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  #16  
Old 05-21-2015, 01:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stretch View Post
Well that's it then - design fault!

Are there similar problems with W201s and W124s?
No, its usually the ball joint that gives out on the W201 and W124 due to wear, age and sometimes rust. The W202 C class and W208 CLK built during MB's rusty era (late 90s early 2000s) suffer similar control failures as the W210


The inside of the the control arm is always more rusty than the outside making it damn near impossible to inspect. I think water, dirty and salt get trapped inside the outer end of the control arm. All the failures are concentrated in the northeast (NJ, CT, NY, MA, OH).

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  #17  
Old 05-21-2015, 01:23 PM
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Originally Posted by vstech View Post
Yup... weld attracts the rust... metal fails at the weld. I wonder if an aluminum alternative exists?
This doesn't make any sense. Welds are coated just as the rest of the part is, so it isn't an issue of bare metal. And welds are stronger than the material surrounding it.

Metal fails NEAR the weld, as it did in this situation.
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  #18  
Old 05-21-2015, 01:59 PM
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On my 124 control arms, there is a drain hole at the end. Is there a drain hole in these control arms?
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  #19  
Old 05-21-2015, 02:43 PM
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Best preventative is to mix up some hot grease and oil and spray into closed cavities. If for example a part is fabricated by welding and not coated quickly.Existing rust that forms locally after welding gets coated over and continues to oxidize if oxygen can reach it. Nothing I can really think of stops existing rust or restored the unrusted strength other than replacement. At the same time petroleum products really seem to slow it down. Thats if they can reach and saturate the rust. The protective shield they present blocks oxygen or the vast majority of exposure to it.

We scrapped an excellent later 126 gas car simply because the rust had gotten too established in the suspension mounts etc. The car was a fairly low milage example as well. Actually the body and interior in general still looked really great.
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  #20  
Old 05-21-2015, 03:07 PM
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lmao @ everyone jumping all over the OP as if MB still makes cars to the standards of quality they did in the 1950s
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  #21  
Old 05-21-2015, 03:54 PM
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In the old days ( pre 80's ) car bodies rusted rapidly, engines / transmissions didn't last very long. Frames sort of lived only due to their thickness.

Now cars last much longer and parts the previously didn't fail are now wearing out. Kind of like since people live longer, all sorts of new illnesses have popped up in old age.

If the lower ball joint is seizing up, it will translate a bending load to the control arm. Since the end of the arm is a great stress riser, it will break there.

Grab the ball joint stem with pliers and give it a flex, it should move with some resistance but not a struggle.
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  #22  
Old 05-21-2015, 06:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by martureo View Post
This doesn't make any sense. Welds are coated just as the rest of the part is, so it isn't an issue of bare metal. And welds are stronger than the material surrounding it.

Metal fails NEAR the weld, as it did in this situation.
Agreed, I wasn't saying the weld fails, I was saying the metal near it fails. Apparently im not good with expressing my thoughts.
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  #23  
Old 05-21-2015, 06:48 PM
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Originally Posted by martureo View Post
This doesn't make any sense. Welds are coated just as the rest of the part is, so it isn't an issue of bare metal. And welds are stronger than the material surrounding it.

Metal fails NEAR the weld, as it did in this situation.

Metal oxidizes when welding starting rust.

Paint usually does not flow so well into the groove between the metal and weld bead.

Welds are often rougher than sheet steel so paint does not cover so well.

17 year old car in a snow / salt area. Don't blame the manufacturer, things wear out.
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  #24  
Old 05-21-2015, 07:28 PM
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The problem IS with the design. But not just the W210, but also other modern cars, have had everything lightened up. On the W210 (we own one) the poor spring perch is a well known fault. Another is the beam that runs across under and near front of the engine. It is very lightweight and formed out of sheet metal. The plastic undercovers trap water and the beam sits in it. I had corrosion on that beam. Under their Goodwill program, MBCanada had the beam replaced for me (Several thousand $$ job)

Those control arms with corrosion on inside, likely look perfectly OK on outside. Ours (and the rest of the car) get annual external rust treatment. But inside, metal may be getting thinner and thinner. Eventually you hit a bump and it fails. When designing mechanical parts, designers should provide metal thickness required by design+safety factor+corrosion allowance. Perhaps they didn't think the metal would corrode from inside where it is not exposed to environment?

