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Is it possible that he is getting air in the lines from the old style hand crank fuel primer?
Just an observation: looks like a Junkyard IP How much fuel in your tank? |
has about 1/2 a tank left.
The hand pump is a bit leaky for sure. I should probably replace it. it does not leak while driving.. but does leak when manually pumping. |
Leaking while pumping, usually means leaks AIR into the fuel system while driving...
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so should i replace this hand pump? (or is there some type of resealing i should do?)
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also... i noticed in the plastic filter there are air bubbles at the top of the filter. Is this normal? (picture on page 2 shows the air bubble)
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replace it. |
A Bubble in the clear filter is normal
Updated pump is black. Do the test of slightly cracking the lines on the injectors one at a time and see if you notice any difference. Someone posted how to do it. |
Never hurts to replace the old style lift pumps with the new style, but if you tightened the white knob after priming, it should not leak while driving. Is your idle set too low? What is it at? Post a youtube video.
Replace your cigar hose with a temporary section of 1/4" i.d. clear vinyl line (soak ends in hot water and stretch over nipples, no clamps needed). There should be no bubbles there at any time, running or not (check after sitting over night). Does your prefilter have a brass support sleeve like the bottom one in pic? Ones without it are problematic and could leak at the hose connections due to insufficient rigidity. http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c3...716_143807.jpg |
in the pictures (one page2) my filters do not have the brass tips.
Will post a video soon of starting to see if anything sounds unordinary at idle. Idle speed is at max. Replacing the cigar hose and the fuel inlet hose is something i just ordered. Going to crack the injectors lines now one at a time and will report back what happens. |
Have you used the FSM specs to adjust the lengths on the pieces of your throttle linkage ?
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ok just cracked each injector line individually....
on each line there was a significant drop in RPM...(good sign?) there was not one injector that made the shaking stop though. I can feel the vibrations in the car especially in the steering wheel, the pedals etc... Once the car is warm.. the vibration is not too bad as long as the car is at max idle speed. As soon as the idle speed drops to around 1/2.. the car starts to gurgle and vibrate like crazy. I'll post a video in a minute to illustrate. https://youtu.be/qNGM_tjwYG0 look at the radiator fan and wiper fluid bottle when i lower the idle adjust a couple of clicks from max to close to max. the hissing noise are the throttle linkages vibrating at the top.. they need to be greased... but if i hold them with my hand to stop the vibration that hissing goes away. |
Equal drop in rpms' is good.... what one would expect from a normal engine... but with 120 in one cylinder should show a difference compared to the other cylinders since it should not be putting out nearly the same power as those with proper compression...
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they all seemed to have somewhat similar drops in rpm. The point i guess i was trying to make was that turning off any one cylinder did not stop any shaking.
Here is a video i took of a warm engine. You will hear and see the car... at first this is what it sounds like when the engine is all warmed up in the car and i am just sitting at idle. Second you will see/hear what it sounds like when i adjust the idle knob down a little bit. Look at the oscillating steering wheel (it is shaking really violently... you can also look at the cruise control arm.) It is actually worse than it looks in the video ( my arms are acting as a dampener). When i turn down the idle knob, and it shakes violently... this is how it feels when the engine is cold even with the idle knob totally turned to max. Would bad mounts cause this much shaking at idle? https://youtu.be/BISOV92xC7o |
Did you say how old and what shape your engine mounts are ?
Is your car supposed to have an engine ' shock ' up at the top to the frame ? |
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