83 300sd front left side shake. - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

Mrman7627 · #1 08-01-2015, 09:30 PM

Hello everyone! I need help with my front end wobbling. You see around the speeds of 35-45 my front left side shakes. Also if i take and loosen or tighten the bolts on the tire the tire can noticeably move a little left to right "as in left to right when im facing the tire". not a whole lot but a little and you feel a small clunk. It shakes my steering wheel but VERY little when it shakes when driving. It stops when i Brake. I assumed wheel bearings. I replaced the wheel bearings "pressing everything in right lubed bearings and what not" that did VERY little. I then noticed my shock was loose VERY loose I tightened it back up and that helped a little it seems but not a lot. I was thinking perhaps another part of the suspension was loose? Or maybe the spindle or knuckle needed to be replaced? The spindle didnt seem to have and wear on it. I honestly don't have much of a clue on what to do! My only to thoughts are maybe i botched the bearing replacement but that seems unlikely cause when the cars jacked up and the wheel is on i cant move the wheel only a large amount of forced seems to make it move left to right. Or the suspension pieces that connect to the part that holds the rotor and hub and caliper and what not is loose or one of the joints is shot. One of the joints close to the caliper did seem to be a little old. Sorry i didnt think to take pictures and now its dark I can get pictures tomorrow of the pieces im talking about any help or thoughts would be GREATLY appreciated. This forum has helped me with A LOT so far I really appreciate it!!!!

Whiskeydan · #2 08-01-2015, 09:46 PM

Typical wear items on your car are the lower ball joints, caster/guide rod bushings and upper ball joints. In that order. Any/all can make for a violent front end shake.

Mrman7627 · #3 08-01-2015, 09:49 PM

This is GREAT information!!!!!! The lower ball joint was the one that was wiggling a lot I tried tightening it but the bolt just spun.

toomany MBZ · #4 08-02-2015, 08:07 AM

The bolt has been set, or should have been and now you're simply spinning the ball, I believe this is normal.

Is the boot torn?

If so, replace the ball joint.

Junkman · #5 08-02-2015, 09:04 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mrman7627

This is GREAT information!!!!!! The lower ball joint was the one that was wiggling a lot I tried tightening it but the bolt just spun.

If you're referring to the ball spinning, the FSM mentions a self made tool that fits between the nut and the ball joint. This puts pressure on the joint allowing the nut to tighten. I just used a 18V impact gun and it snugged enough to where it could be properly torqued.

I would replace all of the wear items on both side if you have to get into the ball joints. You'll need to remove the spring. Once the spring is out, the other stuff is easy. The hardest part was figuring out how to get the LCA inner bushings installed. It was pretty much a pita & I'll at least price the complete LCA the next time. Of course, the 2nd time around is always easier.

Your car will steer like new if you do everything at once and you won't have to mess with it again for many miles. Parts cost to do both sides is <$500 for everything.

vstech · #6 08-02-2015, 09:08 AM

Lower ball joint should not wiggle...

The tire is likely shot. Put your spare tire on the front and see if the vibration is gone.
If so, you now need to fix all the issues that wore out the tire...
Like the shock, the ball joint, etc.

Junkman · #7 08-02-2015, 09:19 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by vstech

Lower ball joint should not wiggle...

True. New they sometimes need a tool for leverage to move them. They may spin when installing the nut.

Mrman7627 · #8 08-02-2015, 02:09 PM

You are all EXTREMELY helpful. The lower ball joint does wiggle pretty easily. Sense getting this car I've replaced a lot and most of the parts seem original "all German writing OLD OLD info stickers if present at all" so I wouldn't be surprised if replacement was needed. The upper areas of the suspension system seem okay the rubber parts are not torn except on that one lower ball joint that wiggles. I will switch out the tire tonight to see what that does. And I priced out how much it would cost to replace it all and it's not bad at all saw a 24 piece kit on ebay for 360. Thanks for the advice everyone this forums just full of helpful knowledgeable people.

vstech · #9 08-03-2015, 04:05 AM

If you change te ball joints and use eBay cheap junk, you will be doing it again soon...

Maxbumpo · #10 08-03-2015, 09:18 AM

In general, to test for loose steering components while the car is resting on the ground, push/pull on the tire at the 3 o'clock and the 9 o'clock position. Push/pull on the top of the wheel (12 o'clock) to check for bearing play, again while the car is resting on the ground.

I suspect you have problems in the steering tie rod joints and maybe also in the steering idler arm.

Some have already said that all of the wear components should be replaced, and I agree with this. Make it all right at once, or whichever worn out component is left behind may either (1) fail completely which may cause you to crash the car or (2) wear out the new parts faster than normal. It is expensive in the short run to do it all at once, but usually far cheaper in the long run.

Junkman · #11 08-03-2015, 09:53 AM

I'll do one side at a time when I get into the SD front end. ie remove parts including the spring. Relieve spring compressor tension so loaded spring isn't sitting around. Replace parts. Reinstall spring. Get all buttoned up and move to the other side.

I'll price the LCA with bushings and decide whether fighting bushings and ball joints is worth the savings. My local indy has a fancy ball joint tool made specifically for these cars. I'd like to buy his tool set when he retires.

Note the caution repeated in other threads to only use Lemforder or OE parts. Having an extra eccentric bolt is a good idea in case you have to cut one out. You could try turning the camber adjustment before ordering. If it adjusts easily, no need for the extra eccentric bolt. Mark the position so you have a starting point and have a chance of driving to the front end machine.

Whiskeydan · #12 08-03-2015, 10:15 AM

No need to remove the spring to replace upper or lower ball joints. Onlt time the spring as to come out is to replace the LCA bushing or the small guide rod bushing that sits under the spring. Fortunately, those are the last to fail.

toomany MBZ · #13 08-03-2015, 08:09 PM

The FSM calls for the LCA to be removed to replace the lower ball joint.
Meaning remove the spring.
That being said, my local shop swapped it out in situ.

Mrman7627 · #14 08-12-2015, 02:12 PM

Update. Wiggled tire with lug wrench with tire and ground and the parts that were bad were the tie rod ends on my driver side. Both wiggle freely. Problem is only one of the nuts out of the two came loose. Here is a pic from my Facebook of the nut I am talking about. It just spins so I don't know how to take it off I believe the nut itself may be stripped as the bolt doesn't turn with the nut. Does that mean I'm going to have to have the bolt cut off? https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=1048722448485840&set=a.302564469768312.79214.100000442856796&type=1&theater

mannys9130 · #15 08-13-2015, 01:38 AM

It may just be me....but I just get a meme of Bieber when I click the link. I'm not mad, no.

Are you talking about the but that holds the tie rod end in place to the knuckle or pitman arm? That threaded stud has an Allen socket in the tip, so you hold the stud still while you break the but loose.

You WILL need to hit the knuckle with a hammer to free the rust, and then spend time beating on a pickle fork to get those tie rod ends off.