 years before I finally replaced the head with a #17 unit, all to deal with a persistent oil leak at #1 cyl.

My intention was to add an IC without any sheetmetal cutting, and plumb it in such a way, that should I or anyone else want to return it to stock you could and would never know it once had an IC. I also long ago deleted the mechanical fan and shroud for an electric setup, and this provided all the space I needed for a short run of tubing to the IC and back

[IMG][/IMG]

[IMG][/IMG]

[IMG][/IMG]

[IMG][/IMG]

__________________
Stable Mates:
1987 300TD 310K mi (Hans)
2008 Jeep Grand Cherokee OM642 165k mi (Benzrokee)

So after taking Winmutt's suggestion to redouble my effort in finding plumbing leaks, I found one on the pressure side, one of the hard plastic lines was slip underneath in the Y connector, and clearly a lot of air was escaping there on closer inspection.

Also found an exhaust leak in the flex coupler on the down pipe, it's right at the base of where the stainless mesh and the pipe join. About a 1 in tear along the perimeter.

Has anyone successfully repaired or replaced the exhaust flex coupler? I'd like to finish all of the repairs before I head out to test for success

TIA

__________________
Stable Mates:
1987 300TD 310K mi (Hans)
2008 Jeep Grand Cherokee OM642 165k mi (Benzrokee)

Oh wow, what size piping is that? That is a very small intercooler, I have to wonder what the PSI drop is in your setup. Does that muffler flex stuff actually hold air?

I did this with 3" piping for under $300 including the modifying of the intake.

http://www.superturbodiesel.com/std/showthread.php?tid=1235&pid=53336#pid53336

__________________
http://superturbodiesel.com/images/sig.04.10.jpg
1995 E420 Schwarz
1995 E300 Weiss
#1987 300D Sturmmachine
#1991 300D Nearly Perfect
#1994 E320 Cabriolet
#1995 E320 Touring
#1985 300D Sedan
OBK #42

If you need a complete turbo mounted on a manifold let me know. It produced good boost the day i drove the car here on a blown head gasket.

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Cheers!
Scott McPhee

1987 300D

Dear all:
Thanks for the support throughout and the suggestions, I have boost finally restored back to 15psi yippie and my EGT's are back down to normal!

The cause...unknown specifically and likely a combination of things that I check and fixed and may serve as a guide for others:

Exhaust, exhaust, exhaust, check it well, a combination of problems from the exhaust system can contribute to lower than normal boost. In my case two factors came into play:
1, excessive backpressure from a clogged CAT, after nearly 300k miles wht do you expect, deal with it accordingly gut, bypass or replace CAT.
2. Not enough backpressure, yeah sounds wierd, but it also turns out that my flex coupler was leaking really badly, and I would surmise that being so close to the Turbo exhaust outlet, too much flow may actually hurt boost

Intake plumbing
found a small hard plastic line that was split, leaking, check your plumbing for leaks with compressed air, winmutt provided a good link to this earlier.

In the end she is finally fixed, sounds more like a singer sewing machine than a cummins now and all is right in the diesel world, now if I could only figure out the e320 and it's darned ASR problem, I'd be right in this world.

__________________
Stable Mates:
1987 300TD 310K mi (Hans)
2008 Jeep Grand Cherokee OM642 165k mi (Benzrokee)