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  #1  
Old 05-19-2015, 04:28 PM
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95E300D

I need to replace the timing device cam is worn. Have read one thread I am kind of confused about: How to replace the (Injection Pump Timing device) Stroke Curve on a bad vacuum pump 12/10/2006.

How did he get from TDC to the correct timing or am I missing something??

The vacuum pump is pretty new and works fine except the cam roller is gaulded and I want to replace it. Does anyone have the size I need and where to purchase. I saw a post on here but cannot find it. I have read every post on vacuum pumps and there are a lot. I still do not know what size the cam roller is. It should be noted that it is a roller not a bearing on a 606.910 vacuum pump. It seems to me that the information must be somewhere but it is not in the many pages I read and nothing on the 606.910 and the 606.910 is not the same as the 601, 602, 603 as it states in what I read the 606.910 is a cam roller not a bearing.

Any gotchas I should look out for? Any tools I need besides the timing lock and centering sleeve.


Last edited by JRImrie; 05-19-2015 at 10:15 PM. Reason: More info and
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  #2  
Old 05-19-2015, 05:27 PM
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The bolt is left hand threaded (righty loosey lefty tightey).
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both my kids cars went to junkyard in 2023
2008 ML320 CDI (Older son’s DD) fatal transmission failure, water soaked/fried rear SAM, numerous other issues, just too far gone to save (165k miles)
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  #3  
Old 05-20-2015, 12:42 PM
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Have a new O-ring for the injection pump (seal where it goes into engine block) and the proper injection pump locking tool. You'll also need to remove the timing chain tensioner, so you'll need a new seal for that. New gasket for the vacuum pump.

Vacuum pump roller wheel: I don't think you can purchase that separately. If the old pump has the crimped on outer cover and not the new version that has torx screws, then you really need a new pump. Try taking the vacuum pump to a machine shop to see if they can remove the wheel and either clean it up or make a new wheel.
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'87 124.193 (300TD) "White Whale", ~392k miles, 3.5l IP fitted
'95 124.131 (E300) "Sapphire", 380k miles
'73 Balboa 20 "Sanctification"
Charleston SC
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Old 05-21-2015, 02:22 PM
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I do not know about removing the tensioner when you unbolt the sprocket it should give you plenty of slack, what I read is remove it in the procedure and experience tells me to be rready. I'll get a seal just in case.
All I read says the roller can be replaced with a 626-2Z precision deep groove 6 ball bearing grade 50. I assume grade 50 means ABEC 5 but the bearing is wider than the roller. My pump is the new version and is fairly new but the roller and the timing device are in bad shape.
Thanks for your input
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  #5  
Old 05-22-2015, 09:25 AM
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Which sprocket are you talking about? Are you reading the procedures in the factory service manual?
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M. Dillon
'87 124.193 (300TD) "White Whale", ~392k miles, 3.5l IP fitted
'95 124.131 (E300) "Sapphire", 380k miles
'73 Balboa 20 "Sanctification"
Charleston SC
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  #6  
Old 05-22-2015, 10:34 AM
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E300D

Max,

The camshaft gear using FSM 7.1-8014 for 601, 602, 603 it is more complete than the 606.910 procedure and essentially the same. I have the 606.910 procedure but it is sketchy at best.
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Old 05-22-2015, 10:45 AM
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I don't think you can remove the camshaft gear without removing the chain tensioner. Well, maybe you can get it off, but I'll bet you a donut that you sure won't be able to get it back on!
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Respectfully,
/s/
M. Dillon
'87 124.193 (300TD) "White Whale", ~392k miles, 3.5l IP fitted
'95 124.131 (E300) "Sapphire", 380k miles
'73 Balboa 20 "Sanctification"
Charleston SC
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  #8  
Old 05-22-2015, 03:20 PM
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Max,

That's why I said I'll be ready what I read on the forum says yes the procedure says to remove it. That is probably what I'll do remove it.

I am not quite sure how you know the timing device is on correctly the procedure just says install the injection timer.
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Old 05-22-2015, 04:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JRImrie View Post
Max,

That's why I said I'll be ready what I read on the forum says yes the procedure says to remove it. That is probably what I'll do remove it.

I am not quite sure how you know the timing device is on correctly the procedure just says install the injection timer.
The pump is splined - meaning it can be fit into the timer in different positions.
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  #10  
Old 05-22-2015, 05:13 PM
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Zulfigar,

Precisely that's why I asked. It would have been nice if there were some kind of mark on the IP. I guess the timing chain can only allow it to be put on correctly. I sure do not like to guess it is very very similar to assuming, Ha, Ha, really not funny its a lot of work to do over.
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  #11  
Old 07-04-2015, 09:15 AM
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95 E300D

I am changing the timing device as the ramp is damaged as is the vacuum pump roller. Successfully removed timing device and replaced. Locked pump with locking tool and reinstalled. Timing mark at 14.5 degrees ATDC installed pump rotated the engine back to 14.5 degrees ATDC to check timing the tang is not showing. I followed the procedure to the letter with the exception of not using a timing basket. Any ideas what I did wrong? Absolutely sure timing tang was locked in place and timing was at 14.5 degrees ATDC. I am completely out of ideas. How should I proceed.
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  #12  
Old 07-04-2015, 02:00 PM
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in this condition - what is the mark on the crank pulley when the tang shows up in the pump window?.
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1995 E300D - The original humming machine (consumed by Flood 2017)
2000 E320 - The evolution (consumed by flood 2017)
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  #13  
Old 07-04-2015, 05:53 PM
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E300D

I got it; the tang was off about 8 degrees. The lock down tool must have slipped a bit. The one I have is a bit short and I reinstalled the IP a little more carefully and I am going to add a bit more to the end of the tool. Everything is right where it belongs now. Thanks for your reply.

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