We have discussed W123 rear control arms before. I have one that is partly corroded. I drilled a few holes near top and sprayed in Fluid Film and then installed removable plugs in holes. Still OK but always a concern.

Sounds like our E320 control arms may need same internal attention?

On the positive side, after 17 years, we haven't had a failure on W210 suspension. Fingers crossed!
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  #25  
Old 05-21-2015, 07:40 PM
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Originally Posted by Maxbumpo View Post
MB has done recalls for failing control arms in the past (R107 for instance).
There apparently never was a recall as such for the 107s, but there was an agreement to repair subframe 107s delivered to USA (and Canada).

If that is what you are referring to, it seems it was for the control arm subframe mount, not the control arm itself.

At this stage, without large numbers of control arm failures, MB would not likely issue a recall unless forced to.
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  #26  
Old 05-21-2015, 07:50 PM
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W210 spring perches........control arm failures.......what's next? Geeesh!

Both these item/areas could have been constructed with air-frame style machined aluminum, right?
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  #27  
Old 05-21-2015, 08:06 PM
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Originally Posted by blk90s13 View Post
Car is a NJ car all it life not much rust on body 205k miles


tie rods is only thing was replaces since we owned the car about 60k miles ago drove fine
no weird noises or clunks, welds did fail.

How do you maintain a control arm ? you replace it ? I always thought bushing gets changed in and out but not the control arm its self !
Are you able to access the repair and replacement parts history of your car before you bought it? That information may prove valuable to you with the investigation, forensically speaking that is.

Quote:
Originally Posted by 97 SL320 View Post
In the old days ( pre 80's ) car bodies rusted rapidly, engines / transmissions didn't last very long. Frames sort of lived only due to their thickness.

Now cars last much longer and parts the previously didn't fail are now wearing out. Kind of like since people live longer, all sorts of new illnesses have popped up in old age.

If the lower ball joint is seizing up, it will translate a bending load to the control arm. Since the end of the arm is a great stress riser, it will break there.

Grab the ball joint stem with pliers and give it a flex, it should move with some resistance but not a struggle.
Good input, 97SL320.

I thought there'd be related parts culpabilities to examine, that POSSIBLY could be related to a control-arm failure.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Skid Row Joe View Post
Not sure the failure wasn't because of deferred maintenance from looking at the pics?

What are all the stats on the car? Miles? Front end parts (shocks) etc. replaced? Worn/aged bushings not replaced? Lower ball-joints replaced? Steering parts/bushings aged? Rust issue(s), esp. front spring perches?
..........Qs that may be helpful in forensically finding POSSIBLE causation here........
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  #28  
Old 05-21-2015, 09:35 PM
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Originally Posted by Skid Row Joe View Post
W210 spring perches........control arm failures.......what's next? Geeesh!

Both these item/areas could have been constructed with air-frame style machined aluminum, right?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Skid Row Joe View Post

One more time; the W210 I bought is NOT rusting out.

To recap: They do not all rust out, and that's a fact. Regardless where it might get driven. That's just foolish to try to make ppl believe.
Thats an interesting point of view there.
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  #29  
Old 05-21-2015, 10:14 PM
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Should I be replacing both control arms ? I am doing both springs but is it necessary to do a pair of control arms as well ?
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  #30  
Old 05-21-2015, 10:23 PM
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Originally Posted by blk90s13 View Post
Should I be replacing both control arms ? I am doing both springs but is it necessary to do a pair of control arms as well ?
I doubt that it is necessary to do both. But if one failed, perhaps other will not be far behind. If it was my car, I would do both.

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